Carl Beck

While the focus of this discussion so far is rightfully centered on the "Nissan Vintage Z Program", I think it is important to also keep the far larger picture in mind. The Nissan Vintage Z Program within the overall concept of "the Z Store", could really be viewed as the visible symbol of a far more extensive Corporate Strategy. The far large picture is one of a $200,000,000.00 Marketing Campaign originated and funded by Nissan Motors Ltd. I believe that one could correctly call it a "Brand Image - Marketing Campaign". (although I make no claim to be a Marketing Major). The Brand image that needed improvement, was the NISSAN Brand, here in its largest export market - the U.S.A. The Marketing Campaign itself, can most certainly be logically sub-divided into the smaller components of Market Research, Public Relations, Event Organization, Corporate Communications, Sales and Advertising for the purposes of discussion, but we shouldn't view the tail (advertising) as wagging the dog (Marketing) nor its owner (Nissan Motors Ltd). With Nissan Motors Ltd. some $12B in the red in 1996, top management at Nissan Motors Ltd. underwent significant change. Mr. Hanawa was handed the reigns of a major corporation headed at high speed toward the cliff of bankruptcy. The question was; could he turn it around soon enough to avert disaster? Taking the leadership position as President, Nissan Motors Ltd., Mr. Hanawa knew he needed the help of a financially strong partner to save Nissan, and the process of making Nissan Motors Ltd. look a little more attractive to potential suitors began. It was Mr. Hanawa that made the decision to enhance the Nissan Brand, by returning to Nissan's heritage in order to reestablish the connection in the consumers minds - between the glory days of DATSUN here in the U.S.A. and it's current Brand Name - Nissan. Glory Days??.... Yes the days of rapid growth, high profit margins and #1 or #2 Import Sales Positions. While the concept of "the Z Store" itself - ie. repurchasing, remanufacturing and reselling Classic and later model used Z Cars is said to have been the brainchild of Bob Thomas, President NMC USA, it would be a grave mistake to think that he would have reintroduced both the DATSUN brand name, and the image of Mr. K without the specific direction to do so, from his boss in Japan, Mr. Hanawa. Mr. Hanawa's willingness to reconnect Nissan Motors Ltd. with its Datsun/Katayama heritage in the USA was a stark turnaround of 20 years of corporate banishment and a very gutsy move. That was followed by the beginning of an all but complete redesign of Nissan's automobile offerings at a time when funds for such projects were in very limited supply. While Mr. Ghosn got to write the book after the fact, and hold center stage as the beginnings of Nissan's new models hit the market - - as far as I can see it was Mr. Hanawa's leadership and quick action that really saved Nissan Motors Ltd. So as a part of Nissan Corporate History, and its place in the history of the automobile industry, when you see a Nissan Vintage Z - that symbol should invoke thoughts of a far more comprehensive strategy to save a dying giant. As Datsun Enthusiasts here in the USA, we should also say a prayer of thanks to Mr. Hanawa... he returned not only the Z Car to us, but restored the rightful place of honor that both DATSUN and Mr. Katayama deserved in Nissan's corporate history. FWIW, Carl B.

<b>Given a choice I'd take the one on the Left.</b> Sounds like you had a great time and I'm sure everyone else enjoyed seeing your GT-R and getting to hear it as well. The only thing that is more fun than owning these cars is sharing them with others. Getting to run them up to speed however comes in a close second... Hope someone took some video for you.... <img src=http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23218&d=1210952206> FWIW, Carl B.

Well actually a bit more than that - the measurement is taken across a small lip, which would raise the gauge a mm or so... If you put a bolt head between the top and the float it won't be sitting on the lip... Make a gauge out of aluminum stock - it will be easier to hold and more accurate... FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Filipe: You are doing a wonderful job on your Z - it is truly beautiful. You are also doing it in a part of the world where obtaining the needed/desired parts is most difficult. If you have found and purchased 500 New Old Stock (NOS) parts - you have now replaced about one third of the NOS parts that Nissan used on each of the Vintage Z's. Your English is nearly perfect. Many of the new parts you bought, you were able to buy because of the Vintage Z Program. Nissan worked with aftermarket suppliers to have OEM quality reproduction parts made for the Vintage Z Program, and for people like you and I to be able to buy. All the interior plastic panels, the seat upholstery, the diamond vinyl upholstery, decals, rubber bushings, sheetmetal replacements for the rear hatch threshold among many others. Nissan sent the engines to their engine remanufacturing facility so the VZ engines were rebuilt to OEM spec.'s. They sent the transmissions to their transmission rebuild facility for complete rebuild. The rear ends were also rebuilt. Likewise the complete brake system, clutch system, cooling system, exhaust system etc etc etc The VZ's received the same... If you had a Vintage Z, you would have one of the 38 cars completed during this very unique Program. When you are done, you will have a very beautifully completed 240-Z, and certainly very rare example in Europe. However you will have one of several hundred restored 240-Z's. I'm not criticizing your thoughts - only I believe you have a basic misunderstanding of the extent Nissan went to when they remanufactured the Vintage Z's. Many people also believe that they would rather have a Restored 240-Z, than one of the Vintage Z's. Everyone is entitled to own what they want. Many people would rather do the restoration/refresh/restromod themselves and that is wonderful as well. "Better" is a very subjective term. If you think your Z is better, then that is certainly true for you and many people would agree it is better for them as well. I believe that for the money paid - $35K to $40K a Vintage Z represents a better value today, and they will most likely represent higher values in the future. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes... that should do it... We all learn by doing - and/or - from others that have done it. I learn something here almost every day. Kim Blough is actually the guy that originally supplied many of the measurement years ago - he has a Z recycling facility in Idaho and is a wealth of knowledge... FWIW, Carl B.

From my notes: For 1.75" high fingers - the throw-out bearing sleeve should be 28mm. The Part Number is 30501-1C104 (about $18.00 suggested retail from Nissan). 28mm is the distance between the mounting shoulder under the release bearing itself and the flat surface on one of the "ears" where the "throw-out arm" fork rides on the collar itself. Did you say you already had one or two different throw-out bearing sleeves? If so, measure them and let me know what you find.. The ones I had on the workbench where are 28mm, 23mm and 16mm. Running a 280Z Pressure Plate - the 23mm left me with no clutch - the 28mm solved the problem. The 280Z Pressure Plate was 1.75" to the fingers.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Bob: Yes - as I said, the Dealers could order only the Key Wallets from Nissan if they wanted to... and many did. 80690-E8200 Fred however was smart enough to order the whole montie...80010-E4155 "Set-Cylinder Lock Key" applied up to 04/70. So he got the one sided keys, and the gas lid lock!! (along with everything else). Fred: Is your key wallet (HOLDER-KEY).. leather or vinyl? Picture looks like leather. The one I have is very much the same shape, size, construction - but it is vinyl. FWIW, Carl B.

From #8 above: Hi Moonpup: As I said above at Post #8 - the key wallets "COULD" be ordered from Nissan through the Datsun Parts Dept. OR they could be purchased in the after-market, from many promotional speciality companies by the Dealers. To the best of my knowledge - there are no 9999- numbers for the after-market key wallets, because they were not sold by the Dealers, but rather given away with the car. The Factory supplied parts had Factory Part Numbers.. The Dealers could buy and use either of the two. The Factory Supplied 8-Tracks had Factory Part Numbers, and the after-market 8-Tracks sold through Nissan USA and thus through the Authorized Dealers had 9999- Part Numbers. Customers could buy either of the two. Note the Factory "Authorized" Accessories in the 72 Brochure - all have 9999 Part Numbers. You will also see the 9999- Part Numbers on many of the items in the Datsun Competition Catalogs from Nissan USA. Meaning they are locally sourced, but Authorized by, and sold through, Nissan USA and their Authorized Dealers. FWIW, Carl B.

the Metallic Blue 240-Z's came with either white or black interiors in 72/73. The 73 was more an off-white, as they had to switch to flame retardent materials in 73. Datsun's color guides show Metallic Blue with white interiors, but a few did come though with Black interiors - usually at the first few months of production. (I know because I waited for a car with the white interior at the time). If the car had a black interior - it had black seats, door panels and vinyl trim. If the car had a white interior - it had white seats, door panels and vinyl trim. Nissan didn't mix the colors.. FWIW, Carl B.

If you are using "a 240mm Exedy clutch and disc" supplied by Motorsports - then I'd use the throw-out bearing sleeve that they recommend. UNLESS others have already found that Motorsports is wrong. If you are using an OEM Nissan 2+2 Pressure Plate - then I'd use the 2+2 throw-out bearing sleeve sourced from Nissan. Since you are using the adjustable slave cylinder from the Series I cars - you might have enough adjustment travel to make up for the 10mm differnce between the two anyway. I can tell you that the 2+2 sleeve, will NOT work with a 280Z/ZX pressure plate.. FWIW, Carl B. What is the exact height of the fingers on the Pressure Plate? FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Chris: Oh my! ... I guess that Nissan got their DATSUN logo wrong on the 1970 240-Z Sales Brochures. The key fob I pictured is metal and the Datsun logo is plastic.... It is a very authentic, period correct, after-market key fob and it looks like they used the correct DATSUN logo of the time. As for "authentic DATSUN" key fob's - - - I haven't seen any actually produced by Nissan. As far as I know, all of the key fobs that the local DATSUN Dealers gave away were after-market. The key wallets however could be ordered from Nissan, but most were less expensive when purchased from the local aftermarket suppliers and could be printed with the Dealers name, address and phone numbers. So far, I can't find anything printed, published by Nissan/Datsun that has the red circle in the Nissan/Datsun Logo surrounded by a larger white circle - as shown on the money clip. It would be closer to "correct" if they had left the large white circle off - and just put the smaller red circle with the word DATSUN The NISSAN logo always seems to have the word NISSAN larger than the red circle behind it - whereas that is not always the case with the various DATSUN logos used by, or approved by Nissan/Datsun. Indeed, when printed in black/white the DATSUN logo has the words "Product Of Nissan" used as the surround. FWIW, Carl B.

Black seats!!! - - - no no - - - the car has a white interior - -get the white seat upholstery... The Z looks great....keep at it and in no time all the little bugs will be worked out... then it will be time to drive it to Cleveland. FWIW, Carl B. 72 Metallic Blue 240Z with a WHITE interior

Yes. I posted this picture in another thread recently.. The throw-out bearing sleeve (collar) for the 280Z and ZX 2+2 is shorter than the sleeve for the 280Z/ZX, but longer than the original 240Z sleeve. The input shafts on all the Z / ZX transmissions 70-83 are the same length. As mentioned several times above, by several different people - you have to match the Pressure Plate to the Throw-out bearing sleeve. If you are using the 2+2 flywheel - you have to use the 2+2 Pressure Plate - and therefore the 2+2 Throw-out bearing sleeve. The difference between the Coupe and 2+2 Throw-out bearing sleeve is about 10mm. With 200 flywheel HP - the OEM Nissan Clutch for the 2+2 is plenty strong. FWIW, Carl B.

Just to make sure it is clear: Oshop is a brand name - it can be purchased in quarts or gallons at most Auto Body Paint Suppliers. I believe I've seen it at some of the Auto Parts Suppliers as well. Ospho is a diluted phosphoric acid solution (about 12% as I recall), ready to use right out of the container (you don't want to use straight phosphoric acid!!). Ospho is environmentally friendly - if washed down/diluted with lots of water (phosphate is used as a fertilizer). As Steve and others mentioned - if you apply a phosphoric acid solution to iron oxide, the iron oxide is chemically converted to iron phosphate, which is stable. The US Military has been using phosphoric acid solutions for 60+ years to control rust, and they have done extensive testing of thousands of products. The truth is they haven't found anything more effective at killing rust on metal surfaces. Also as mentioned, it prevents flash rust from forming for a brief period (days to a week or so in humid climates). I've been using Ospho for decades, it can be sprayed, brushed or poured on effected area's - if removed with water within a few minutes - it won't damage painted surfaces surrounding the rusted area. FWIW, Carl B.

A starter for a 240-Z will crank your L28 with no problem. Stock 240-Z starter will crank my L24 with 13:1 compression, and my L28 with 10:1 compression. If yours will not - you have some other problem. FWIW, Carl B.

Yes - it could have been Dealer Installed. AIR - it would have been the same system installed at the Factory - only with a 3 speed fan vs. a 4 speed fan (or was it 4 spd. vs 5spd?)... The Factory Systems used metal piping - and the older (240-Z) ARA/Fridgking units used rubber hoses... The Factory or Factory Type used the original vent/heater controls with no addition knob's added to the side.. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Dan: If you search google.com for "Key Wallet" you might see something that is close. The Nissan Dealers actually bought them in bulk and they could be either vinyl or leather. Some Dealers had their business names printed on them/others didn't. Here is one I bought a few years ago on E-Bay, it came with a complete lock-set and four original keys for a 71 Z. Also received one of the early key fob's. FWIW, Carl B.

14 BTDC should be a good point at which to start. On all the dyno runs I've seen a more of less stock L6 will lose HP with total timing much above 34 degrees (on todays "high octane gas 93). You can pull the distributor and take it to a good automotive ignition shop and have them check the timing curve. You always want to do this when you swap in a distributor from another application. Make sure your vacuum advance is working properly and that the distributor shaft is running true. (no bearing wobble etc). You want a timing curve that starts to ramp up around 1500 RPM and has the total advance all in by 3500 RPM. That will get you in the ball park with the S.U.'s. You can go to the junk yard (in some area's) and get a timing pointer off another L6, or you can make your own out of thin sheet aluminum. Then put the engine at TDC and set your pointer to the mark on the crank pulley. To drive every day - I'd put either an electronic distributor in, or replace the points with an electronic pickup. In todays world mechanical points are a PIA. If it's breaking up at 4500 to 5000 RPM you may be running a little lean... (if everything is fine as far as the ignition system goes). When you get to about 4000RPM start pulling the choke in - to richen the mixture. If it runs better you'll have an idea if it's carb's or ignition. Keep an eye on the condition of the spark plugs - pull a couple and check them after a clean run (not after stop and go driving). good luck, Carl

Hi Gus: Thanks for the video's and the update. Saving an original engine with 34K miles is well worth whatever time and money you have put into it. Now put some miles on it - 200 to 400 - to give the rings a chance to polish themselves and the cylinder bores....Fresh oil and filter - and it should be good to go for a couple hundred thousand more miles. FWIW, Carl B.

Hi Adam83: You would have to give us more to go on. Did you just rebuild this engine or does it have 120K + miles on it already? For the sake of discussion - I'm going to talk about a stock engine, in an 83 280ZX with 95K miles, that has had good care.. The truth is that there is very little that one can add to that engine, that will increase its performance. If I were spending my money I'd do it in this order: 1. have a good engine shop do a fresh valve job, check the cam/followers to assure they are fine, relieve the valves, port match the intake/exhaust ports to the intake/exhaust manifolds.. do a mild milling on the head to raise the compression slightly...and reinstall. A good Z shop will know how much they can mill the head without going to far. Check the cam timing and made sure it is to spec.(might have to replace the timing chain and gears to get it near perfect). 2 open the stock exhaust pipe at the "Y" - into a 2.25" exhaust system with a turbo muffler at the rear. 3 Super Tune that engine - make sure the ignition system is fully up to spec., that the injectors are clean and delivering the proper amount of fuel, etc etc. Check the distributor function and timing curve. Do the above and that car will run circles around the cars with lots of add no goodies - that do nothing more than waste your time. FWIW, Carl B.

As I recall they were N54's FWIW, Carl B.

humm.... I just checked the link - it said "auction ended" ... reserve not meet... Wonder if someone made him an offer he couldn't refuse, so he ended the auction or what??? BTW - not having the original wheels and tires on the car hurt it from a Collector perspective. Also, it did look in the pictures like someone was under the car cleaning and polishing selected parts... shouldn't have to do that with a 6K mile car... and doing that also hurts it from a Collector perspective. Being a 4spd. rather than the 5spd. also didn't help.. You would have to see it in person to really value it - but all-in-all $18K to $20K would be about right on that one... With the original tires showing 6K of wear, and the undercarriage looking like it should.. $21K to $23K to someone that loves the color and really wants a 77... FWIW... Carl B.

Points Distributor - will most likely have the 240-Z advance curve.. and vacuum advance So 14 to 16 degrees BTDC will make it a little easier to start... however with today's gasoline - you might have to back it back off if you get ping.