bartsscooterservice

It seems it was hooked up right, car started right up. Thanks everyone for the help so far.

Fuel and spark should be there, i'll try starting it tomorrow. Was just a bit confused on the coil connections, because 1 wire was missing.

Thanks, this made me fix that problem. Only thing I was missing on the coil was the black wire to the other side of the balance resistor ( if that's what it's called? ), that now seems to be coming from the loom near the brake booster/windschield washer, and I thought normally that wire should come from the loom near the coil right?

Thanks , yeah it can be a hell..., but thank god it's only once. I must say the RDW folks seem nicer and gentlier to the car then the APK guys ( yearly inspection can be at any garage ), APK they usually check play to suspesion parts with a crow bar or something, but with the RDW they use a special designed plate in the floor or something. I'm still not finished with the car to get to RDW, although the rear drums fit now, and the car it back on it's wheels, still need to bleed the brake and do some more work in the engine bay. Bart

Is the coil hooked up right now? I did find BW to + and B to -, and GW to balance resistor but missing something? I notice also there a black wire coming from the booster area, and thought this was on the balance resistor? But shouldn't all the wires for the ignition come from the front loom? And also I'm confused what's the function of the part that's under the coil, pictured? I assume 1 hose went to what the picture shows? But the other connection seems closed anyhow? Anyone some information on this? Thanks

Yeah it sure is, but it must also be some kind of an addiction, like a drug... you want to fix it the best you can

Welcome Yes, we do know where Bahrain is

Nice work again e-tek ! You'll get there

good point, will do..thanks

I did look at the tech articles and use the search function many times, but couldn't find the exact info on that washer, just a exploided view where it's in..

I noticed there is a washer ( or 2 ? ) underneath the spring, on top of the piston, whatˊs itˊs function? ( inside the vacuum area in the bell housing ) , I am missing a washer on 1 carb, is it a problem? If so anyone has info on their thickness?

Hi Norm, Nice 280Z, you'll be deep into the Z virus soon like the others here say! Looked at the pictures, and rust is allready everywhere believe me. But that doesn't matter it's a Z.., just repair the bad spots. I think going for a second hand dent free front fender from a donor car is much easier for you, I would recommend to scrape all the paint of the car ( this is what an old pro from a local body shop here lately told me ), this way you can acces every bad rust spot on the body, many times it's hidden under the bodyfiller. And you got all that nasty old body filler removed, then let a body shop do a new thin bondo job and respray. ( or diy respray ) Bart

Okay.. next update ( tomorrow I can go back for the rear brakes ). Thanks to help here on the forum in the SU section and some friends, and information from the internet I was able to clean ( also the nozzles )and rebuild the Hitachi carburetor. I've done 1 now, and will do the other one tomorrow if I have some time between my work. Everything works smooth again. Any advice on the damper oil? I've got different engine oils forehand and ATF.

aha ok I got it now, seems the same principle as CVK carbs. I will have a look at the carbs tomorrow, thanks found this, helped me out understanding the carb SU Variable Choke Carburettors Explained

I did look at the articles, but the main problem with my carbs is the operating mechanism om the side of the carbs, that I think are somewhat wrong, if somebody has a detailed picture of that part for me? I can look how it's supposed to be.. 1 carb when I operate the main throttle it will lower the nozzle just a bit, the other one doesn't lower the nozzle at all, something is wrong with the operating mechanism settings. Choke seems to work on both carbs.

I also work on small bikes, and adjust valve clearence when engine is cold.

Was A/C stock option back in the days?

beautiful! that license plate is cool !

Thanks Blue, the rear drum brakes wasn't difficult, I did notice thanks to the drawing in the manual that the bigger spring was mounted on top, while it should be down at the cilinder. Anyhow I let a shop put new pads on the shoes, but now the drum didn't fit over it, when fully adjusted inwards. So the pads are to thick. The shop is closed this week holiday, so I will go back monday to let them take something of the pads, and then I can put the car back on it's wheels and bleed the brakes. ( I first asked a machine shop about taking something out of the drums, but he also adviced taking something of the pads instead ) Meanwhile while I have to wait, I am working on the engine bay, I sprayed everything back into the blue color of the car, since that was all nasty and grey.. cleaning up the engine and parts a bit, but wil be painting the engine block in summer. Now the carbs are a problem but a friend can help, he maybe has 2 good ones. ( it are 4 screw )If he has none, I'll prob let a shop rebuild them, or get a set from the US. Anyhow I'm speeding things up a bit, need to be back RDW within 2 max 3 weeks. There's still a piece of the emission junk on the exhaust manifold, but I will try to take that off in the summer, it's verry corroded, and feared breaking it

Nice to see you got it on the road again ! Maybe a DIY paintjob in the future?

Are there any basic settings for the different adjustment screws? Was wondering.. since I have them of now for cleaning Bart

Looking good ! Makita is quality tools

Indeed, very nice work !

If you can get the piece of bumper ( if chrome intact ) for me, then I can pay to you for the bumper and shipping costs ? Bart

Installed the brake pads with new shoes and the repaired brake cilinder, but now the drums won't come on. ( the cilinder is all adjusted back ) I gave them the maxium drum size which is 2300mm.. mm anyhow, tomorrow I will let a machine shop take some out of the drums, and then it should be fine. So meanwhile I went to work in the engine bay, and one side is done today.