EuroDat

I was thinking that too. You could spin the circlip around to the back of the cup to get more contact. Captain Obvious and I mentioned doing that around post 1870, but if you look at the photo's in post 1860, theee is not enough clerance. The circlips would bind on the back section.

The A11 600 000 is the manual version and the 601 is automatc version. Nissan don't mention any difference between the auto or the manual in their part numbers. Unfortunatly they didn't mark the ECU with their number, so tracing the ecu to their part number is not easy if at all. No csv seems strange. An auto is no easier to start when its cold so why would they delete it? The very early 280Z up to April 75 had a Bosch unit (B, after that they are all JECS (J I thought they were interchangable up to August 77. The units after August 77 don't have the terminal 20 for fuel injection relay. They changed the relay to a two separate relay system in the engine bay and used the oil sensor to activate it. The switch in the AFM is no longer used. I think I posted a photo of ghe two AFM's earlier in this thread. They also introduced a califorian version which had an altitude switch. I have a 5/77 280Z with a ECU out of a 6/76 and it runs without issues. My car is a manual and the donor 6/76 also.

https://www.ebay.com/p/Fuel-Injection-Combination-Relay-Inj-Combi-Relay-Bosch-0-332-514-120/77006951

When you are looking for a fuel injection relay try for the bosch type 0 332 514 120. Used on porsche, volvo, mercedss etc. It is the same thing, but made in germany.

Btw. The fusable link is still intact, although it looks like it is a little shorter. Looks like it has been cut and reconnected to the new battery terminal.

They are not two wire on the fusable link. One is a clear plastic cord so the fusable link will not be stressed when pulled. Looking at the photo, someone cut the plastic cord off when they fitted a new battery terminal. Second, I had trouble in the begining when I looked at the two wires going to the ECU. Both red doesn't make much sense. You would expecg yhe negative to be black, blue or something other than red.

Looks like they fit pretty good. I didn't come across that part number in my searching back in 2012. I found the Rockford 430-10 and cross referenced then to a couple of european manufactures. Good to know that SKF make them too.

That chamfer is a concern of mine too. You could slide the circlip around the cup so it gets maximum contact. You would need enough clearance around the back of the cup. Sometimes the distance is too small and the circlip jams between the cup and yoke. I came across the rockford 430-10 some 6 years back when I was cleaning my propeller shaft aftrr rebuilding the transmission. A company had them in a ad for 82-83 720 pick up and the dimensions looked good for the 280Z. The other thing that needs to be checked is the inside distance "B" in post 1861. Is the tolerance of this distance suitable to fit inner circlip u-joints? Could be batches out there with distances like 35.8mm or 36.3mm. That could cause a problem.

I think they started staking because the smaller u-joints aee easier to fit. The measurements I took were 36mm inside faces, but that was with u-joint still in place so not very accurate. I think the inside is machine accuratly, because it would require less balancing weigths. My concern would be the tolerances used. 36mm could be 36.2 on one and 35.8 on another. It will be interesting to see how they fit.

Nice work. I had a list with yhe 720 pick up and as far as I could tell, the 720 had the same staked uni-joints. Would be good to have an alternative.

Little bit of digging and I found a grubby little yellow post-it with Rockford 430-10. They made them for nissan, subaru and many other models. They should fit and cost here in NL €29.50 each. Cup diameter: 22mm Distance between circlip outer edges: 35.7mm (standard circlips) @wheee! Mark, If your uni's are stuffed, can you dismantle one and take some accurate measurements? I have some other part numbers with slightly wider/narrower dimensions.

Mike, If you try this you will come across several problems, or should I say challenges to some of us here 1. The uni-joints on the propeller shaft after 7/75 are much smaller than the earlier units. You can't use the early style/half shaft uni-joints. 2. You need to find uni-joints of the smaller size with grooves in the cups for circlips. Not many of the smaller ones do. They are out there. I did find some and noted the part numbers. Ill look them up and post them later. That brings up the next problem. 3. Finding a uni-joint with circlip grooves the right distance apart of 36mm. Lets face it, parts are getting scarce. It would be nice to have this option.

I think zcardepot still sell complete units for around $350. Not sure if that is remanufactured or new aftermarket.

Hi Jesus. Looking at your post #32. You have a bosch AFM. Datsun used the bosch systems in the early models up to mid 75. Looks like the PO has been swapping parts from an early model. Did you have a chance to check the model ECU? Im almost certain the pin configuration is the same on the bosch and early JECsS systems.

What... No photo of that little hobby tractor with snow chains

Wow. That is a nice array of cars you have. Grats. Im a 280Z owner so I don't get hung up on on all these issues. I have being told my car doesn't count because its not a "real" S30 ...... After excepting that as their opinion, I just get on with enjoying it. That is why I bought it in the first place.

Just to add my 2 cents on these connectors. I have repaired a couple of 280Z and a couple of european bosch variants which are basic the same thing. A LOT of these ebay sellers are just flipping stuff you can get from aliexpress. Clues like the brown insulator plugs point towards a lot of aliexpress stuff. Not saying they are bad quality, just cheaper when sourced directly. I have original Nissan, original Bosch, Aliexpress and a couple from ebay. I can not say one is better than the other. In the first photo is a mix from bosch (with blue tyco insulators) and stuff from aliexpress, note the brown insulators. Second photo is a typical kit from aliexpress. The harness (spare) in the last photo has the purple ebay connectors with the extra wire and nissan harness on the temperature sensors which are a bugger to remove from the sensor.

I replaced my EV1 connectors with these 4 years ago. Very neat compact plug. Never had any trouble with them and much easier to remove then the originals. If you buy two sets of 6 you will have enough for all the two wire connectors and two spare. https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-QTY-EV1-FUEL-INJECTOR-CONNECTOR-QUICK-RELEASE-double-sealed-/181954792631?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10 You can buy a complete kit for around $50 - 60, but the plugs are the long version . All these plugs are the short conpact version. And with the wire you can shorten the original wire and solder them to a clean section of wire. The TPS and AFM don't have that option. You will need a special crimping tool for them. For the 3 pin afm connector, search for "bosch 3 pin connector" https://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSCH-3-PIN-FEMALE-CONNECTOR-BMW-PORSCHE-MERCEDES-VOLVO-SAAB-WIRING-HARNESS/391975738836?hash=item5b43931dd4:g:MA4AAOSwd4tT2BJS&vxp=mtr For the 7 pin afm connector, search for "bosch 7 pin connector" https://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSCH-7-PIN-FEMALE-HARNESS-CONNECTOR-MERCEDES-PORSCHE-BMW-VOLVO-ENGINE-HARNESS/391890689846?epid=1847139851&hash=item5b3e815f36:g:NnUAAOSwxH1T2UeV&vxp=mtr

Looking at your photo, I can't see the return line from the FPR. It should be in the red circle under the hose going to the valve cover. The return line has a 90 degree bend towards the front, so I would expect to see the second clamp. Im wondering if it is connected correctly. If it is, follow it through to the hose next to the filter. Disconect it there and test the pressure again. To test the pressure. Remove the little spade terminal wire on the starter motor so you can turn the key to start position to run the pump, but not crank the engine. Don't need to crank the engine to test the FPR. Like already mentioned, it should be reading around 36 psi. 55 is way too much and will flood the engine. The ECU is expecting 36 psi and won't compensate for high pressure. The 77 model had the two inlets (in blue circles) and the outlet (red circle) with a 90 degree bend. The 78 version had one inlet on the back side of the FPR. It's clear youhave the 77.

Sory, forgot to mention that. Yes clockwise increases spring tension and reduses the travel (advance) caused by vacuum.

The vacuum canister helps for streetdriving economy and emmisions. No performance value. Here is a link with some good info on datsun distributors http://newprotest.org/projects/510/jasonGrayDistributor.pl I made a screenshot of the vacuum casister section

@german240 Yes. We did it on a mates old rust bucket 280ZX. Unfortunatly we were not very carefull and the dremel we were using had too large a grinding head for the job. We managed to get the plastic out and adjust the screw, but it had a vacuum leak because the grinder went through the side wall. Its very thin and easy to do. Sealed it with a blob of silicone and it didn't leak in the time he had it. If I had to do it again, I would buy a kit of small grinding bits and take plenty of time to carefully remove the plastic.

+1. Zed head is on the right track. The 280Z dizzy single pick up (D6F4 to D6F6) had 17 degrees mechanical advance and 10 to 18 degrees vacuum advance depending on model number dizzy. You can mount a HEI just about anywhere. Thd 280ZX 79 - early 81 (D6K8 and D6K9) had 17 mechanical, but came with 10 to 30 vacuum advance. You can remove a blob of plastic to access a screw to adjust the spring tension in the vacuum dash pot, but it is tricky and you can damage it beyond repair. I don't know what your setup is, but if you are using tripples, you probably have the initial timing set higher than 10 degrees. If you have 15 degrees initial advance, you could have conditions with 63 degrees advance on some distributors. Something to keep in mind when you install one of these distributors.

You have the extra washer on the Bottom side of the swaybar. It should be on the top side. See pos#31 in screenshot. It is not used when you use PU bushes. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile