MikeW

I think your question is a bit vague. Are you talking about on the street or on the track in a race where cars of a similar class compete together? Are you talking about a stock 240Z against a stock 911 from the same year? Let's put it this way: Any Z ever made, even a 280ZX, will beat the original Porsche 356 from 1948 (1.1 liters, 40hp, top speed 85mph). If you want to compare equal model years then it would be safe to say that a 2003 350Z (156mph) could probably take a 2003 Cayenne (150mph). If you want to compare cars from the early to mid seventies I'm afraid to say that the Porsche 917/30 Can-Am set the world closed course speed record of 221mph in 1975 that held for over 10 years. It did of course weigh about 500 pounds less than a 240Z and have almost 1500hp. People racing Z cars have certainly beat people racing Porsches. The 240Z can hold its own against a similarly equipped 911. The statment that a "Porsche will CONSTANTLY waste a Z" sounds like an adolescent statement similar to arguing about who's the better athlete. Let your buddies win the argument; they probably don't own Porsches anyhow.

Your unisyn "wheel" is closed all the way and the marker still doesn't float?

Yes. I'm basing this answer on the VB catalog where they list replacement fenders as the same part# for 1970-1978.

I did mine as well but by hand. I basically followed these instructions: http://www.georgiazclub.com/tips/ztech/coverpolish.htm The first key is to not go too easy in the beginning. Use the coarsest grade of paper needed to get to the bottom of the worst defect. The second key is to make sure you don't try to jump grades. Sure, you'll eventually get out all of the marks from the previous grade but it will take longer. As I recall I went in the following order: 80 100 150 220 320 400 600 1000 1500 various metal polishes Also, I found that working with wet paper works best (you can get coarse paper that can be used wet) as well as some of the newer sanding sponges and soft sanding blocks from 3M. Those are especially helpful on the curved surfaces.

What holds them in place? Is is just a force fit? There's a smaller rubber piece on the inside of the bumper that protects the body from the bumper ends where they're attached but the bolt goes through those.

No. The 240 and early 260's have front turn signals below the bumper on each corner. The later models have solid lower corners with the turn signals in the grill area. I'm not sure about the center section.

I'm not sure but I suspect the correct mixture results it's a blue flame similar to to what you'd see on a natural gas stovetop. Sometimes with those you'll see mostly blue flame with wisps of yellow/orange. If you can differentiate between those you'll probably be Ok with the colortune.

I'm thinking about getting one myself. Surely you'd have to use at least two plugs, one from the front 3 and one from the back 3. If you did all 6 and there was a difference between, say, #1 and #2 I don't see how you could adjust that apart from modifying the intake manifold. However, all cylinders sharing the same carb should have the same mixture.

I'm actually interested in getting new A/C for my car. I've looked at the MSA kit and have also noticed this one at a lower cost: http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CP&Product_Code=240Z-AC Anyone know what the differences are? Is it the same kit?

MSA offers both press-on an screw on center caps with "Z" logos. I need to get a set myself and have been meaning to call them.

I don't see how it would be possible to make a solid wheel (i.e., no gaps) out of real wood.

I'm fairly sure my gearshift knob is wood (at least the grain looks proper) but the steering wheel is almost certainly plastic. This has been discussed thoroughly in the past without anyone proving it conclusively one way or the other. I plan on refinishing mine plastic or not ...

Rust

Others here will certainly have better advice. However, keep in mind that primer is porous because its whole job is to allow paint to stick to it. I wouldn't drive a primer-only car anywhere where it could get wet.

That makes sense since you could accidentally turn them completely off.

Actually, if you roll it over it will be sucking air as the fuel pickup would be at the top. Seriously, I guess it wouldn't be such a bad idea to get it to shut off. Perhaps you could use a relay that is open when the engine is not actually running. I wonder if it could draw power only from the alternator somehow as that would only be generating is the engine was turning over.

While I don't have any 280 road tests handy, a 260 test I found listed 18-20mpg on regular gas. In other words, 17 isn't all that far from what would be expected.

If the door doesn't latch properly it's more likely the striker plate on the door jamb that needs to be adjusted; not anything inside the door.

Here's a VR with cover on EBay. I can't tell what the cover is made of. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33577&item=2417703439

Here's what I've used. It's cheap and easy to find at most hardware stores: http://automotive.aubuchonhardware.com/engine_lubricants_and_additives/penetrating_oil_and_lithium_grease/3-in-1_motor_oil-575407.asp

Yep, you do have to know how to refine your search. I used "back to black" rubber Another great thing about google is the google toobar. Can't work without it: http://toolbar.google.com/

Google is your friend: http://www.autogeek.net/motbactrimca.html

Ok, so what do you see when you click on "My Gallery"?

Are you sure the upload worked? I don't see any pictures in your gallery. Normally, before they are approved you should see a black and white replacement image that says something like "Image pending approval". Do you even see those?

There's a rheostat knob under the dash (like the knob that resets the trip odometer but on the other side) that adjusts the brightness of all of the instrument bulbs. Yours may be turned down. On the other hand, all of your bulbs may be dim due to years of use. I wouldn't expect to see anything in daylight except for perhaps the brake warning and the hi beam indicator. The true test would be how things look at night.