siteunseen

That book is the best step by step instructions I've ever had. He even cracks a joke every know and then. I don't know the proper term, 1st person or 2nd person, but he writes like he's talking to you throwing in short cuts when usable. $19.95 w/free shipping from amazon.com. I'm glad I bought it but you've done very well with your books it looks like.

How to Rebuild your L series by Tom Monroe suggest putting only water in the cooling system when 1st cranking. Also because of no air flow he says put a hose pipe in filler hole and opening the drain on the radiator so it's not overflowing then you'll have cool water circulating. New parts cause friction creating extra heat for the first 20 minutes at 1500 rpm that he suggest. I haven't read anything on priming the cooling jackets before the thermostat opens. I guess I'll fill the block with water before installing the thermostat or just leave out the thermostat? More research! I'm rebuilding mine also as a 1st timer. Good luck with your's.

I am glad you got your tie rods replaced without too much blood or blue fingernails.

A rear engine with the body in front?

It's really easier than I was thinking, maybe because it's a 280 and I had read bad expirences from people with 240s. Remove that shield behind passengers rear tire the night before and spray those 3 hose clamps and the 14mm bolts for the tank straps with your choice of lubricate, I use 50/50 acetone and ATF. And like Blue did, leave the sending unit in the tank just unplug the 2 wire connection in your hatch. Like a dumb*** I took mine out and lost the O-ring. I've ordered Red Kote to line my tank, a quart was $25 of ebay and read the instructions online and it sounds simple or "idiot proof" as someone said on here before. Here's a link to the instructions http://damonq.com/TechSheets/Red-Kote.pdf

I did it just like Blue's Tech Tips and it was easy with plenty of pictures, but it's a 280 like he has. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

Thank's for preventing that mess! Glad to here from someone who has used it 1st hand. Melted Jolly Ranchers. Great description, I've seen that plenty of times down here in the Deep South.

I've ordered a quart for my tank and if I have any extra I thought I could do the calipers. I'll have to read the msda info when it gets here. Might not be a deep enough red either, I don't want fuschia brakes.

I read somewhere to use a adjustable shower curtain rod from inside of the tires across to the other beforehand then after install recheck with the curtain rod, now that's Shade Tree but if it works?

I had a lot easier situation which was, and still is, no motor and in no hurry. It was pretty easy though and the fsm tells exactly how just remember that they're diffrent for each side and to count the rotation turns coming off then put them back the same number and you'll still be alligned. You could borrow a fork from a parts chain or buy one for around $15. Make sure there's no pressure up or down when you use the fork and it won't take too much of a hit to pop the ends off.

I just put Moogs on mine. Got them from rockauto for around $20 each and they have grease fittings. A guy on here not too long ago said he bought the ones from Black Dragon and didin't like them, no grease fitting and a nylon lock nut instead of nut and cotter pin. On mine the stud that comes up vertical on the tire side would spin around all loose like and that ain't 'spose to happen. Mine didn't look as bad as yours! I'll take some pictures for you later this morning.

Has anybody ever painted their brake calipers with this stuff?

It was something I had dreaded for 2 months. A little more than an hour and it was on the ground. I sure am glad I bought the same car as Blue has. Thank You again Blue.

Will a pint cover the tank or will it take a quart? It's a '77 but I'm not sure about the capacity. Thanks for any answers.

I'll guess no fuel injection holes on your gasket. That's what they sent me. I went and bought a Felpro which is supposed to be a good gasket, haven't used it yet so no opinion.

I used a 1" steel putty knife and some wd-40 to soften it up some. Then cleaned all up with the scotch brite pad. Worked for me.

Got my six today and they look great! Probably still would be stressing had you not shared your information, thanks again sscanf. Thank you for telling about the O rings already in the box, I was about to waste $18 for those.

HLS30355834. color code 305.

Looks good. Don't forget the anti-seize for the new studs and bolts on the aluminium head.

In my #1 post the first picture is from the Craigslist ad I bought it from and the second is when I first pulled my motor. Others are after cleaning and some painting of the engine bay. My elbows need a shot of grease or cortisone.

Mine was made 09/'76 and titled a '77. An early '77 w/5 speed manual and sloped deck. I do have pictures.

That elbow looks kinda suspious compared to the other one. It's the grease.

Long way to go but I'm getting closer. Cleaning and touch up painting the engine bay now. Dropping gas tank and cleaning is next.

I put all my front poly bushings and steering rack back today. Finesse and a bottle jack, not a bottle of Jack, helped with the front sway bar end-links. I was trying the bolt down from the top and after lots of cussing and slinging tools I came back upstairs for a break. Turned on AtlanticZ tech tips and Mr Blue had a note "bolt head is at the bottom" well everything went back together. Still a huge pain in the rectum but it's done. Thank You Blue.

So it's a series II. This '77 whipped my butt today. There's not enough beer in Alabama for me to take on an older car.