siteunseen

Glad you have a Z, welcome to the forum, now show us some pictures please, we like pictures. Hit the "More Reply Options" button down at the bottom then "Choose Files" or copy and paste.

Yeah metal door frames with cement filling behind them, that's pretty secure. But then you have the windows to worry about. Come on in and meet my little friend,

I bought a remanufactured Cardone from amazon.com for a '79 ZX, $100. Then the Crane PS20 coil for around $40. You'll need a ZX cap and button, bigger gapped spark plugs. Here's what I followed, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html the 240 wiring diagram is at the bottom of the page, I read that about 5 times before I did the swap and boy what a difference it made. You'll need the ZX adapter from a junkyard car or zcarsource.com might have some. Here's the write up on a filter after the fuel tank, I found the Fram G2 fits better on 240s, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm Thank you Blue! Quick look on partsfinder, 1979 Engine Nissan 280 ZX 79 280zx non turbo 68,000 A $325 Dings Auto Sales USA-CT(Litchfield) E-mail 860-567-5539 37 You could call and ask them about parts, 37 miles from Milford, CT.

He touches on that in post #37. FWIW

I had to use the smaller vise grips on mine's flare nuts. Held the hose connector with the bigger set. Your evap stuff does look good. Only fumes through those so if you don't bend them too much they shouldn't crack from dry rot. Put a clear filter on the fuel tank's outlet. Fram G2 works better on smaller 240 lines, $4 @ walmart. If it stays fairly clear you're good IMHO. Do you have a points ignition or has it been upgraded yet? I ask because that's the best thing money and time wise. $.02 worth.

The "money shot".

They're only as secure as the door frame anyway. A good master key is a sledgehammer, opens them right up. Back to putting my model car together.

Sounds like that "antibackfire valve from the balance tube" isn't "crap" afterall.

Add up your cost on refurbishing the rear brakes then look at these. I forgot all about them yesterday but I will be getting some very soon. https://zcardepot.com/brakes/rear-brakes/disc-brake-conversion-rear-disk-240z-260z-280z.html

Is there anyway to use air pressure to pop the dents out? I used to fill the metal tank on my dirtbike with water and freeze it. takes a few times but it would get small dents out of the tank. Freezing a car tank would be hard to do though, too many vent holes and you'd have to have a deep freezer or a restaurant's walk in. You could spot weld a hook on it and pull it out like auto body shops do. Maybe get a dent puller on a loaner program from local auto parts? Just ideas.

You better buckle up or you'll fall out.

Sorry I missed this. I've only done one car so my experience is limited to that but YES swapping the short hardlines from rear right to rear left and vice versa made the bending not too severe. I was really careful to not pinch those, just go slow when you do the bending. Another problem I had with the newer cylinders I bought from rockauto.com was the self adjusting wheel that tightens with the emergency brake. The arm that catches on the teeth of that little wheel wasn't making contact with the teeth, so when I got all done and went to adjust them by pulling the E brake a few times didn't tighten the shoes. I had to take them back off and bend that arm in a little more. The far left of this picture. Make sure that arm is in contact with the wheel with teeth.

My orange one still has the original paint, single stage- no clear coat. I had a guy wheel/cut it down to fresh paint for $200. Looks like new.

I would have wiped the grass off the gas tank before taking that picture. He must have backed into a ditch or something?

I would think the "Positive" in PCV should be outbound and relieved somehow, just a guess. Is that a crack above it? Looks like he JB welded it in place, maybe hard to get out, there's no threads in that hole. I put mine in last night. I want to see the core plugs, curious about those. "A crankcase ventilation system is a one way passage for gases to escape in a controlled manner from the crankcase of an internal combustion engine. This is necessary because internal combustion inevitably involves a small but continual amount of blow-by, which occurs when some of the gases from the combustion leak past the piston rings (that is, blow by them) to end up inside the crankcase, causing pressure to build up in the crank case. For control of the pressure inside it, a PCV (Positive crankshaft ventilation) is used to vent the crank case."

Are you guys saying "DON'T FORGET AND USE CHAIN TENSIONER TOOL" !!!! Should I buy from MSA or other source!!! PLEASE ADVISE!!! Ebay has this nice red one for much cheaper price!!!

My "more air more fuel quicker spark equals more rpm" theory is not true for SUs. They' adjust for the air flow by the piston lowering and raising. Sorry

My thinking is/was going to #2 gives me 4 degrees timing advance which in turn would allow me to back up the distributor timing 4 degrees, evening things out initially. Then when the motor is broken in and loosened up I could get more power by adjusting the carbs and adding that 4 degrees back to the distributor's timing. Before I rebuilt the motor I was at full advance and it topped out at 6,000 rpms. Now I've opened up the ports to match the head gasket and added a header with 2.5" full exhaust, moving more air leaning out my carbs hopefully. Then I want to add more fuel and more distributor timing for more rpms. It's a new timing kit, yes, and it is tight. Both bright links are on their sprocket dimples, cam and crank. So at the very worst, what y'all are saying is that I will still have my distributor all the way clockwise, full advance? EDIT: Could I take a Dremel and lengthen the hole on the adjustment plate of the distributor for more advance? I have the '79 ZX E12-80 distributor. EDIT #2: I think I'm worried about a problem I had before rebuilding. Hopefully it won't be there now and the advance will not need to be as severe as before.

Thank you all. Madkaw, that makes it too easy! DJWarner I had to run my distributor all the way clockwise before the rebuild so I'm hoping #2 will give me some adjustment there. If not I'll go to #3. When I rebuilt my 2.8 I set it up on #3 from the beginning and have been very happy with how it runs. I won't drive them enough to stretch the chain. Honsowetz says it in his book like NVZEE posted and I noticed on this build Tom Monroe uses #2 on the L20 he builds in his book. Zed Head, yes the tight side is tight, I learned that the hard way when I was trying to time the oil pump last year. Always go clockwise with the crank bolt and never back up, make another rotation instead. I really need to use the FSM more, I wish I knew it as well as you do.

Does this look about right for number two with a new chain? All my other indicators are showing top center and I'm thinking if it's advanced it should be ahead of the thrust plate line. The dowel notch is to the right side of the line half way. Please let me know if I'm wrong, it happens often. Thanks, Cliff

I apologize for even asking without reading back over the older post. That's the motor you "STOLE". I remember now and yes, you'll be buying tires.

Yes, I would agree it's been cut. Do you have dished pistons or flat topped?

I had big plans for that 240 but decided it was too nice to hot rod so I'm leaving it as stock as I can, 2.4 liter. Matched the ports to the intake and header, smoothed everything down on that temporary E88. I'm going to refresh the original E88 this winter and swap them out someday. I have an E31 with 280 valves just sitting waiting on steel valve seats, damn machinist! When I finally get it done I have a cam kit to put in and then on top of an F54 bored .30" over but I can't decide what car will get the better motor, most likely I'll put it into my 280. Cam kit from Schneider, http://schneidercams.com/270-80_FL6.aspx

That's funny. I've sprayed everything with white lithium grease and it guarantees to stick and lubricate.