siteunseen

Looks good! You are on the downside of the hill now, congratulations and it goes to show how persistence and asking for help pays off.

I had to put a small bottle jack under the front tires and push them waaaay up in the fender wheel to get mine on. After I got everything bolted up I dropped it down on the ground and torqued the nuts.

Hopefully you can find a nice replacement faceplate. You have a lot of hard work completed on your dash area. A nice faceplate would be icing on the cake.

A silver Sharpie paint pen on the radio's face plate works great. Thanks again @psdenno

"I tried to take it back Boss"

Opening and closing the choke before he starts it drops the nozzles and they refill with fuel right? I pull mine all the way back and crank it, let it run for a minute or two and then go half choke. Drive out of my neighborhood which takes about 2 or 3 minutes then get on the main roads and close the choke. I think his choke time is close to what I do and he's worried for no reason. From all his past post he wants someone to say YES or NO. So can you or anybody else tell him YES or NO? Everything I've ever had with a manual choke has been different. My Exmark mower has to be choked EVERYTIME I crank it no matter how hot it is. I can run it for an hour and turn it off for 5 minutes and it won't crank with out choking it. I guess it needs the throttle blade closed to pull the fuel in? Jalex do you have to choke it throughout the day or just first thing in the morning? Do you let your pump run for a couple of seconds to fill the lines and float bowl or do you immediately crank your car? If you read the definition of "choke" I think you'll ease your head/mind.

Did stopping the hot water fix your percolation or whatever was causing it from "stuck in traffic" you kept on complaining about? If it did, move on. If it didn't run the rubber fuel rail as was suggested umpteen times, change the carbs back and don't use the choke if it bothers you that bad. 45 year old car remember.

I like your's better! Sounds like real life. Psychiatrist with horse $^!# in there office? More like the psychiatrist's own $^!#.

Never heard that one before, funny! Pretty sure I would be considered an optimist. Next the psychiatrist took the optimist to a room piled highwith horse manure. The boy yelped with delight, clamberedto the top of the pile, and joyfully dug out scoop after scoop,tossing the manure into the air with glee. "What on earth are you doing?" the psychiatrist asked. "Well,” said the boy, beaming "...there's gotta be a pony in there somewhere!"

Here's his web-site http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net/

I used these two on the different builds, couldn't tell any big difference. You'll need this too in a few places And this on most all my gaskets just to hold them in place while I put things together And most of all, use this on all your threads Oh yeah, some Loc-tite

I refurbished my combo switch to get my dash lights back. Only broke one tab. 8^) Dave Irwin would've been a better choice but I was young and dumb, broke too. Very little has changed except more candles on my cake.

I have a quite a few from my rebuild in a folder. Manifold gasket, rear main seal, intake washers, oil pan gasket, and more I'm sure from Nissan. Bearings, rings, oil pump, timing kit and a bunch of other stuff from rockauto.com. Water pump, clutch kit and fluids from amazon.com. The 2.8 motor I have was a lot easier to get parts for. 2.4 was more difficult in my opinion. First thing to buy is How to Rebuild Your Nissan L Motor by Tom Monroe. amazon.com, $20. I'll dig through that file and see what I have. I don't know if there's a check list, I've not seen one. Zcardepot.com has a complete bolt kit that I used instead of cleaning and reusing the old ones. That was nice. He may have a rebuild kit too? zcarsource.com has one I think, MSA may also. Most folks do a rebuild thread on here, read a couple of those for paint and other tips. The motor mounts from Nissan are high dollar but are right. Aftermarket ones need a little adjusting but will work and way cheaper. We'll be here for help.

Gettin' ready for them little Z cars all over Austin I see!

Jai I mow a few yards around here for nice people that need a little help now and again, never ask for money. Sometimes I'll get a big ole plate wrapped in foil sitting in the bed of my truck of food like Mom cooks. Sometimes just a honest Thank You and a smile like you described, "door to door". I don't have much income either but a lot of "come on in" around here. Nothing better than having good friendly neighbors. If the police tried to get me they'd have to arrest the whole neighborhood. It'll workout for you and Pete. Try and not worry too much, good things happen to good people.

Loropetalum.

That sucks. Is there a way to find the last bidder?

Like they said at mandatory AA meetings, keep coming back; you'll learn something. I learned to stay home.

Yaaaay! Persistance pays off, congratulations.

Now that'll be stuck in my head until dementia sets in. NEE-SUN Surface rust, " merely a flesh wound".

Just my quick thoughts, if he came down that much for a $70 part he knows there more to it than just the pump. Would you loose $3,000 over that? I believe the tank is full of crud that got sucked throughout the whole fuel system. You/ he could buy a $20 pump and run the fuel rail out of a gas can and it should crank. $6,000 is what I recently sold a '72 for. Great runner but had rust. It should have a mechanical pump running off the cam anyway. I wonder why hes saying it needs the electric pump?

You can make a ridiculously low ball offer if you can't drive it, like $5,000? That's how a got a super good deal on mine. The motor could be bad, transmission etc.. Make the offer and tell him when he gets it running so you can drive it you may come up to his asking price. Worth a try if you like the car. My guy wouldn't let me leave without making a deal, he was tired of moving it around with a lawnmower and ski rope.

Finally, back home! Here's what I was talking about, if you run into it later on. You see that little "nick" on the top shift rod, that's where mine was hitting the transmission housing or whatever it's called. Here's what I had to do to get it working with the 5 speed. It's been going good for almost a year now.

Yes. The plastic OE ones get worn and looser. Those bronze door pin bushing are much better. I don't even know if the plastic originals are still available?

It's in his Tech Tips BTW.