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That is AWESOME!

You can buy the potentiometer at Radio Shack for $5, that was what fixed mine and many others on here. I almost bought this Bosch but it doesn't have a vacuum port. https://www.summitracing.com/ga/parts/bch-0280160001/overview/?cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-bosch-automotive Here's the one that I found that may work, $269 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic17b06/11-3073

There's not an adjustable FPR that works on our cars. I've read hours on that and even bought one just to see if it helped and it did not. They lose pressure. Airtex is the only one I read about that worked okay and it was like $249.

They have a flat side and a rounded side, the rounded side goes out against the cup washer, the flat side stays in the middle on both sides up against the frame. Those are hyperflex polyurethane I believe? "Not all bushings are made alike. Some can break T/C Rods. G-Machine on left and Hyperflex on right."

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/comprod/index.html

When I first bought my 280 I dropped the tank and coated it, waste of time as it wasn't rusty. The fix was adding a potentiometer in the CTS wires to the ECU. Mine would spit and sputter up to 2,500 RPMs then clear up and pull like it should. The way I figured that out was pinching the return line to the tank to build up higher fuel pressure making it richer, negating the lean signal to the ECU. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html Before you go through all the trouble put in a clear filter coming out of the tank before the the fuel pump, you can see rusty particles if they are in there. EDIT: the pic below is my 240's filter. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

You're right. My dumb self took mine out of an old pump and measured it and completely forgot about doing that. Here's the check valve Captain Obvious used.

Now we're talking! I think anybody that reads my post sees how immature I am. If I had an extra liver (an undamaged one) I would live forever.

If you pull the fuel line off the cold start valve and plug it with a bolt that should stop any fuel from leaking at that spot if it it is bad. I've read there's a lot of people that don't even run the CSV, I assume they all live in warmer climates or keep there cars in a garage where it stays warm for start up.

here's some good stuff for a 280 to. I had sent you 240 information. You're car looks great!

You're the Man! The young at heart man. Wishing you many more and if you are like your Dad there will be. Congratulations Mark. You still look at the boobies I bet!

I used a loaner tool deal from autozone for an inch pound wrench. Same kind I almost drove 30 minutes and bought from Harbor Freight, Pittsburgh.

Could you say where you bought those, I like that look. Hell a mud splatter looks good on your's!

I think it's all in the spelling, PORSCHE/DATSUN.

I did 84 inch pounds on my last pan, FYI.

Chicka wow wow. Or giggity giggity. I'm sorry grown ups.

You know I'm kidding right? I've seen your hands and they could pound me 6 feet into the ground. Me and you are compadres, si'? Drinking buddies? Shade tree limbs? Brothers from different mothers? Anything that means we are friends. I hope 68 candles fit on your cake. Thank the forum for posting your age, I would've thought 58 at the most.

I have some OEM NOS rust for sale, cheap!

9 fingers Mark? Yes, happy birthday to you, happy birthday to you... you gettin' old, your fingers are falling off...blah blah blah

Sounds like it had a paint color change over it's lifetime? Maybe if the color is on it, the transmission crossmember could be removed for a scan.

Is the gasket sticking out any? Mine did at first and it leaked when I overfilled it. Loosened the pan bolts, tucked it back and slowly went around retightening. Stopped mine from leaking and taught me that 5 qts is too much oil for my 240.

Mine are painted the same all over/under. I'm not understanding your color question.

Not so lucky for you.