siteunseen

I would also get newer hex head injector hold down screws if you have the oe phillips head type. That Ebay kit I bought was like Superlen says above, extra for the csv, plugs on thermo housing. Also had white and black wires, no red. Seems like his username was something to with "Zs"? Zconexion, zclips, ztronics. zgeek? siteunseen...

Guilty! I have a small world.

Google "240z balance tube plugs". Or just take the ones off you want to replace to a hardware store.

Read down a few...

I bought American standard size brass and forced it in. Not much forcing though, they were real close already. Bruce from ztherapy has that info in a thread on here somewhere. Let me look around...

Congratulations! I would think the later volt readings are from the alternator spinning. After a lot of research I bought Standard FJ707. Good injectors at a good price. Connectors from a ebay seller. Someone will have to help here as I can't remember at the moment. New connectors and heat shrink for the solder connections at a good price too.

Curious is all. Thanks again.

Your Father-in-law would be very happy to know these guys. Could've been on here before himself. They will give you good honest information, opinions about selling them at top dollar for his family. Best of luck down the road. You have a nice, clean job ahead of you. ?

Thank you. I was curious as to what the carpet looking ring is?

What is that?

You know you're going to have to tell us about the white one too, right? Beautiful RHD and garage mates. 8^)

There's a beautiful set of SUs ready to bolt on for sale on here. Figure how much rebuild kits are plus your time then compare to $250 with a 24/7 tech guy. The one that's helping you now. Post that advert link @240260280

I'm going to change my username to Tree Shaker.

I bought a motor that had half fuel half oil too. The head was nice and shiney under the valve cover. Had to rebuild the carbs. Did your's just start doing this? Something is out of adjustment. If not consider rebuilding. Just thought about something to check. Make sure your nozzles are moving up and down with the choke lever. They could be stuck in the down position. Your choke wires could be loose or out of whack. The flat linkage bar could be bent. The small hoses could be wrong and hardened preventing them from movement. A lot of "could be" on those SUs.

I would buy a set of plugs, $10 and make sure the wires are in good shape and the right order. The cold start valve could be dumping fuel in also?

"500 miles in the last few years" Sounds familiar. Priming everything worked. Good to know for us "Garage Queen" owners.

Wow! Big thanks for your time explaining that better. That post will be saved for sure. I'm guessing you have some experience in hvac. ? Thanks again.

If you use a small jack under the tire once you have the whole car up and get the weight off it's easy. I didn't have to use the fork removal tool, just tapped the vertical threaded rod out with a hammer after removing the castle nut. Hollar back when you get ready to do it if we can help.

Is your freon number in the video? I ask because my 77 has factory air that's long gone r12. A refrigeration guy we use at the restaurant said he has a drop in replacement for old commercial coolers and freezers. I think it was r222 maybe? I know it was in a pink tank. Thanks for any suggestions.

If you do the tie rod ends remember the driver's side has left handed threads. Lefty tighty, righty Lucy.

The Moog 9011 is greaseable. 14mm Thread MOOG® Problem Solver® products incorporate proven design and engineering features for like-new suspension, ease of installation and longer life. MOOG is the preferred steering and suspension parts brand of professional technicians and NASCAR Crew Chiefs. Construction and design validated by MOOG engineers Greaseable socket reduces corrosion and wear by allowing new lubricant to flush contaminants Loose or worn chassis parts can lead to premature tire wear Long-lasting performance Restores like-new steering and handling Material Neoprene Castle Nut Included Yes Cotter Pin Hole Yes Mounting Hole Quantity 3 Greasable Yes Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 4016078500, 40160A3405, 40160A8600, 40160A8610, 40160A8625, 40160U7000

Here's a DIY idea for those using MSA kit. http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/seat-rebuild/ https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic08f04/40-2690

@GregP Clarifying my point here because it's bothering me. The fuel valves above the floats can and do get sticky/stuck after sitting. I've bought new ones, to me, that were. My thinking was if those valves aren't opening your fuel has hit a dead end. By filling those bowls the floats should raise and move the needles in close them off. BUT poking the floats with the straw should get them to bounce like a fishing bobber and move those needles. The floats are so close to the wall the straws movement will be minimal, maybe up and down a quarter inch? Best of luck and please share the problem when you get it whipped. Cliff