siteunseen

I'll refer you to these post Mr Blue.

If the float pin holes are that wallard out I would buy new floats or bigger pins. Seems like you might could squeeze the hinge together or apart to tighten them up? If it's the OE distributor this post about worn springs inside make a lot of sense to me.

I think a tank liner type product on a plastic vapor tank would be a great idea. I've used Red-Kote a few times lining tanks and it works wonderfully (so far ).

Another good question. I overfilled mine last Sunday, had the cruise on and got a phone call. Mine did not drain under the car, maybe I should look into that? It ran right down the lower rear fender. It was even with the gas cap and after driving for an hour or so I could still see it down the filler hole. I wonder if they changed things up between our model years? Can't wait for the new year's questions I have for you all to answer for me!

Had to take a break! There's football game on I'd like to watch. First lesson I learned today is a Sharpie marker isn't suitable for this. I used my Dremel to make a scratch in the glass all the way around. 2nd one was my work table is crookeder than my teeth. Here's what I have set-up for Sunday morning, water hose is laying beside my chair in case of a fire. If anyone could add some advice I would appreciate it. This is just from eyeballing the tang from pictures I found on the internet. Prior to matching pictures they were waaaaaaay too high, I was driving on drips of fuel. Now I'm just a few millimeters off. In the morning they'll be perfect at 23mm. Thanks for everybodies help. Cliff

If I'm wrong I apologize but doesn't the filler tube have an overflow hose that connects to the vapor tank? I've overfilled mine a couple of times and the fumes were much stronger inside the cabin. Wouldn't there be a small amount of liquid fuel in there until it evaporates? I've learned to be more careful and not fill it until the gas pump shuts off. Number 18 in this drawing.

I'm scared of that radiator fan so I always put the golf tee inside the hose end off the distributor, not the end coming off the front carb, before I crank mine. If you get those marks on the pulley facing down, you can slide under the car and paint those marks with White-Out or whatever to make them easier to see. The first one from the left is 0, it's a little bigger notch also, then 5, 10, 15, 20 etc.

I don't know if this will be helpful to you in any way but it's a simple trick to test the float "floatability". On the lid there is a vent/overflow hose connector. You can use those little red straws that come with aerosol cans like WD-40 to stick down that connector and then it rest on the float's roof. With that you can see if the float is moving freely. I actually left one in and watched it raise and lower ever so slightly while I revved the motor. There should be a small tang coming off the floats hinge that keeps the float from dropping beyond the wall of the float chamber. It hits the mounting "legs" where the pin goes in. If it's bent wrong it'll make getting the float back in the chamber a little tough. You can sort of eyeball the tang the pin rides on in this picture. Before I learned the "Just SUs DVD" had some old instructions that are no good with the valves they now sell my tangs were ramped up almost to the top of the pin holes. They should be way down like the picture. That connections is closest to the carb body and looks similar to this only it stands straight up, vertically.

I'm playing around with my float levels also, if you can call it "playing". It's a PITA to me. I rebuilt mine after watching the ztherapy video. Set the floats as they show on said video, WAY OFF! After reading the world wide web plus a little more I found where ztherapy says to not do it the way the video shows, different valves won't hold the float up to measure .55" from inverted lid to float roof like I had mine. Now the way is to let the float dangle down and slowly push up until you can't blow through the supply line. I think I finally read where it should measure somewhere between 11mm 14mm from float roof to the lid. I decided to scratch all that and put the float and lid on top of a small glass. Measure down 23mm from the inside bottom of the lid, down the glass and make a mark. Pour gas through the supply and get the floats at the 23mm line on the glass. Here's where I got the idea, thanks @Jeff G 78 Oh yeah, when you're fooling with filling the float chambers a lot, I've found that removing the plugs and taking the coil wire off works fast and best for me. Mr Warner's way also works good but I haven't removed my valve cover.

Backwards from the mountain goat but along the same thinking. Shorter in front, longer in the rear.

Your wife would have a field day with this young man.

On acceleration, briefly, I understand why they would do it and I never had a problem but pulling a big hill is a different story. One beautiful sunny day I got about a fourth of the way up Alabama's highest mountain and the car started running on one carb. I had to roll backwards and cut the wheel to level the car while the bowl filled back up to go further up the mountain. I did this 4 times and knew what was happening so no big deal to me but the sweet young lady that was sitting next to me got worried then a little scared she was gonna be walking home. Now if she was a little older, she would've known we could coast back down the mountain. Trade-offs, at my age I'll do anything to get up that mountain.

That's exactly what mine was doing, hanging on the flimsy needle. I had thought of trying to find a different float that wouldn't have to be bent to such an angle as mine was. I got so frustrated a couple of months ago I put the OE Nissans back in. Long valve in front, short in the rear. Drove it until the cold weather finally got here and started back trying the ztherapy valves. The rubber tip on the 42 year old Nissans were squashed out around the edge. Thanks again, Cliff.

Thank you all! I'm joining this crowd, and am DONE fooling with long ears versus short ears. Now I'll set them in small glasses the size of the float chamber and get them at 23mm down. Once that is set, I'll do 10 turns down and see where the fuel is. This is the most talked about method for getting them dead on.

I kept reading the same advice, "make two as one". So I made two rears.

Anybody know of a reason I should NOT use two rear lids? I've read until my eyes are red. I want the front and rear to use the short valves like I bought from Ztherapy. Tired of fooling with them and was about to drill the longer fronts when I remembered my extra set of carbs. Switched everything around and I can't see any difference except they both have "R" stamped on them. Please tell me if I'm overlooking something.

I'm guilty of "over simpifying" (thanks ZH for the new word). After a mock-up assembly of the hoses and kock valve I learned something. When that valve is closed there is nothing getting past it to the heater core from the cylinder head. So until the valve is opened up the coolant is dead headed coming off the cylinder head. No need for another valve to stop the flow of coolant through the cabin in warmer weather like I was thinking here,

How much better does it run? I ran k&n filters on my sport bike and they really made a difference. Did the filter help any other problems you've been having? I'm on the fence on whether to buy one. Any advice would be great! Thanks!

That's a first for me! Never heard of a carpeted garage. Pretty smart and easily cleaned with a vacuum. Best of luck with your project and I have the Nissan part numbers for the seal and side seals, they are separate for some reason, if you need them.

Thank you Steve, I'll try a tank of 100%. I've wondered if going to hotter spark plugs would help with the ethanol gas we have now? probably has nothing to do with it though, I don't know a thing about fuel burn or plug explosion.

That's what it is here too. What would be better, 100% 87 octane or 10% ethanol 93 octane? I'm running an E88 on top of stock 2.4 block. I've never ran 100% in my car. Maybe I should start? It's hard for me to trust the gas stations. Alabama doesn't have the resources to test it all and I'm sure they could care less.

So I go back roads for an hour, ran great. Decided to get on the interstate and stretch it out coming home. Between 70 & 80 mph it starts with this fouled plugs feeling. Got off at the first exit, lower fuel consumption and running fine again. Float level is low on one of my carbs, probably the front one. Made it home okay and will pull the lids off Monday to check. Bah humbug from me! Although the master cylinder has sealed back up apparently. Maybe debris behind that seal but it hasn't leaked a drop in two weeks. Abort one baby and get pregnant the next day, my kind of luck. I'm kidding girls!

Yes they're solid. When I can afford to blow a few hundred dollars on nothing but looks I'm getting the rear kit from zcardepot with the same drilled and slotted rotors. Thank you and a Merry Christmas to you too!

If you can find real moonshine! After that show on Discovery everybodys putting crap in it to make it "taste better". WTF? It's homemade liquor, not flavored liqueur. Put five gallons of 93 in Friday, $2.41 a gallon. Now I'm about to go burn it. Y'all have a happy Christmas!

Come on down South! Sorta boring when you're young but I love it now. Everything is so damn cheap it makes up the difference in wages. Smog? We don't have no stinking smog or the test for it. You won't even get a title on '75s and older. 93 octane fuel and guns a plenty, nobody argues because they don't know for sure what you have in your pocket.