siteunseen

Use your nose hairs.

I've always been suspect of the oil pump and spindle being off. Everybody goes straight to that but actually its easy to time those on rebuild. I'm not saying that's NOT your problem but it's like blaming the bank for non sufficient funds. It's too easy in my opinion.

Look at zhome.com. They have a car registry by vin you can get pretty close with.

I agree with you, his TDC checks are too many not rights. I think once he keeps tension on the chain theyll fall n place. Hope so any way. 8^) I don't know how far Av8 is from the tail of the dragon but there has to be a Z club around there somewhere. @Travel'n Man

I'll try and find a photo of the notches on the cam sprocket. Racer Brown's article says the advanced opening and closing are beneficial too. In a small town like I have top end is useless, red light racing is all we can do and I'm holding my own with the camaros and mustangs. They want me to pull over and ask a bunch of questions. I tell them I have k and n cold air intake.

What number is above the brake booster? The vin#? Can't remember.

I got flamed pretty good for doing this but it works good on my two Zs. After rebuilding and all new timing components I set mine in hole three right off the bat. From all ive read they love advance? When I'm fooling with the timing chain I put vise grips on both sides of the cam, driver and passenger's side. Clamp them on the rough spots between the lobes so the handle rest against the top of the head. It won't move. Something else your gonna run into if you got that blue/purple chain tensioner tool from amazon that I bought, the first time you pull it out the wire comes loose. Hopefully that happened to me because my new chain was so damn tight. You wish Nissan kept maintenance records like the FAA. I went up in a '70 Mooney a couple of months ago and here I am.

Me too! Used a piece of PVC full of lacquer thinner for a day or two. EDIT: if you ever have to paint staircase spindles this works great but you have to do it before installation. Staple some string or wire on the end and hang them on something to dry.

I photoshopped it! That's a freshly machine shop worked N42 before I ever put it in my '77. ran the oil pump with a drill to prime all the oil lines, brand new VR1 too.

I forgot I had one in my guest bedroom and you are right, #1 is on the bottom.

And that's about where they are looking back at my picture.

No they don't, you're right. early '77s do, not sure of the month though. Mine was built in September of '76. This looks a little weird to me. It's round but way too big. Maybe it's a stopped up hole?

A piece of Scotch Brite pad and diesel fuel is what I used. With the plugs out spin the motor and watch the cam and spray bar. You'll see which ones need attention. I'm pretty sure @240260280 told me how to do that. Here's a cam he cleaned up the same way. Here's mine after rebuilding the motor. I put a rod down into the oil pump from the dizzy hole and chucked it up to my drill. Took about 10 seconds and with the drill on HIGH and that stuff shot out all over me. This is the N42 head with an oiler cam. Your N47 should have the same plus the spray bar.

Does your '77 have the N47 head like it came with or has it been swapped out? That's the #1 part on these motors and the N47 is the worst from all I've read. Mine is used for experimenting, like grinding the intake ports or unshrouding the valves. The N42 everybody likes you are reading about is the head. The N42 block, up until 1979 has low compression dished pistons. My N47 head has a spray bar and an oiler cam. It was built late 1976 and is when they started changing stuff.

I tried explaining that in that other gut wrenching SU float level thread. Here's the picture I used to try and get the very basic setting. And the bendable tang the needle rides on, the beginning of the yellow arrow in my picture, should be more rounded than straight. It should look like a speed bump instead of a ramp.

Don't be fooled by the ebay motors in front of a stock it and lock it building. They're lip stick on a pig motors.

Just remember the trailer fender on the driver's side lets down so you can open the car door. I didn't know that and crawled out the hatch! I pulled my camry to the top of my driveway, trailer at the bottom, with my mower. Unhooked everything and rolled the camry right up on the trailer. Had an extra set of eyes looking out for me. You can also use a cheap cable come along. Just make sure the trailer is going downhill. The best engine would b the f54 block and the n42 head. Then you begin your spare parts collection.

These work great and will get you out of the timeline.

I did all three.

The newer needle valves won't support the weight of the float when you turn the lid upside down. Find something .55" and blow through the fuel inlet on the lid pushing up on the float until it stops your breathe. When it stops your breathe the top of the float should be .55" from the lid. I do this with the lids upright, in front of a mirror. Yes, this is a ballpark, first step thing. I used the clear tube off the very bottom like in this picture.

Getting the motor up higher, with ramps or jack stands, while you work on it will save your back. I figured that out after a year or two. And you can get rid of that plastic hose that runs off the air cleaner to the passenger's fender with a small piece of screen wire.

That's what I did John. As soon as I realized I had a good solid car I pulled the motor out and rebuilt or replaced all I could. If you think the timing chain needs replacing, it's just about as easy to do the whole motor. It's easier to deal with that front sway bar with weight on the front tires so you need ramps or jack it up and let it back down on some pieces of wood or stone. The two front tires make good jack stands too. I've never done it but have read of people doing it but there's an oil pick-up that sticks down into the oil pan you'll have to get the gasket around. I don't know how hard that is. Google "replacing oil pan gasket motor in car classiczcars.com" You may have to loosen the motor mounts and jack the front of the motor up to clear that pick up? If you have the dizzy out already turn the cam bolt clockwise until all your TDC marks line up and take a look at the tang down in the distributor hole. After seeing that rotor button pointing straight down and knowing how easy it is to spin half way around I think your oil pump will be okay. There was a guy on here a year or so ago that tried like hell to get TDC and never could. Somebody said to always keep the straight side of the timing chain tight, he got it on TDC then.

They look like your's! I didn't see these. You cost me some money, damn it. I had you at 8 weeks but you got them between 4 & 6. Who had 5 weeks?

If you can, hold three together. 1-3 front carb then in another picture 4-6 rear carb. The gas we have around here doesn't get the plugs as dark as the older gas. Mine runs really good finally but the plug's porcelain only gets that good light brown color on about 1/4th that surface.

I'd try and make some as close as you can out of cardboard. Paint them black and step back and look. Or find a black shoe box?