siteunseen

Both the Zs I've replaced were. Maybe his was on a rotisserie?

Obviously, Mr Captain has seen this work around? @Captain Obvious

Keeping up with your perfectionism would be damn tough. Looks great. Much respect Mr Arnett! Cliff

I think its two different cars! The coloring is way off. Just a skeptic here though. I won't trust anything on CL.

I bought repros from futofab and these were in the OEs I have in a box.

I replaced Koitos on my '72 240, I can only guess they were original though. I didn't buy the car new. @psdenno may know?

If I was closer id do it for you. You should be able to get on that Georgia z club Facebook page and find some one. $75 at most for supplies and it needs at least a week to properly cure, the red kote. Hopefully you'll find someone or call some radiator shops that have or will do that type work. It's not too hard just time consuming, time is money.

If you are talking about the part in your hand, https://tabcoparts.com/cars/datsun/240z-260z-280z-1970-1978/1234.html

Install an aluminum flywheel on your 2.4. Won't add any more power but it'll spin up faster like a turbo. 2.4 have 83mm pistons. 2.8 zx turbo has 86mm. More displacement=more power.

If I remember correctly one nut is reverse thread, so I believe I remember it as "right is right, left is wrong" so the driver's side is reverse threaded. My advice on popping them loose is jack the car up and put another small jack under the ball joint bracket to make the tie rod level without any pressure on it. Mine popped right off after I did that. If that's what he's talking about?

I thought I heard a humming on my phone.

Well I've replied with the requested info. I'm sure you are right, I'm just a little paranoid nowadays.

I usually push the copper wires all the way through the clamp so you can see it on both sides, leaving none exposed. Take the starter to an auto parts store and have it tested, it's free around here. EDIT: leaving very little exposed.

Thank you Steve! I was worried he'd been hacked or something.

@Zup did you send me a pm?

"Oh also next to oil filter there is this plug can anyone tell me what it is? " This is the oil pressure sending unit, not sure if that's what you are speaking of though.

Yeah, the cam sprocket has three holes #1 #2 and #3 for chain stretch. Each hole advances the valve timing with number three hole closing the intake valve sooner than #1. Excerpt from Racer Brown... "Earlier intake valve closing is what brings and engine to life, gives it flexibility, range and muscle at just about any reasonable point in the speed range. It helps idle, off-idle and part-throttle steady-state cruise conditions possibly more than you could imagine. This occurs because no appreciable reverse-pumping action takes place, allowing a larger volume of air/fuel mixture to be trapped in the cylinder and put to work at lower engine speeds. Very early intake valve closing is beneficial in reducing exhaust emissions, improving fuel economy, etc., and is usually accompanied by a performance increase." I asked about this when I rebuilt my first L motor, a mechanic friend suggested it. It takes away from the top though so it's a trade off but with me just driving on public, police invested streets I choose the low end.

I think he was talking about dishwasher liquid detergent with hard water preventive? I think Cascade makes some for no water spots on the glasses, seems like I've seen a commercial or 2 million. Something like Palmolive will remove the wax I've heard. I always use Mother's carnuba myself.

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like a bad ground somewhere? Directions on cleaning are here, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html A new fuel filter in the engine bay would my first $10. Then a filter between the tank and fuel pump would be my next $5. Here's a good write up on that... http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm Here's the screen in the fuel pump that probably needs cleaning if it's been sitting in a barn. Was the old gas nasty smelling, looking? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/index.html Here's the home page where I'm getting this from. He has covered just about everything with good descriptive writing and photos. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ Good luck and we'll be here for 'ya.

The newer valves from Ztherapy are the same length, unlike the originals. Had a hard time setting them. After swapping out the long armed lid with a shorter one it's easier for me to get them adjusted. Now they're like the earlier 4 screw round tops. My car runs better than ever now.

Thanks guys! That's what happened to, sprayed it with water and was distracted by something. The water dried in the hot sun. Lesson learned. Dishwasher soap is a good idea, never thought of that. Thanks again, Cliff.

Here I go talking to myself again. But after a little googling I think vinegar and water wash then clay bar would work. I know vinegar and water cleans my coffee machine. Can't hurt.

I had my car cut and buffed a couple of years ago and have waxed it a few times with McGuires #7 glaze. Now after spraying It off with the hose pipe I have some water spots. Will a clay bar get those out? My Dad said vinegar and water would work but I'd rather clay bar it. Vinegar's for pickles. Thanks for any replies. Cliff

I blew leaves off some back roads this morning. Car is running good, finally. Putting short arm float lids on both SUs has worked out great.

Seems like datsungarage/engine.com has some info on that?