Captain Obvious

When you measured across the injector connectors... Was this with the connectors attached to the injectors, or with the connectors not plugged onto the injectors? Can you take a pic of how you took this measurement?

Will do. I'll try to snap one tomorrow.

What about the CD player are you trying to reverse engineer?

I looked for that number on RA and couldn't find it. Seems like you did get the last two. And what a deal that was!! Good for you!

I don't see any inner tie rod ends listed at all. You have a part number?

If everything is working as intended, then pushing coolant out into the overflow bottle is not only "not a problem", but it is actually a good thing. There should always be some coolant in the overflow bottle and the level should actually change as the engine heats up and cools back down. When the engine heats up, it pushes coolant out into the bottle, and then when the engine cools back down, it should suck the same amount of coolant back into the engine. I'm actually more concerned that your bottle was ever completely dry. That should not be the case.

The active ingredient in that stuff is "HYDROCHLORIC ACID 7647-01-0 10-20" I wouldn't put that stuff in my aluminum headed Z motor. Especially hot.

That bracket attaches to the dash metal skeleton and provides the mounting points (two) for the underside of the HVAC system. It kinda completes the bottom edge of the "box" around the HVAC controls. It runs (in "U" orientation) between the HVAC control panel and the radio, It is not shown in the parts breakdown above and it has nothing to do with the console or the radio. In fact, if the center console is removed, that bracket stays with the dash. It does not come out with the console. Having a hard time describing that thing with words, so if that's not good enough, let me know and I'll snap a pic.

I don't know what they used back in the day, but last time I looked the label today says citric acid.

Didn't break any old brittle plastic in the process?

The one marked "DEFOG" still controls the rear defroster. I wanted to combine the blue DEFOG indicator lamp with the switch so that would open up the spot above the switch. That way I could put the CHOKE indicator where the blue defog indicator was originally. I intend to run a carb conversion on my 77 sometime (when I finally get around to it). And the switch on the right marked "RECIRC" controls a fresh / recirculated servo motor on my HVAC system.

I took some pics of the kind of stuff I've been messing with... Here's my thin steel adapter plate the I'm using to mount a stock shaped switch on the far right console hole. Note that for the pic, I didn't want to pull the whole console out to take out the switch, so that's why the wires are running through the adapter plate. Also note that I intend to paint the plate black, but I haven't gotten around to that yet: And here's the switch that I'm putting in that location: This is what my switches look like at this point: And with the switches ON:

I would not try to stake them. The risks are just too high. I would use the loctite.

Last knob I had that problem with, I filled the inside with RTV silicone. Changed the weight and I think the elastomeric properties of the silicone helped damp the resonance.

When you remove that resistor from the harness, you completely separate the tach from the ignition circuit. With that resistor out, the RPM input signal to the tach is open circuited. That's why the tach didn't work at all when you pulled that resistor. That said though... It really is important that the original ignition module be disconnected, so double check just to be sure.

Ferg, Did it look "stock-ish"? I've always thought of putting a switch there, but I've never seen anything that looked like it really belonged. I want something that looks like it could have come from the factory.

Your switches look good. I haven't finalized my situation, but I'll try to snap a couple pics when I get the chance. I warn you though... It's going to raise some questions.

(I think the reason Dave asked is that) sometimes the shift knob can amplify vibrations and make a buzzy noise. You can check if it's part of the problem by simply unscrewing it and seeing what (if anything) happens to the noise.

LOL!!

Wait. Are you saying I'm fat?

Here's a thread with some stuff that might help. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/57671-electric-servos-instead-of-vacuum-driven-hvac/ The pics are dead, but if there's something you want, let me know.

Glad to help. I don't think you'll crack any plastics taking that panel out. The more risky maneuver is putting it back in. Don't torque the mounting screws too tight. I've seen a couple of those panels with cracks radiating out from the mounting screw holes due to being tightened too much.

The map light is replaced from the back side of the vent panel. Four screws to take the panel off and then the bulb goes into the lamp from the rear. I think they may have changed some of the details over the years from 74 to the end, but here's a pic that should help. This is the back side of that map light panel:

LOL!! Again? Haha!! Here's the (in)famous @Mike W and @GGRIII looking over GGR's first place winning 260Z. Yes... Gary's 260 beat out Mike's 260 for the first place spot. And nobody can convince me that it was as simple as the fact that Mike's beautiful Gold Cup Z was tucked safely parked inside one of the special display buildings (and most people didn't even know it was supposed to be considered for judging?). Veni, vidi, vici Oh, and I did mention that Mike has a beautiful 260 as well, right?

I think I'm headed out there tomorrow. Hope the weather holds!!