onemore240

Gunner - All you have to do is click Collection => Pick a number => Pick a wheel => click Spec It not only lists the price and offset, but the weight per size & width.. http://www.speedstar.co.jp/collection/ssr_reverse/spec.html

well -- thanks for all the kind words guys it really warms my heart that a car can bring such compassionate guys to one insiginificant spot in the vast sea of cyberspace. my radiation starts soon...we'll see how that goes -- I dont think my condition will be terminal, my doctors said I have a high chance of finding a marrow donor due to my O bloodtype

Sorry if it came off as me being unappreciative....everyone has on and off days...and there's no point in me spending any more money in the Z car seeing as I was diagnosed with Leukemia today... Been fun in the Z world guys

Watanabes don't come for FWD as far as I know....those watanabes I found are for 240SX ... which share our 4x114.3 bolt pattern...I dont care about spacers, what size spacer would I have to run, and Johns reply was just a bunch of technobabble this was a yes or no you have to run a zero offset wheel question. Good luck finding watanabes number too...

You realized, that had NOTHING to do with my question =P All I wanted to know, is if I had to use a zero offset wheel or if i could pick up some 16x7 +25 / 16x8 +26 watanabes I found

I was under the impression rear wheel drive cars could run any offset with the use of spacers...then in reading the post by Mike240 which he said Z's require a 0 offset, I got confused. Just wondering the validity of this statement. What is the best offset for the Z?

SSR Type C or SSR Competition (Same thing Type C in Japan Competition in the US) are a thin 5 spoke wheel which is VERY light and comes in our particular 4x114.3 boltpattern. The website is www.speedstar.co.jp the navigation is in English but the spec/matching is in Japanese. An online translator can be found at http://babelfish.altavista.com

because primer looks just so damn good =) who needs paint anyway...unless its Lexus Gloss Black =)

Yeah, i posted before I read....the 1234 and 7 are shock options...I'm going to go with #7 which are KYB GR2s... I don't know why they have the application key at the bottom with different lablings at the top of their application table....

Thanks a lot for the calculator...it seems my setup would give me exactly what I wanted. I decided to run a 268/.472 advertised cam and pick up some rebello valve springs. @ $4.50 each seems like a pretty good deal. I've also chosen my suspension setup but need to choose a springrate. I've chosen to go with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs, and KYB GR2 shocks which are #7 in the Ground-Control application guide. Also, are there any adjustable camber plates and pillowball upper mounts offered for the 71 240Zs?

Must be pretty special to say you have 1 off bilsteins...congrats again. I was thinking of running Ground Control weld on coilovers with eibach springs and KYB adj. shocks...what spring rates do you have on those?

Yeah I had these on my 240SX...wasnt a good time..but they look great...is my offset a correct one? thanks for the quick reply. Also, what about tire sizing?

I was thinking about getting a set of 15x7.5 front and 15x8 SSR Reverse Mesh wheels. I was wondering what a good offset would be for em? +38 with a 5mm spacer? Also, will they clear a 240SX/280ZX disc conversion Here's the wheel...opinions would be nice too...they're my #2 fave wheel after Watanabe RS8s but thats more for the 86 crowd I guess.

I also looked in the download section and couldn't find the L engine calculator..maybe I'm just blind but would it be to much to ask if you could provide me with a link?

*sigh* where to begin? I'll try to be to the point as possible. 1. L28 and L28et motors are essentially the same the only difference is the turbo head, dished pistons to lower compression, exhaust manifold. There are a couple but I cant remember exactly. What year L28et did you pick up? You should replace the engine mounts as they're prob really messed up. Don't bother with soft ones..might as well get some hard urethane mounts. Also you might want to look into getting a 4.11 R200 rear and a ZX 5 speed to have the appropriate gearing for the L28et. bolt em up and hoist em in and bolt it down then wire it up a Haynes or Chilton manual will be priceless during these steps. The whole thing should be pretty straight forward. F/I isn't my thing. I like to build high comp N/A Z's but you can build a MBC for like 7 bucks from home depot, or you can get a Blitz SBC-iD which is about $450 but the best on the market, another good one is the GReddy/TRUST/Gracer/GREX Profec B depending on what part of the world you're in at a cool $270, turbo wise you might wanna look into a T3/T4 hybrid and some new injectors and an aftermarket standalone computer. No matter how much you tune the factory ECU...it wont be as flexible or easy to do as it will with a standalone once you get the hang of it. Building a fast turbo motor isn't cheap if you want to do it right.