Stanley

2 - 3 - 5! But can it race? If not, I bet somebody swaps a high performance engine in there before November. Looking forward to seeing a monster GO in Option magazine.

Wow, $40 for a crappy little piece of plastic? You could get a new set of NGK plugs and wires for that. IMHO almost all cars look better without one. It's an American tradition, for most all car fanatics, to remove the hood ornaments and lead the holes first thing. Guess if it was a Rolls-Royce, Jaguar (not the new one, I'd ditch that thing) or a Bugatti I'd have to re-think it. Mine is gone. It was shot anyway.

Dig it. He likes Datsuns, doesn't get to work on many.

Thought about doing my exhaust (2 1/4" pipe) myself, but glad I bit the bullet and had a local independent muffler shop do it. Seems like a hard job without real expertise, especially in a Z - low to the ground so you need to get every bit of ground clearance possible. Not easy for a pro - impossible for me. They got it done in one day, all welded construction, painted it with ceramic paint too. Would never taken it to one of those big chain places, it probably would have been a thousand dollars. The local guy I knew only charged me $400 including a nice turbo muffler.

You checked the idle adjusting screws, first step, right? They're on each carb body right where the linkage between the carbs meets the carbs. Move them both all the way up or all the way down, and then screw each the same number of turns until they're in the middle where the idle is about right. Then set the balance, mix, fast balance, readjust the idle screws, and repeat. In case I left something out, the FSM tells it best.

Just be sure the air galley isn't rusted out - otherwise it will gas you.

Dumb me/need my glasses me. As little as I know about hose fittings, I did know about the 37 deg flare. The guys at Mr. Hose wisely put the -4 male to 1/4 npt male adapter on the hose end so it wouldn't get lost. What I was looking at was the 1/4" npt F/F adapter. I looked carefully at the hose end last night and thought it was one piece. Today I used a magnifying glass and saw it was the adapter. Duh....

Hooking up a new FP gauge. The line has a dash-4 male fitting and the gauge has a 1/4" NPT male fitting. The place that put my hose together gave me a brass female/female dash-4 to 1/4" NPT adapter and said to put the Teflon tape on the NPT side only. Figured it would be easy but I can't figure out which side of the adapter is which. Everything threads into everything about the same. One end of the adapter is flat and the other end is slightly beveled; also one end of the adapter is slightly (about 1 mm) longer than the other. Put the male threads together to see how they lined up - they matched pretty good but I could see air between the threads. ?????

My car was doing the same thing a year ago. From looking at the plugs, the front 3 were way rich, all black and fouled. Finally noticed the choke was sticking. Took off one screw and pulled the nozzle down, hit it and all the linkage with carb cleaner, followed up with the spray grease on the nozzle and linkage, and that fixed it. Not to say that's your problem. Yeah, you're supposed to re-balance the carbs again after adjusting the mix - according to the FSM anyway. I don't always do it, it's sorta fun though, just a hassle taking off the air cleaners every time.

??????????? Just click on "contact us" they'll email you back. If you're near San Jose you could go over to their Cupertino store and just pick up a copy or call them 408-200-4850. Or order it from Amazon Japan - just kidding - the shipping charges are a joke. Or order from clubjapan.jp - pay more and get it 3 months later ! Also, looks like I was wrong about the translations, NH Nostalgic Hero - ƒmƒXƒ^ƒ‹ƒWƒbƒNƒq[ƒ[@TOPƒy[ƒW has 4 translated issues for download, all 2 or 3 years old. Was just checking the ads, need a magnifying glass for most of them. One garage has 5 Toyota 2000GT's inside.

Check out this month's NH, 35 page article on the L-series dynasty. Got NH's usual hi-def photos and articles on Bluebird SSS, Silvia, Skyline, Fairlady 240ZG, Cedric 2600, Cedric 2800, Sunny, Bluebird 1300, and a bunch of photos of L-series motors at the Nissan factory museum. Can't read Japanese worth beans but a few months from now they'll probably post a translation of the article on the website.

Another option I've seen on some other sites is to run a hose from that pipe to a "catch can" filter, and then to the PCV valve. That way the liquid gunk or foam gets trapped by a stainless steel screen you can clean out, only fumes get recycled to the intake. Saw one that looks pretty good, with a bracket, at a boat store, about $45. Disclaimer: haven't actually tried it.

Nice idea. It's time-consuming to take off and reinstall the lids every time you adjust the tang on the floats. You need an electric FP though. Why are the valves sticking? Seems like the only part that can go bad is the rubber tip on the needle, or there's dirt in it. I got new valves but the rod that sticks down and contacts the tang on the float is smaller diameter and more wobbly than the older type. If it hits the tang at an angle it can stick - the older type doesn't. Maybe you can swap the new needle part into an older valve body, or just swap the rod into a new valve. Does Nissan sell the valves? MSA has a kit that includes them (new type) and some gaskets (but the little hose is a throwaway). They have good hoses, too, have to buy them separately.

Not sure how great an idea it is to rely on gunk in the AT to prevent slipping. It's easy enough to adjust the bands - just need a small torque wrench - the Haynes manual says adjust to "exactly ___" (have to look it up). I'm no expert but the way I change the fluid is: 1. Put the front wheels on ramps. 2. remove the pan carefully, pour it into a big plastic pan. 3. take off the RH cooler line at the radiator and drain it into a container. 4. run the engine for a few seconds to get the fluid out of the torque converter (into the container). 5. adjust the bands and clean the screen and the pan. 6. bolt it back up. Put in the fluid. The AT won't work until it runs for a few seconds and fills up the torque converter.

MSA lists part #11-2501 (float, 70-72) for $17, not available.

FWIW, my granny passed away shortly after she started drinking Ensure. Real food = real road trip

To me the real value is whether or not it protects your car. Mine had them front and rear. The rear one protected my taillights in a parking mistake, and is still ok; the front one bent over and crunched the front of my hood in a very minor incident - the stupid thing cost me a lot of time with the hammer, bondo and hi-build primer - it would have been no damage except to the bumper without it.

Summer's here so it's a good time for this thread. About six years ago, not long after buying my 73, took a trip to Tucson in July. On the up the mountain east of Palm Springs it overheated and lost some coolant. Let it cool off, topped it up and nursed it along to Blythe. Couldn't go over 60 mph without overheating. Stopped at Albertson's for some lunch, car wouldn't start - vaporlock. It was about 115F that day. Went to a motel, about half the cars there were having overheating problems. Got up before dawn and hit the road at 4:30 AM. Time and temp sign at the bank said it was 99F. Got across the bridge when it overheated, so I headed back to Blythe and found a little independent garage, they showed me the fan clutch had no resistance, replaced it and the water pump, not expensive. Made it to Tucson but had to keep the speed down a it would still overheat. Checked for exhaust in the coolant - negative. Ordered a oil cooler from MSA and hooked it up. Got a 180 F Nissan thermostat. A kid at a local garage told me to crack the hood, with that and the oil cooler it ran cool enough up to about 75 mph, gauge would read about 200F. Back on the coast a week later, flushed the radiator several times, installed a shroud and a "spook", bypassed the leaking heater. No big problem, but had to add coolant now and then, and there was some "smoke" from the exhaust. A year later the "smoke" got worse, then way worse. Saw water in the oil and have it towed to the garage. They pulled the head and found a corroded area by #6 cylinder and a hole in the gasket next to it. They put a new (81 JDM) head and metal gasket. No more problems except near Riverside, on a hot day, hit a "parking lot" on the freeway after a long fast run and saw the needle go up to 200F. Put an aluminum 3-row, also removed the plastic elbows for the interior vents to get more airflow. Now I can go up the mountain as fast as I want or hit "parking lots" on hot days and the gauge stays in the middle no matter what. Guess it was all worth it.

Wonder if a small captive screw or something could be added to the steel tang on the floats to allow adjustment. Even with a sight glass, it takes dexterity, patience and luck to get them adjusted right.

The girl and the car - both kawai

A few years ago in Tucson I had an overheating problem (due to an unrelated problem), went to the Nissan parts counter and asked for a 160F thermostat thinking it would help - the guy said it doesn't work that way and recommended a 180F which I am still running. The Z stays in the middle of the gauge even going up the mountains at 85 mph on a 105F day - but I have some other desert mods. Seem to get more power when the Z is completely warmed up, based on freeway speed at steady RPM. 3500 rpm gives me about 79 mph on a cool morning, 83 mph on a warm afternoon, gauge reads 180F both times. I've rechecked it a few times. Maybe this could be partly due to temp in the AT and differential? Sometimes I wonder if it's running too cool. 195F seems slightly high, but I often got there with the stock radiator and no oil cooler.

Can't believe nobody's making floats for the 240Z's. It's not that complicated - seems like the tool-up cost would be so low you could sell them for $5 each and still make a profit, $20 a pair would seem OK. I've seen some Chinese (I know) manufacturing company's sites that say something like "send us your CAD drawings, we'll send you a quote, 200 items minimum production..."

Some cool cars and trucks were there, scored me a magazine and a sweet hot wheels 240z race car at the JNC booth. A white 72 from Pierre's garage won the early Z division. Kept passing and getting passed on the freeway by some leadfoots in a dark green Bluebird from the show on the way back. Seems like Bluebirds should be blue, it sounded nice though.

It's for an SU but not the ones on a 240Z. Good thing there was a photo. Might fit 510's.

Nissan Jam | All Datsun & Nissan Show! Gotta get goin! See you there!