ollie

I would agree with that statement. I guess I have $600 stuck in my mind for some reason, but likley Spruell will be recieving an order soon. I am running 16 x 7 Rewinds with Dunlop Direzza Z1 in 205 55 16...I will likely go with a 225 / 50 / 15. Ok back on point...and thanks.

A set of 15 x 7 panasports so I don't have to roll the valence on my car...the 16 x 7 rewinds rub when turning in reverse...a trade would be ideal but unlikely. There's a set on Ratsun but $800 in need to a $400 refresh leaves me cold for some reason.

To the OP...I simply installed the PerTronix Ignitor in my distributor and have my points and condensor in the car, and am running the stock ballast resistor and stock 1.5 Ohm coil. No cutting, and I wrapped the wires in another layer of black electrician's tape so it looks clean, and I can roll back in no time at all. My points were not gapped properly I think, but the car is running WAY better now than before...and I can roll back anytime. My car too is at the end of an extensive and exhaustive restoration, check the thread in the general discussions section, so I wanted it clean as well.

Courtesy got ne mine.

I used diluted Simple Green then soaked it in 403 Aerospace protectant. Worked great, still a bit yellowed but I like the patina, same with the voltage regulator cover.

Quick update, and this really should have included video, but the motor is nicely tuned now and is making great power. I will get a video of the exhaust soon...it is a stahl header, into 2.5" full stainless with a vibrant center resonator and the ever elusive ANSA tail pipe. I had help tuning the carbs and the mechanic who did it knows SU's very well. He said 2 things; this motor likes fuel and it is very well balanced. I can't wait for the weather to improve to drive this car more than 75' out back of the shop. Side note; I know that an untouched original car is in high demand but I think it is great to see all the lengths people go to bring these cars back and this site is an awesome showcase and resource centre to help others along.

Nice work...if you plan on having the suspension parts powder coated like I did, do yourself a favour and make sure you plug all surfaces you do not want to change dimensions due to the power coating...I can't tell you how much time I spent grinding taping out powder coat, lesson learned.

Hey Jim...going through the motions of the collectors insurance now. The submission is in, and in a week or so I will recieve a form to debate the declared value. As for the use, the intention, or evolution of this car is to that of a collector but for my enjoyment. If it is scratched (the horror) I will simply go back to Mark and have him correct the paint. There are a few other cars I'm intersted in now, as I mentioned an '88 M5 and a later Austin Healey 3000...but the reality is I'm short on time so the M5 is the likely next project.

The valve cover is powder coated. I have a stack of receipts but once the body work bills were in I stopped caring to keep track, mostly for the sake of my marriage. Yep Norm @ Zedsaver helped a lot. Just be sure items are bagged and inventories tracked. My car did come out of the Denver area. If anyone recognizes it I would love to hear, the guy who sold it to me....well anyway I really love the car now. Fuzze I'm on the North Shore...I will have the car in the Sunshine Coast show as we have a summer place there. If you haven't been to the sleepy hollow show it is awesome, check it out.

Most, if not all, my plating was done locally by Norm Murphy, and it was primarily my original hardware replated. I think I needed a few other small fuel line clamps but 2 of which are not yet plated, I will have those done just becasue I can't stop myself. Thanks to all, I appreceiate it.

If anyone in the area (Vancouver, BC) is looking at body work, I would be more than happy to connect them with the guy who did the work, he is on Vancouver Island and has done a 68 Charger, and numerous 442's for a friend. He can only do things one way though, so he is not for everyone.

Thanks all...Carl, the grease smear on the block, once hot tanked, the L26 was a dead give away...anyway I went ahead with the build, the motor was in great shape, cylinder walls etc. If I can recall it has a ground crank, e31 head ported and polished, 280 valves, new rings, Stahl header matched to the head, mild to mid Shadbolt cam grind, new bearings, timing set, turbo oil pump, all emissions are gone, the carbs are new old stock, cost a small fortune, but are simply beautiful (thanks Norm). I have about 20 minutes run time on it now, and it is smooth, and will be fully tuned this weekend, my timing light broke and I am pretty useless at tuning SU's to date...it has been 28 years since my last Z.

Jim you might not recall but when I was getting this off the ground you sent me your spreadsheet...to which I reviewed the numbers and promptly threw away along with all fiscal responsibility. I am very thrilled with the result...I also have a set of 200 mile original hub caps, the ones in the pics above are original to my car and quite beat. Everything works, I sourced every NOS part I could, the bumpers were redone locally here in Vancouver at great expense, basically I think I would recover about 50% of each dollar spent, and I did all the assembly myself, but had a restorer do the body work, and he did an amazing job. Engine was done through by a local shop, every suspension bit was blasted and power coated, basically I went way too far now I am scared to drive it! Time to find a driver...but the reality is I'm now looking for the ultimate sedan; an '88 BMW M5, Canadian version, with black interior. I found a US import but I'm holding out....

I would have been done at least six months earlier but for the engine shop dragging their heels. Grannyknot is literally setting a land speed record for his body work, and it is more involved than mine.

This only a few of the in process pics, obviously I have literally 100's more.

Interior was nice...maybe it really did have 24,00 miles...sure wasn't the original motor.

Nothing that 17 months and a whole lot of money can't fix.

Hmmm..what's this? This is gonna be expsneive...

Thanks for all the info on this site, it has been of great value and assistance through this project. I bought this car as a '73 with a suppsoed 24,000 original miles, and rapidly found out that was absolutely not the case, yes, I'm sure you're as shocked as I was. Anyway I could not leave it alone so I built the car I wanted to. I'm happy how it turned out. Here is a shot when I bought the car. Pretty, eh?

I would have bought that car for $25k.

I would love to fix the slamming issue, it is better than before, but all hinges are in perfect shame and all parts are accoutned for, and in alingment. I have the Vintage Rubber seals and I think I need to work these over somewhat or switch the seals out.

Have a read through this thread here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/47279-l28-toasting-my-240z-clutch-2.html I am the one who posted last but it sounds to me like you have a slave issue...the slave piston should move back very easily and there is really no way you can move the fork outside the transmisstion by hand, or even with a big pry bar. It does sound like there is an issue with incompatible parts, and I know it sucks but don't screw around too much trying to diagnose this or that when you know in the end that transmisison is coming down. I spent forever bleeding mine to avoid pulling it out, and now I am really good at pulling the transmission out, you will be too. Anyway there are a variety of collars and clutches, the most important thing and this should be a sticky on replacing clutches, is the total distance discussed in that thread. Good luck.

My 73 had the guard bolted directly to the bar which meant the rubber had been cut. The issue I have is this; try finding replacement rubber for the 73....I searched for months and finally ended up with some NOS rubber strips, brand new. Even though I paid a lot of money to rechrome all the bumper surfaces, no way am I cutting the rubber strips so I am not going to install either front or rear guards unless I find more rubber strips in decent shape. I think you could install the bar in either form, drilling through the strip or cutting it, and to Carl's point cutting it as mine might have been an exception as the dealer installer probably just ignored the service bulletin.

agreed, thanks to conedodger Eric did mine too and the outcome is awesome. Top notch work.

Hi Brent, yes mine were electrical grounds. As for having to pull down the transmission, I am almost positive mine will have to come down again, but perhaps I will get lucky. On my exhaust, becasue I can't weld stainless (or much else for that matter) I have spent a fortune on this exhaust. I went with a 304 Mandrel bent builders kit, and focused on a Ansa tail pipe which has been a real PITA to fit...I think I finally have it "close enough" and will be picking up the pipes tonight...I can take a pic once it is up. Mine goes from a Stahl header into 2.5" with a mid resonator and then into the Ansa. So close to having the car finished, this Monday night will be the very end!