Walter Moore

Nice to meet you Glen.

Nice to meet you OBX. My wife and I drove through the outer banks last March. It seems like a nice place, but for someone from farm country (like me) that big body of water to the east was a little un-nerving. Anyway, take some time to search the archives here before your next repair. There is a lot of information here that no one else would ever tell you, and so far it is all free. (Thankfully...)

Let's see... 1000W / 12V = 83A. Hope you have upsized the alternator:classic: Oh, and I would recommend at least a #6 AWG wire for power...

This is a really stupid question, but I assume that you checked the inline fuse with an ohm meter... On my car the only thing that was wrong with the blower was the fuse. It didn't LOOK blown. It apparently had stress fractured.

For what it is worth, my car sat in the garage for a couple of years with no paint and the worst it got was a little surface rust. My vote is with HLS30.com's suggestion. putting paint on just to sand it off later is a waste of time and money. (not to mention the scratches in the car's surface you will end up with.)

Both battery cables are supposed to go directly to the starter. (At least on the early cars.) So if you have the positive cable going to the starter solenoid and the negative cable going to one of the starter mounting bolts there should be no reason for the current to take the significantly longer paths mentioned otherwise. However, if the negative battery cable is old, undersized, or corroded, then there could be a problem. Actually if you have a stock alternator with an external voltage regulator I would expect your first symptom of bad grounds to be trouble with the charging system. (A long story and hard to explain in a short post.) Besides the negative battery cable there is also an auxillary ground between the alternator and the fender. So if the battery cable were to fail then there could be a current path through the frame and the undersized frame ground wire on the negative battery cable. Those ground kits don't hurt anything, but if you are running a stock alternator, and the battery cables and factory ground wire are in good working order, they aren't likely to help anything either. On the other hand if you have upgraded the alternator to something with 100 amps or more available, extra ground wires could well be a good thing.

"The first rule of Italian race car driving: What's a behind me... she's a no important!"ROFL Gumball Rally, circa mid 1970's.

Very nice wheels you have there. If I hadn't spent several years polishing my 15" 280ZX turbo wheels (which I still don't have on the car) I would look into getting some myself.

Hey I notice the name of a member of this club listed at that link! Pretty cool!

Defensive driving school? I sat through one of those back in the day.:cheeky: Seems I had one too many tickets for "recklessly" driving 67 MPH in a 55 MPH zone. On the same exact stretch of road I might add where the speed limit is NOW 70 MPH and traffic travels 80 MPH... I was such a BAD person back then, but now I am MUCH better!

You have obvioiusly never actually been there... I was in Paris in 1992 and the air at street level was actually blue. No offense intended. I am sure it is better now. But seriously, most countries in Europe didn't start passing emissons laws until the 1990s. Since in some those countries cars aren't usually used for daily transportation it was considered less necessary. With large portions of the U.S. having NO public transportation of any kind cars here get used more.

Vehicle Inspections??? We don't need no stinking vehicle inspections! The righteous citizens of the state of Indiana rose up and told the legislature where to stick their vehicle inspections way back in the 70's, just after they banned daylight savings time!!! What did you say? Indiana has daylight savings time AGAIN!!! OH NOOOO... Where have all our righteous citizens gone??? NO NO NO:eek:

My 71 came with the "York" style compressor and the clamp on hoses that never sealed even when they were new. We had a similar system on my wife's 67 Mustang, and we had to recharge the R12 every spring because by October the system was empty. I just cut the hoses with loping shears (Tree branch sheers) and unbolted the compressor and the add-on evaporator coil housing inside the car. If the EPA is listening, the car had been in storage for over 10 years. There was NO pressure left in the system at all (I checked). It didn't even hiss when I cut the hoses. The piston style AC systems were worthless no matter what brand of car they were installed into. But I have converted a couple of later factory AC systems to R134 with no problems at all. As for the cost of R134 vs R12... ask the guy how much it costs to recharge an R12 system. But have an assistant ready with smelling salts because it is un-real. The last "recharge" that I paid for on an R12 system was over $100 just for the R12, and that was a system that was only a little low. (It still almost cooled the car.) A full R134 conversion kit was cheaper than a recharge for R12. (Including the cost to have someone reclaim the old R12 and evacuate the system.)

I think that we all forgot the most important driving technique! The shiny side goes UP, and the greasy side goes DOWN! Have fun, but be careful... remember that the life expectancy of a car is only about 20 years and yours is thirty! Treat it with the respect and caution it is due. (you wouldn't flog a 90 year old grandmother would you?)

Sounds like the way my 72 Pinto took EVERY corner... whether I wanted it to or not I came out of nearly every turn with the front wheels pointed in the opposite direction from the turn... trying to keep them AHEAD of the rear wheels. Man that car sucked, but it sure taught me a lot about driving!

Take your pick: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SIC102 http://classicdatsun.com/ http://www.zbarn.com/New%20Parts%20F./seat_upholstery_kits.htm http://www.datsunrestore.com/catalog.html http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/t72.html Did I leave anyone out?

Stick with doors from the 76 - 78 models. If you search the forums there is a thread somewhere that mentions that the early doors are different from the later doors. My Driver's door isn't original, and while it closes ok, the lower rear edge sticks out... There is a subtle difference in the shape of the body on the later cars from the early ones... I think the later cars are longer perhaps?

There are a number of things that might need to be replaced, but until you look you can't be sure. The differential attaches to the frame with a mount that has rubber parts, like a motor mount. If it is torn you need a new one. Similarly there are mounts for the mustach bar, and if a 77 has anything in common with a 71 you have to remove the lower control arms, which have rubber mounts as well. Sad to say, but unless you look carefully now you could be in for an umpleasant suprise later.

Really? The reason that R12 was so popular originally was that it was non-toxic. In fact it is harmful to the ozone layer because the only thing that breaks the stuff down is high-energy radiation, which is only present on earth in the extreme upper atmosphere. Once that happens the chlorine released reacts with the ozone and degrades the planet's natural radiation shield. (At least that is the theory... it has never been proven.) Now the lubricating oils that are in there WITH the R12, THOSE can be unpleasant. Back in the pre-ban days they used to sell R12 off the shelf at Wal-mart and K-mart. Usually you would waste a couple of cans before you figured out how to re-charge your car. I have never heard of anyone getting sick from R12. In the 1960's it was used as the propellant in nearly all spray cans.