Walter Moore

Couldn't you tell by the stroke length? A 2.4 has a stroke of 72.7mm, the 2.6/2.8 is 79. Only 5mm, but it should be detectable. Besides, aren't crank shafts forged, not cast?

I doubt the would have used an unpopular car model. Regardless of the sponsorship they still have to attract an audience. As for using a Mustang, given that the Trans-am is ancient history from the perspective of the likely audience, (i.e. preteen boys...) and the Camaro will not be on the road for another year, the choice would have come down to a Mustang, Corvette, Charger, or one of the various "foreign" sports models, and frankly the likely audience (add to previous description, word "redneck"...) isn't going to be rooting for a "ferrr-un" model. (Actually, in this part of the country the term redneck isn't actually an insult. Just thought I should point that out, in my own defense....)

That is what I was afraid was the case. I have seen other hold down devices on cars, and other things that used a square thread, like is on an Acme screw, instead of the triangular threads that are used on fasteners.

Does anyone know what the correct thread diameter and pitch is for the spare tire T-Bolt on the early (70-73) Z cars? I have the plate, but not the T-bolt, and have not been able to identify the bolt size needed. It doesn't seem to match any bolts, or taps that I have on hand.

For the truly cheap paint you could try: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20410&highlight=Roller+paint I ended up painting mine with a brush, and wet sanding, then buffing it for months. It looks like it was painted a long time ago, and has seen better days. I used Valspar tractor paint. Originally I used about 2 1/2 gallons, and now I need to buy some more to touch-up some areas that I missed, or buffed too thin. It was way too much work, and really the result is only acceptable to me because I was trying to build a fun driver, not something that will win car shows. On the other hand, I dropped a sharp metal tool on the fender last fall and scratched the paint. The repair was quick and easy. I just filled the scratch with paint, let it cure for a week, then buffed it out. It looks like scratch was never there.

That part broke on my car as well. I made an expansion chamber from a collection of pipe fittings. As shown in the attached photo. I used a 1/8" NPT brass close nipple (short) and then attached a 1/8" ID to 1/4" OD adapter. To that I attached a 1/4" ID to 3/8" OD adapter, then a 3/8" ID to 1/2" OD, and finally used a 1/2" black pipe cap to close off the top. I used brass because I assumed that the actual threads were BSPT, and while the OD and thread pitch are the same as NPT, the threads will be deeper. Brass being soft will conform to the steel threads and seal better. I considered just plugging the hole, but was concerned that if Nissan thought the rack needed an expansion chamber the grease might rupture the seals when the unit was hot.

In the case of anything to do with "The Dukes of Hazard" I believe that his grammar was correct within the context.

And don't forget the "Ferrari Daytona" from the original "Miami Vice" series that was actually a Corvette in a fake wrapper. There were lots of "Kits" out there at one time. For one reason or another that fad has mostly faded out. Actually a former co-worker of mine had a car that looked a lot like that, but made from a VW Bug. They also made them from Pintos, and Chevettes if I remember correctly. It was an 80's thing... Thankfully that decade ended...

Orange is good. The "stock" color on my car was not good. What color do you look good driving? That is the color you want. They tell me that bright colors are better if the body isn't perfect because it is harder to find the flaws. You only get one guess why my car is lime green...

For reference, you have to take off the license plate light to get to the catch for the rear hatch latch mechanism. The catch is a loop sort of thing with slotted mounting points, and can be adjusted up or down about an inch I think.

Did they really put the flat top U.S. specification carbs and the 5 MPH bumpers on the cars that went to Europe? (The original U.S. bumper specification starting in 73 was 5 MPH on the bumpers. They lowered it to 2.5 in the late 80's to help with fuel economy, right before the SUV craze. Of course SUVs, being trucks, are exempt from the bumper requirements, and have bumpers that are just about as strong as the ones on my 71 240z.)

Well, that is my definition... but often it involves wax, and conditioners for leather and vinyl surfaces. I wonder how one "details" the underside of a car beyond just taking to Mike's Express car wash and paying for the "Works Wash'? But I have learned my lesson... I will NEVER again say anything nice about a car for sale on Ebay. (Not that I would be interested in this car. For 20K it would have to be perfectly restored, or literally brand new to get my attention.)

Bart, I currently have 68 pictures in my gallery: http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?ppuser=3035&cat=500 But there are a lot more from other members. My best advice it to do the things that Carl listed above, and when you are about to start on some task that is new to you, search the subject in the forums here. There is a wealth of information here, some of which is hard to find from other sources. See you later.

Good luck! Five years ago I was where you are now. It is a lot of work, but it can be done. It only takes time, dedication, and money, or just lots of money. (To pay someone else) I actually got to drive my car this fall. It made the work all worthwhile.

Heh, The bottom of that car looks a lot like mine, and I know that mine saw some "Off-road" action at least once. Odds are that by the time you got the sound insulation off the floor it would be perforated.

By the way, the reason that I know all of this is because I just recently bought a hardware kit to try to fix my squealing brakes. If you by the kit from Motorsport, be aware that one kit will do both sides. You don't need to buy two kits. (Unless you have rear disks...)

When I searched the shim part numbers on Courtesy Parts web site, those part numbers came back empty. I didn't actually try at a local Nissan dealer, but the shims do come as part of the disk brake hardware kit from Motorsports auto: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SBC04 Interesting, the hardware kit has a Nissan part number on it, but that part number also does not find anything when I search it on Courtesy part's web site... But Courtesy parts does list a hardware kit on this page: http://www.courtesyparts.com/s30_brakes.html I wonder if it is the same kit, but with a different number?

According to the weather reports that cold air is moving my direction... would you do me a favor and hang on to it for another couple of weeks? How about at least until I get this 5 speed installed in my car. I just can't get my garage more than about 25 degrees above ambient... If not, thanks for sharing. ;-)

I never knew that the U.S. DOT ever actually required a passenger side mirror. Thinking back it seems like the right hand mirror that came on my 82 Charger was an option. I could be wrong however, since that was 26 years ago... I remember someone I knew had an 81 or 82 model without a passenger side mirror. I always just assumed that all cars ended up with dual mirrors for purely marketing reasons.

The 5 slot "mag" wheels were a common aftermarket wheel style in the 60's and 70's. They were often installed as a dealer option, or by the owner after the fact. You see them on a lot of cars from that era, not just Zs.