Willoughby Z

If this is showing the distributor vacuum pot- the hose looks pinched off. Like I said, I know the topic is coil, wiring,etc. but I just noticed it and thought I would point it out. Carry on.

Zclocks!

Zclocks!

From a discussion on Zcar.com: "You might have noticed that the original poster has a 76 280Z, thus no carbs. He already has a fuel pump that keeps a steady pressure of 30psi. Dollars to doughnuts he doesn't have the problem until AFTER he shuts the car off for a few minutes, and then tries to restart it. That is the typical failure mode for the fuel injected cars. I agree, your carb car suffered from true vapor lock, which while difficult, can be cured, or eased somewhat. What the poster has is called heat soak. The engine heats up after the coolant stops flowing, taking the temperature of the gas up with it. The fuel lines bolted directly to the head and intake transfer the heat. Vapor forms, and when the car is restarted, it runs badly until WOT clears out the lines. Then its fine."- Zuber "As long as your car isn't doing this running down the road. Vapor lock attacks cars in motion, hot restart is the term for, uh, em, er... "Hot Restart Problems" If you are stumbling while going up long uphill grades in high heat, driving in extreme heat, or other similar maladies, check your fuel filter... EFI cars are not really that susceptible to the "Vapor Lock" problems found in CArbbed cars due to the nature of their fuel system design. There is really a lot of flow going through the rail, and the only time the fuel has time to REALLY heat up is when that flow suddenly stops and sits stagnant (like when shutting off the car after a long, hard run) Then you get "Hot Restart Problems". - Tony D

VIDEO: Discovery Japan?s Retro Car Kings | Japanese Nostalgic Car

I'm gonna make an assumption that there no proof that the engine is truly running or 4 or 5 cylinders. When it hot starts, running rough-missing- it feels like it. In my opinion, if there was a mechanical issues-valves, as mentioned- it would run poorly all of the time. I have this problem and I followed all of the advice from this forum and the procedures from the FSM. There is fuel pressure in the rail when it happens- gauge mounted on the rail, with pressure in spec. I have new Bosch injectors, fuel lines, fuel filters and check valve. There is an additional check valve because I do lose pressure after a few hours but others have opined that that isn't an issue. The valve train is in spec. All of the ignition parts are top quality and new. Other than the sputtering, stuttering rough start-up, the car is a screamer and runs perfectly. I have popped the hood after stopping, leaving it on the latch, for ventilation, as was suggested by others and it greatly reduced the problem. Just as leaving the car sit longer than 40 minutes seems to help. Some have retrofiited the engine bay with the cooling fan and ductwork from the ZX and reported a solution or improvement. I believe the issue is connected to todays fuel blend and the summer/winter seasonal blends. My experience is that I have to make minor tweeks to the AFM and distributor timing twice a year. I even have two marks on the AFM toothed wheel and the dizzy scale depending on the fuel time of year. A long-time and well-respected forum member uses a manually switched fuel pump prior to cranking and claims success. Good luck.

Download the FSM. Check the BE chapter... XenonS30

Seeing Z's rotting in a goat pen or an open shed, makes me ill...

My guess is that it is the penetrating oil burning off. And probably some coolant. And some greasy grime (loosened by the oil and coolant) that dropped onto the manifold. Let it run -outside- until it stops smoking. You should run it for awhile anyway, up to normal operating temp, to insure that you don't have any leaks at the thermostat housing

I take it from the seller's note on the dash that the L28 is being thrown in with the "running car".

Or the water temp sensor, thermotime switch, etc.

I have a 280-maybe this will help, maybe not. Edit: never mind, my photos won't help you.

IMO, the module (failing) was causing the tach to jump around. I replaced mine based on suggestions from forum members. The car would suddenly start bucking, misfiring, eventually stallin, similar to runnung out of fuel. Restarting could happen immediately or it could take awhile. It wasn't until this had happened a couple of times within a few days that I noticed the tach needle going nuts during an "episode". I'd not noticed it before 'cuz the sh@t would always happen on the freeway or in the middle of traffic. I was more concerned looking for a landing zone than to watch the dash.

You already have... Stebel makes the Nautilus Compact. Sorry to mislead.

PM sent

Hey Sarah Yup. On the Spit at 12th. We've lost 2' of dune face. I had different horns than the Nautilus, lasted a couple of years. Lots of ridin' in the rain... A friend has the Stebels on his bike for four years now-still working. Mfg says the horn has to be vertical or it may quit working. His are horizontal and have worked fine. That's the only testimonial I have.

I like it. I've had compact air horns on motorcycles. The stock "beetle beep" on a bike is worse than the Z "meep". Good find.

And often the posts make no sense. I'm thinking, " ESL?" New to the internet and the rhythms of forums? I've overlooked posting dates myself and as someone pointed out recently, adding facts or data to an old thread can useful from an archivel perspective. But some of the activity is as I said, :stupid:

It was just a reference for your price point. I was trying to help you show the value for OEM stuff.

MSA is selling the the whole set- locks and keys for $450 and individual repro keys for $60 each.

Thread is over 10 years old and the OP hasn't been on for nearly six years... :stupid:

I purchased WILBY Z with cash from a signature loan from my credit union. It wasn't the lowest rate but it was quick. I suggest starting with your bank. Here are some other specialists ( found with a Google search): http://www.fossilcars.com/resources/classic-car-financing

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Body260Z280Z/22/RadiatorGrilleBumper/tabid/1801/Default.aspx

260/280 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Body260Z280Z/2Seater/DoorLockRegulatorHandle/tabid/1793/Default.aspx 240 http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunZIndex/Body240Z/DoorLockWindowRegulatorHandle/tabid/1763/Default.aspx