Patcon

Will setting the SU's at an angle effect the operation of the float chambers or the float level??? Charles

I have a 60 gal Ingersol Rand 5 hp compressor, when it runs a lot I have some serious water in the lines. I have a Jet coalescing filter in the main line (3/4") about 20' from the air compressor. I am looking into solutions to dry the whole system and to dry the air specifically for painting one of my cars that is coming back from the media blaster. I could use any help or suggestions for what others have done and the results. It can be very humid here in the south and with high temperatures making dry air can be a challenge. Thanks, Charles

What did you use for resin? How did you go about making molds? How did you locate the correct colors? Details please, very interesting. I had considered a similar effort to make me a set of JDM 240z taillights. Thanks, Charles

I assume space is the problem and you want to remove the spacers for better clearance? I am pretty sure Travel n Man is right and they are to reduce heat transfer. Bruce Palmer is probably the resident expert on this. Charles

Blue, If your up for that just cut a section out for both bolts (maybe 2"x5" for each side), plasma cutter if you have it or die drinder, might need a 90 degree die grinder to get access. Get the bolts out the back side once it's out, then make backer plates for both areas. Put some holes in the bolt plates and around the perimeter of the hole (5/16" dia). Plug weld the backer plates into the boxes first, make holes for the suspension boltsa to pass into, then weld the plates with the bolts in against the backer plates. Weld all the joints solid and fill all the holes. Stronger than the orignal. You will have to take it easy with the heat. Wait a while between welds or cool with air or things will "oil can" on you. Even the thicker metal on our cars is not very thick and warps easily. Spent all day today fabbing up a new battery tray area, today. Slow work but stronger in the end. I think I would prefer this method over the tap and die work if the bolts won't drill. If you want, a die grinder and some 2" Roloc discs and the welds can be worked back down smooth. Will look like brand new... Charles

OK :mad:, that looks like fun not! It's too bad the car is not on a rotisserie but that does make more sense now that I see it. I agree they will have to be drilled out. Which could be a real chore from under the car on your back. I would also try not drill the whole bolt at once but step up. If it gets off center some times the tap will pull out the partial thread. The bolts are probably pretty hard from the factory, but the quenching may have worked against you. I don't think you have an easy fix Charles

Blue, Which bolts are we talking about? Are we talking about the two long studs that hang down for the mustache bar or some other bolts. I can't think of any other bolts in the rear supsension that can't be removed and replaced. The two mustache bolts that hang through the floor I thought were removeable from up top, but I am not sure. I probably wouldn't try to weld them back if I didn't half to. I weld some and I would be hard pressed to trust welded bolts in the suspension. Charles

Let's start with budget. How fast do you want to spend? From all my research stroker is going to cost more per HP, turbo is easier horse power to make. I agree with Blue ITB's would be fun but they are not terribly cheap either. So what is your budget for this build, $1000, $2000, $3000, $4000, $5000 or more? What are you thinking? Charles

European balance tubes are available. I believe Z therapy has them or something very similar if you want a cleaner look Charles

It depends how cold it gets where you are and whether the car is cold natured and if it will see cold weather at all. Plenty of people don't run heated manifolds. Also according to the Z therapy video you need to run some kind of air horn or you will lose a lot of power. The stock air cleaner evidently works as well as almost any other air horn or you could order after market air horns and filter them somehow. By the way that is a fabulous looking car, British car, British Green i believe, driving lights. Very nice... Charles

I have used Fedhill before too and it is very nice line. Because it is so soft sometimes it is hard to make your lines nice and straight, but that also seems to make it flair easier. I would have preferred to use the fedhill flairing tool. It is not cheap to buy but they have a rental plan... http://store.fedhillusa.com/flaringtools.aspx Thay were very helpfull and easy to deal with. Charles

Does anyone have any ideas on what gauge metal or does it need to be a certain type? Charles

One other option is to take Arnes advice but convert the head to solid lifter there are a number of threads at hybrid z about this because the hydraulic lifters are NLA and sometimes collapse when dirty or pushed too hard. The guys on HybridZ sometimes push the limits on these engines. If you do decide to convert the head the old lifters can probably be Ebayed. The P90 and P90a heads are good heads and flow pretty well. So that would be another way to get where you want to go. Charles

That sounds like it would work, but I was looking for a restoration type solution... Thanks, Charles

I don't know the proper name for the rubber coated strips of metal welded to the inner fenders that fold around the electrical harness and hold it in place. I had always thought they were some special metal, but I am beginning to believe they are light gauge steel coated with rubber. Well the problem is they like to break right at the bottom. Has anyone made any replacements or are they available any where? If not does anyone have any ideas for fabbing some up? On a side note they appear to be differnet in my 73' 240z versus the earlier cars. Thanks, Charles

Agreed, timing is everything. I will have to look around the big box stores. I have never seen swaging tools in our Depot or Lowe's. That's interesting. I am a contractor and know the stores pretty well... I might have gone that route if I knew they had them in stock, but didn't want to have to order a tool online and wait and shipping, etc. Charles

I found some that were similarly priced. Then buy some swages, but if you are going to do only one cable, then you only need two and you only need the swager twice. For $3.60 of cable and $.98 of tee nuts I replaced the cable with the tools I had at hand. Both ways should work fine, but if I wanted a cable that matched the factory exactly I would just buy a new reproduction. The point was to get a satisfactory result as economically as possible. Charles

Most of the swaging tools I have seen are expensive and you would have to find the right size swage. As well as buy a box of swages. I considered that but opted for a technique that fit the tools I already had or that many people would have access to. Thanks, Charles

Did anyone ever figure out how to install the upgrade into the 73 240z or 260z w/ intermittant wipers and retain the delay feature on the stalk? Either reworking the factory delay box or reworking the harness to retain the delay wiper control from the stalk. Thanks, Charles

Thanks, Arne I was hopeing to put enough key words into the title so a reasonable search would pick it up. There is a tremendous amount of good info on these forums, but finding it can be hard sometimes. I hope it helps... Charles

I had done some searching for emergency brake repairs and where to go from here. I had a broken parking brake on a 240z. I took the idea that Beandip had and went with that. I went to Home Depot and bought about 8' of 1/8" unjacketed and 3/32 jacketed cable. I also bought some 1/" tee nuts like these The problem I saw was not replacing the cable but was how to swage the end with the little cylindrical shape and make it hold. I removed the old cable and rethreaded with new cable. I chose to use the unjacketed cable because it was thicker and the exisitng cable was unjacketed. I then placed a tee nut over the end of the cable with the spiked flange at the very end (the end towards the wheel). I took my mig welder and welded around the end of the cable on the flange side. I didn't weld from the inboard side because I was worried about buring the cable in two and that would make it too short. I then clipped the flange off as close as possible and finished shaping on my bench grinder. The inboard end of the remaing tee nut did not fit very close to the cable so for some extra insurance I used JB Weld to fill the cylinder on the inboard side. I assembled the cable all up and installed all of the springs and brackets etc. I then ran the excess through the other tee nut and welded the other end where I marked it for length. I made the new cable 1/2" to 3/4" shorter than the original to account for the stretching of the original cable. When I welded the second tee nut I accidently burned the cable off, which is OK but substanitiated my fear of not welding from the inside. I epoxied the second end and lubed everything up real well and installed. Seams to work real well and has a very factory look. Sorry I don't have any other pictures. If you don't have access to a welder, epoxy might hold the ends if you get them degreased properly. The tee nuts have threads inside them so they will bond very easily. Or as an alternative you might be able to solder the ends on the cable. If the cable is clean and fluxed the silver should bond to it OK. I thought I would post this up since the cables are hard to find in good used condition and putting a new $300 cable on a car I have $1000 in didn't make sense at the moment. Hope this helps and have a good Mother's Day Charles I didn't have any pictures when I made the cable so I went back and made an end so I could make pictures, since everyone likes pictures Original cable ends Ready to weld Welded up Snip the excess, then grind down I filled this area with epoxy Finished end

I believe they are similar. They are mentioned in the Z therapy video. I believe they are Stromberg's and have a diaphragm in them. That looks like an XKE... Charles

Emailed J C Whitney the other day... "Trying to find current part numbers for these older part numbers so I can order these door weatherstrip 13SB2561U comes in 25' lengths 18B4877X 8' lengths fuzzy strip 19SB3480P for 6' Thanks, Charles" Here is the response Thank you for contacting us. The first item is sold out and discontinued. But the below links are the other 2 numbers: http://www.jcwhitney.com/all-rubber-window-channels/p2009944.jcwx?skuId=170761&filterid=j1&_requestid=2287141 http://www.jcwhitney.com/inner-and-outer-belt-weatherstripping-universal/p2008570.jcwx?skuId=172892&filterid=j1&_requestid=2288170 Please feel free to contact us if you have any additional questions. Sincerely, Holly Does anyone know if they still have a weatherstrip profile that will work for the door seals? Their online catalog is pretty useless... Charles

Looking at your picture the vent line from the top rear of the tank in the highest section of the tank. Take it loose from the vapor tank and see if you tank will take fuel then, provided that line is clear. That one line is responsible for allowing the use of the upper portion of the tank. If that line is crimped over or pinched the tank won't take fuel. I believe when you drive around the tank is belching air back into the filler neck and then it will take more fuel. If the tank isn't collapsed I believe your problem is between that vent port and the vent line at the top of the filler neck. I believe there is a drain off the vent tank that connects to the filler neck just below the cap. That allows the air to escape the tank after fuel fills above the neck of the tank. Charles

Can the Precision products be bought directly or only through a third party? Thanks, Charles