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dano

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About dano

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    Kaneohe, HI
  1. Hi Folks, Wanted to share some additional information regarding this in the off chance it changes something. I used the http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ engine calculator to determine the specs on the L26 engine I have. Turns out from the factory it had a compression ratio of about 8.2:1. I didn't realize it but the L26 shipped with dished pistons (7cc in case anyone was wondering). Using that same calculator I got a compression ratio of about 8.245:1 for the E88/F54 combo. Is this one of those cases where not all compression ratios are created equal? Thank you so much to everyone (esp Arne) for helping me to understand all this stuff!
  2. Charles, Thanks! The way I understand it though I'd also have to swap to flat-top pistons to bring the compression level back up to a reasonable level? I've also read good things about the P90 heads and was hoping this one would "just work" for me .
  3. Zed Head, thanks! Arne, thanks for the additional information. Looks like I'll swap back in the original engine and try and sell off the turbo one. Thanks all for the help!
  4. Arne, thanks for the information. I do, unfortunately, have the hydraulic P90A head. When you say low compression, what is too low on these motors? I've been reading threads and have seen everything from 11:1 to 8-something:1 with little information on the minimum acceptable number. If it means anything I did run the F54 block-L26 head combo through the engine calculators and came up with about 8.3:1 compression. Blue, thanks for the input. Unfortunately living in Hawaii shipping in a cylinder head is really costly . Btw are you the same Blue that runs the excellent tech tips site?
  5. Hi Folks, I've tried searching the archives but have not found anything relating to this particular setup. As it stands I have a freshly rebuilt L28ET (F54 block, stock dished pistons, and P90A head) installed in my car minus the E and T parts (running with fresh ztherapy SU carbs). For a variety of reasons I won't be able to get the E and T parts installed. Needless to say the car doesn't run great. The goal here is to have something approaching the stock power level so that the car is fun to drive again. To fix it, I figure I have three options: 1. Swap in working-but-worn L26 (from a 11/74 260Z) that I have. It would need a new clutch, but that's it. 2. Swap the head from the L26 (E88 I believe) onto the F54 block that's already in the car. 3. Sell it to someone who has the time to install the E and T parts. I'm leaning towards option 2 because it's the easiest and won't require much time or money (both of which I don't have an excess of). Also, I'd like to get some use out of the fresh motor if at all possible. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
  6. Sorry to hear about that! I recently faced the same specter of "part in the front cover" myself. (I got lucky, it wasn't actually in there.) I've managed to pull and replace the oil pan with the engine in the car. It wasn't fun, but it is possible. Good luck!
  7. Thank you to everyone that replied! I've managed to turn my garage upside down and locate the original bolts. So Arne, thank you very much but will not need to take you up on your offer at this time. I'm going to e-mail Zedd Findings and see what they say. Will post it back here. I've not got the best record in the world with Home Depot car hackery, so keeping that as the backup option for now. Thanks all! -Dan
  8. Hi Folks, Long time lurker, first time poster. I've searched for this and unfortunately haven't found anything. Does anyone know where I could get the rubber seals (gaskets?) for the stock SU air cleaner? This would be for the early air cleaner (non flap, non heat-riser tube). I am thinking about getting rid of my individual round K&N filters and going back to the stock air cleaner box. Oh, and would anyone happen to have an extra set of bolts for the air cleaner? I'm missing one of the wing-nut/inner bolt pairs. You know, the one that holds the outer shell to the mounting plate and the bolt that goes inside the air cleaner between the outer bolt and the mounting plate. Thanks! -Dan
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