Patcon

I totally understand. It takes two years to get to anything on my list and I am 6 years in on my restoration.

I am locked out of my Amazon account currently so I can't totally confirm this, but I believe this is the one I bought. Judging by the one review https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Master-Universal-Joint-ATV700/dp/B000GZRASO

Also the metal tabs from the floor have a clip that holds them down

Two 2 - 1/4" pipes (7.96 squ in) is even larger than a single 3" (7.08 squ in). Even the two 2 -1/8" (7.10 squ in) is even larger. I found this on another forum: "As an owner of a 3.2L Rebello engine I would recommend what Dave uses on his dyno (and what I have on my 240), a Sebring Tuning muffler and either a 2.5 or 3-inch custom bent exhaust pipe." That's a 3.2L. A good bit bigger than what you're building and a $3000+ Rebello head that breathes really well. BTW those kind of heads are really not a do it yourself kind of thing...

3" exhaust seems excessive. A turbo build might be different, but on an NA motor larger exhaust isn't always better

I used the Kawasaki u joint Posts #76 and an issue with the joint in #176

Thanks Damon! I may PM you if I need some help, so we could work out a plan. Thanks, Charles @Mark Maras Thanks, Mark

I have to tuck my tail bone in every chair or car I have ever been in, so I guess that is my default position. I also like to recline pretty good when I drive so that helps keep my head off the ceiling. ?

It would be nice if you made a thread for this conversion when it happens. It might help some of us that may end up needing some additional back brakes or have issue with the maxima conversion. A pictorial thread would be especially nice.

I have located a bumper for Cody's car just outside Eugene but the seller doesn't want to ship. If anyone could help me out and get the bumper and ship it to me, I would cover the shipping and try to compensate for the time it takes. I am pulling stuff together for his 18th birthday presents later this month. Thanks, Charles

I shot lizard skin heat shield on the inside of the roof skin and pretty much all of the floor area and fire wall. Then I shot sound deadener over all that and the inside of the doors, quarters and spare tire well. I shot under-coater over the entire bottom side of the car up to the entrance to the tunnel, where I switched to the engine bay paint. I also shot under coater on the inside of the fenders and all the wheel wells got it when I did the under side of the car. All of he under coater was shot over epoxy primer. You can probably tell how I did my build thread.

They are a thin rubber tube, like a radiator hose but thinner and no cording. They can dry rot and crack or come loose from the drain neck

I am working on sourcing some custom lines for my conversion

I would say no. Leave it alone and enjoy driving your tuned Z!

THAT SUCKS! I hope it helps! Go ahead and get some bullseye type mirrors to spread around the car as your looking over your shoulder will be diminished.

I don't know what it would take to mail you some screws but I have a set that has the little screws in it. I am sure I have 4 extra...

The best way to tell the difference is the bottom line of the frame. The small bracket is sort of rounded with two convex humps. The large frame is straighter with a concave indention. I have the smaller frames. I didn't know there was an option Good to know Chickenman! I agree the Ford rear disc upgrade is pretty nice because they are so readily available and have a good selection of pads to choose from.

Is this correct? I haven't heard of this. Your existing bushing looks like a bushing that has had the rubber core removed and cleaned up. Most of the time these have poly bushings installed in them. If you want to use the new bushing you will need to remove the old bushing shell from the bar. Press the new bushing in and flare the edges. I know someone that has flaring dies but I am not sure they are available for use internationally. You would need a hydraulic press to flare the ends. You might be able to get some dimensions for how to make the dies and have some made locally for the same amount of money for the shipping and import duties. On flipping the bar, I don't know

Many times the water is from bad door seals, cowl drain tubes cracked or mis-installed or rust in the cowl area. Especially around the fresh air vent stack. Normally rust from the plug holes themselves eats the holes larger and the plugs fall out

I remember that now. I think Jim is understanding what I was referring to. You can see what looks like 3/4 of a seal coming out between the control arm face and the strut tube. Yeah, I didn't see anything on the diagram.

I don't know about using those on a car but they would be perfect on my invisible fence...

So worked on the brakes some more today I received the disc from Rockauto StopTech disc Centric 12742011 L&R this is a 240z disc that I am using with toyota 4 piston calipers Centric 12742016 L&R this is the 280zx rear disc used with the maxima caliper I had to recoat my rear calipers. I had used caliper paint on these a fear yeas ago and this is what happened So I stripped them down in the bead blaster and plated the hardware and repainted them. We will see if it last. If it doesn't I will zinc them or have them zinced by a vendor. This is the pads I have for the rear Here are the rears now I may end up reversing the brake line bracket on top of the hub and run a hard line from there to the caliper but I am trying to get a custom SS line made up. The custom line would run from the chassis bracket straight to the caliper. I have a tip from Fedhill on a source. We will see how that goes. I contacted MSA about just buying their rear lines from the kit but they want $58 for each side just for the lines I have metal masters for the front. It appears that Axxis has been bought or merged with PBR. They don't offer a track ready pad for the 240z but they do for the Maxima rear caliper. That seems odd? Here is a front caliper installed now that I have the right disc I used the short "S" lines I made on the front and twisted them 90d and they seem to work good. I have to find some shorter grade 8 bolts for the calipers. The ones I have are too long but are good place holders for now

Is there a seal that goes between the strut and the control arm on each side to seal that area of the spindle pin? It looks like Jalex has the remnants of a seal showing but I didn't see anything on the carpartsmanual diagram

That's a lot of money for a project z. He can pick up a complete drive train for $1000 or less. So paint and a drive train and you have a car, but the floor boards will need work. I think when they get cleaned up there will be holes in them. Also the tire well may have holes in it. I can't tell if that is jute or not on the left side. Frame rails, battery area and doglegs, who knows? For Florida though this may be a really clean shell. so that may explain the bidding

The top half of that car looks pretty good. The bottom half not so much! 30 or so pictures and no floor board, frame rail or battery pics?????? I mean I realize they might be gone but it would be nice to see them. It is a fairly low number car, but it would have to have limited rust in some of the problem areas for me to consider it a possible project.