Healey Z

Harway, the original poster asked for thoughts and opinions. I provided mine and Hardway can take or leave it. Because you don't share the same thought as I, does not mean I am hating, I am simply providing an opinion based upon my knowledge. I will have to say that I probably have had more Datsuns in my garage than you, but I also probably have a good number of years on you too. The fact that the car has not sold at $3100 says that the car is not being marketed to its best potential or that this is the value. Hardways ad seems reasonably well written and there are similar cars for sale in his area for around that same price point. That being said, my opinion (which Hardway asked for) is that I would take the $2800 if it were presented.

I am in the same boat as Wade. Because your Z doesn't have curb appeal and needs rust repair, it reduces the number of people that would even consider buying it considerably. If you don't want to invest in fixing the rust, paint and mirrors, I think you would are doing well to sell it for $2800.

Nice find! Please do the world a favor and swap those wheels out.

I'd go or the 240z. Remanufactured carbs are $650 or so. If you have patience, interest and some basic tools, you can learn how to remove, replace and tune the carbs. I think I would try offering something closer to $2k and go fom there.

They could have at least taken a garden hose to it.

Wow, a brand new factory disti? How rare is that!

Oh, I feel your pain. The highs and lows of vintage car ownership. Hang in there.

What car cant be lowered to the ground?

and p.s. that is one huge undertaking.

I see entire cars that run, drive with little to no rust that can be picked up for $1500-$2500. All need some work, but sounds like a much better starting point than what you have....look at Craigslist in Sacramento and SF bay area.

If you take an ice pick, can you poke through the under body in the major unibody rail points? Besides the rocker panel, it is hard to tell if the metal is eaten away or just surface rust? Assuming the motor isn't froze, you can try to get it started for only a few bucks. Need a battery, gas can and some hose.

There are too many cars out there to not settle for a cream puff. Salvage titles, shakes when drives, half pulled apart....should not be even considered IMO..

Chaser, Thank you for your service and good luck with your search. I agree with others, it would probably be best to find a local car. With patience you will find a good on.

You will need to attend to the fuel supply system; pump, regulator, filter. The water to the intake will reduce the amount of time it takes for the car run smooth when cold.

Yea, if it ain't broke, don't tinker! MJ I'm smoothing out a balance tube as we speak. I'll have it for sale at a very reasonable price when completed.

My low mile motor $300, intake and servicable carbs $100, air cleaner and linkage another $100 and I now have a great running ride.

Some good things about these cars; they made a lot of them, the motors are bullet proof and they are cheap. You can find a good running used motor for $400-$600 all day long.

2000 F150 DD I bought new, 2005 Pilot and the Z powered Healey

Olzed, Any pics or numbers, throat size? A lot of European cars in the 60's, 70's used SUs.

If it were my motor, I wouldn't spend the time and effort to crack the motor open unless I had strong evidence that it is a problem; nothing you have said so far makes me believe you have spun a bearing. I would see if I could get the motor started in the garage and keep an eye on the oil pressure and listen for sounds. If that checked out in the garage, then take it out on the road at all different speeds and look for a nice long hill to gradually accelerate up. The motor will tell you what it needs if you give it a chance and listen to it.

Assume for a moment that the long block is toast and it will need to be replaced or rebuilt. On the new motor, you would still want to do fresh plugs and have ZTherapy do the seals. I would go ahead and do those two things and give the current motor a try. The only other cost to give the current motor a shot is some gas, oil and some time. It doesn't look like there is much $ to lose by giving the current motor a shot and a lot of $$$$ to gain, if it is in fact usable.

240DW, your the man...exactly what I was looking for. I will try to copy yours

Yea, good 'ol fashion stomp on the pedal manual brakes. What is the second port in the rear of the tube used for?

On my application, I cut off all stands and plugged every hole, except for the PCV port. Does that make sense for 240Z applications? I noticed the Euro balance tube retains that back two port openings.

I have a little project I'm going to do. I have a used and not so perfect Moto Lita wood wheel that is left over from a cobra replica I use to own, that I want to put on my Healey. As you can see it needs some modifications to work. Yes I could go spend $400 on a new one, but the wheel has been hanging around the garage, the ring was $10 and I have access to a welder set up for aluminum and I'm ready for a little project. Which brings me to the second part. I have an extra balance tube that I am going to bring along with me and weld up the top 4 holes, like i did on my current motor, allowing the tube to smoothed out. I will save it for future use, or I will part with it for a reasonable price if anyone is interested. The price will depend on how much work I do, but somewhere between $40-$90, plus $5 shipping.