Gary in NJ

A good place to start is 2.5 turns. From there you can fine-tune as required. Do you own a unisync?

I like this concept from 2008: http://www.autoblog.com/2008/08/20/design-study-nissan-240-fairlady-z-successor/

Not really. A "tweek" here or there, nothing that actually effects performance. The carbs are always well sync'ed. I do enjoy a good sync'ing

I was at the local hobby shop the other day and walked past a display of various clay products and remembered this thread. After looking at and trying to decipher the different "properties" of the products I settled on DAS modeling clay in white. I chose white so I could see when the clay was dirty. I had two test subjects for the clay experiment; my 2007 Audi A4 daily driver that has only been washed at a car wash about 10-15 times since new and has never been waxed, and my son's 2001 Eclipse that was just flat out dirty with very dry looking paint. Both cars were washed well. The water in the buckets turned black and had to be replenished half-way for both cars. After the cars were cleaned we broke open the package of modeling clay. I used a Meguiars spay wax/cleaner as a lubricant on my surface and Connor used a bottle of soapy water. The process was fairly straight forward; spay the surface and then rub the bar on the surface. Connor used up-n-down followed by left-n-right motions while I used random motions (to determine if one style was better then the other). We couldn't determine if there was any difference in the motion. The DAS clay was quite soft and easy to work with. When a section was done we'd hand rub the surface and then hose down the section to remove the clay. It's worth noting that this was a wet process. At no time did we allow the clay to get hard or dry on the surface. From time to time there were clumps of clay that had to be hit with a good stream of water. I saw on Youtube that some allowed the clay to dry on the surface and then buff the surface. I saw this as more of a wet polish process. I'd be interested to hear from those that allow the clay to dry. Half-way through the process we decided to exchange spay bottles. I found that the difference between the wax/wash and water/soap was negligible. Connor said the same. I wouldn't spend the money on a cleaner. After the cars were done we did a final rinse while hand rubbing. When it was all said and done, the cars were clean and smooth. That was the point. Both cars received a coat of wax and were buffed to perfection. I did note that the wax (I use NuFinish liquid) went on much smoother then a surface that is simply cleaned with soap and water. So I believe that the clay bar process did in fact remove more dirt then just washing. Given the poor condition of the surface of each car I think this was a worthwhile effort. I would do it again. Cost: the package of clay was $6 and we could easily get three cars out of a single package. Like I said above, I wouldn't spend the money on a spay wax as it didn't produce a superior result nor did it speed the process. All in all, I think the generic approach works well. $2 per cleaning vs. $20 for the Meguiars kit. One final thought, for those that said that they are getting color or paint in the clay, you have a paint problem. The clay glides on top of the surface and just removes dirt. It is not a rubbing compound. It is incapable of removing scratches and swirls. It's just a cleaner...that is all. It isn't the end-all be-all magic surface prep tool.

Back in 1988 my wife and I were car shopping for her. She wanted an Accord Coupe and I wanted her to like the RX-7. We test drove both. I really enjoyed driving the RX, but in the end my wife's natural "be practical" instincts took over and she chose the Accord (5sp). I've always regretted going to the Mazda dealership first.

Zing! Great little tool Blue. It's a good reminder that a seasonal change in temperature can result in a full turn of the mixture wheels. I always re-sync the carbs after any adjustment to the nozzle wheels. I'm I just being overly concerned? Do others just turn-n-go?

Regarding the carb with the "dropped piston", have you confirmed that the piston/needle move freely without binding? Have you conducted a vacuum leak test with a can of carb cleaner? Have you checked the linkage for binding or high over-throw in certain locations?

It's a lean condition. Fast Woman will be here soon to tell you how to fix it

Just because the odo reads 22,500 doesn't mean that the car doesn't have 122,500 or any other interval of 100,000. I highly doubt that someone would pull the engine, transmission and have to repaint a vehicle with only 22,500 miles. If the seller is willing to lie about that, what else are they holding back. Purchase Arne's car. The history of that 240 is well documented right here.

Outstanding. When can you get mine done

You can rent a ball joint press kit from your local Advance Autoparts store..

I just looked at the ad. That is not a 2.0L. Also, despite his description, there doesn't seem to be anything special about the SU's. While it would be interesting to own a Fairlady, it would never want to be sen in a 2+2. Just my own opinion.

We all like a good story. I'd be very interested in following your progress to learn how your shell compares to Nissan's original design.

That has been my method for 30 years.

The car was originally 115 Blue Metallic. This repaint appears to be very close to the original color.

Standard threads. Give it some "yo' and it will go. Maybe a plastic hammer.

I made these: http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/photo-13.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/photo2-10.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/photo4-6.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/photo5-3.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/photo2-11.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/photo-14.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/photo3-10.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/photo4-7.jpg http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/zz263/GaryCorde/photo5-4.jpg

Lifting the piston leans the mixture that then passes the throttle plate.

Cool videos Blue.

The OP stated that he has 3-screw carbs, an indication that the '74 carbs are no longer installed.

There is a slot for a small screwdriver on the bottom side of the know. Just loosen the screw about one turn. No need to remove the entire panel. The jam nut is on the face side.

The jam nut may have come loose on the switch. Remove the knob and check the jam nut.

It's Friday and it's going to be a slow one at that. So I'd figure I'd start a thread for those looking to post non-sense... I'm a big fan of Top Gear USA. The season got off to a slow start last year, but within four or so episodes Rutledge Wood, Tanner Foust and Adam Ferrara found a groove and actually started to entertain their audience. I have always found Ferrara to be a funny guy, but by the end of the season Rutledge Wood was just knocking it out of the park. The three hosts have chemistry and charm (juvenile charm...just up my ally) and are welcomed into my home every Sunday evening. The photography and cinematography are simply outstanding too. OK, now on to The Car Show. Like TGUSA, it seems to be off to a slow start. Adam Carolla is truly a funny man and knows cars. Matt Farah also appears to be the real deal with car knowledge. However Dan Neil is a pompous boor and John Salley clearly isn't a car guy. The show is disjointed, stiff and worse, the hosts are devoid of any chemistry. The show can be salvaged. The producers need to: 1) Stop trying to be Top Gear 2) Ditch Dan Neil and John Salley 3) Find a way to entertain the audience.

Right, If you remove the screw from the bottom of the nozzle and move the arm out of the way, you should be able to remove the nozzle (give it a twist). From there you can clean and lube it.

You're going to have to explain this one a bit more. The SU's don't have a traditional choke plate. It's actually an enrichment circuit where the fuel nozzle is lowered, allowing for extra fuel to be present at the venturi. If the nozzle is frozen, hit it with some WD-40 ( from the top side) and then you should be able to get it free. After it is free you'll want to polish the nozzle and the chamber. When it is reinstalled apply white grease to the nozzle before it is reinserted into the carb body.