Mike

@=Enigma=, I know it's been a few years since you asked this question. The triple SU's were very unique and pulled hard. They weren't mine and built by Steve at Ztherapy. He wanted to make a point by building something that other said "could not be done..." In the end, Steve installed my triple Mikuni's which I think sound much better. ? Mike

Decided to update my build thread with some of my latest photos in 2019. Old thread, time to bring her back to life after installing new VTO wheels and BFG summer tires... Both new wheels/tires here: New fronts: New in front (no caps), and old wheels on the rear.. Both new wheels on the passenger side: Old wheels on the rear, driver side, just for comparison... Here's the fit on the rears...

Just saw this... Kats, any chance you can send me contact info for the bracket? I found something on Facebook but not sure if it's the same company or not.. Thanks for all your help. You've renewed my passion for my own car since I drove your Z432 in Kyoto.. ? Mike

Any hints on where I should look for a source in Japan? Kats sent me some links for other stuff in Yahoo auctions, but, I couldn't find anything on this pump bracket..

Ok, even if that was happening wouldn't you hear it? I remember driving my car and hearing the knocking sound when I was tuning my engine (the old fashioned way). I would think you should be able to adjust the system to a desirable setting on the fly with that bluetooth controlled system. I would think this could only happen if the car was running this way for a long time. Unless there was something else wrong with the engine, this may not just happen overnight.

Here's to Otis and all of our fallen heroes this Memorial Day...

Hi guys, I'm not too familiar with this product in question so please bear with me. Is it even possible for an electrical system to destroy engine components as described? I thought valve timing and such was controlled by the camshaft and timing chain -- making it impossible for an electrical system to cause a failure. I'm with Zed Head, it may be two different issues that happened at the same time.

Where'd you find this? I'm looking for one.. ?

Found some references you may be interested in reading. Information about a bracket to hold the electric pump and it applies to both SU's and Triple carb setups. They also reference a great write-up by Dave on his 1972 modification. Looks like he went with the Airtex. http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2013/01/electric-fuel-pump-installation.html

Unfortunately I cannot seem to locate the flow-rate requirement in the Mikuni manual. I'll do some more searching on the web. Some of the sites that carry the Nismo pump are saying it works with Weber carbs. Not sure if that carb setup has the same requirement or not.

I contacted Steve Epperly today (ztherapy) about switching out my fuel pump. He said Mikuni’s should have the capability to take higher compression pumps. According to him, a pump designed for a fuel injected system should also work. He did say the Holley I’m currently using is loud. He uses the Holley pump on his race cars all the time. But they just make a lot of noise. He didn’t have a specific alternative for me, but was extremely helpful in understanding my options. For the SU guys - He also mentioned the SU’s absolutely need a low pressure pump. You can’t give them too much pressure (definitely should not use pumps designed for fuel injection) FWIW Mike

Love those guys... they really know how to follow their passion.. My dad was like that too..

Thanks! I wonder what the Mikuni's require.. (russells around trying to find the Mikuni manual) Aha! Found it... Now I just need to convert it to PSI... oh wait!! 2.84 lb/in² - 4.98 lb/in² *IS* 2.84 - 4.98psi Now searching for something to reference the volume requirements...

I believe it's the Nismo 17010-A7601. Not sure if 1.3L/min @ 29kPa/4.2psi is enough for the Mikunis though. Not sure what they require, but I am liking the Airtex more and more due to its simplicity. Edit: Nevermind, the part number above appears to be for the HIGH flow version. Still looking for the low flow version for carbs.. m

I've been using the Holley Premium Red Electric fuel pump. It's a great pump, but, a bit too loud for my taste. I want something a little less noisy. I'm running triple Mikuni's, so I'll need something compatible. Not sure if this one will be any less noisy but I'm strongly considering the Nissan Nismo pump (if I can even find one). Zcardepot.com has them listed, but, out of stock. The K&N from MSA you listed above looks interesting.. Airtex is also a possibility... I do like the simple design of the Airtex. It doesn't stand out as aftermarket.

I made a call to Les Cannaday at CDM, he's checking to see if he has an extra that can be refurbished. FYI, I confirmed this morning that mine is leaking out from the large nut on the left side. Nissan couldn't have installed this thing in a more inconvenient location. It's going to be an interesting replacement project.

Hi Rill, thanks for the link! It looks like that one is for a 280z. The earlier 240z model has some differences. I appreciate the help!

Found this reference over at the datsun1200.com website. The same part number is used on other Datsuns as well. Credit: Datsun 1200 Club http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki/index.php?title=Warning_Light_Switch Warning Light Switch From Datsun 1200 Club Datsun 1200 encyclopedia | Recent changes | Edit this page | Page history | Switch to MediaWiki mode Special pages Double redirects Broken redirects Disambiguation pages Log in / create account Preferences My watchlist Recent changes Upload file File list Gallery of new files User list Statistics Random page Orphaned pages Uncategorized pages Uncategorized categories Unused categories Unused files Wanted pages Wanted categories Most linked to pages Most linked to categories Articles with the most categories Most linked to images Articles with the most revisions Short pages Long pages New pages Oldest pages Dead-end pages All pages Prefix index List of blocked IP addresses and usernames Book sources Categories Export pages Version System messages Logs MIME search List redirects Popular pages Search Printable version | Disclaimers | Privacy policy Category: Brake System The braking system of North American 1200s was fitted with a 5-way splitter combined with a pressure failure warning switch. For safety, if a loss of pressure occurs, the Brake lamp lights up on the dash. Album click to view [edit] Overview The switch does not effect brake bias (it's not a Proportioning Valve). Album click to view Album click to view Warning Light Switch (brake line pressure differential) Album click to view Datsun 1200 LHD disk brake model. From the north american factory manual. There are two inputs (front and rear from master cylinder). And three output (two for each front brake, and one output back to the rear brakes. The electrical connector goes to the dash light. [edit] Wiring The brake lamp is fitted to North America 1200s per US federal law. Other 1200s did not have a lamp in this spot until October 1975. Post click for topic See also: Brake Wiring [edit] Part Numbers 46100-U5200 ASSY-SWITCH BRAKE INDICATOR <> 46100-26100 $152 USD * B110 USA * S30 USA See also: Brake Piping Part Numbers#USA ¤

Seem to be getting this a lot...

After looking this up on the Microfiche, the description shows up as ASSY-SWITCH BRAKE INDICATOR. Other posts on our site also suggest this thing really doesn't work for most cars (it didn't on mine because my master cylinder was dry due to a leak). It would be good to get it to function again, but, my main concern is mostly to get the leak fixed so I can get on the road. Here's a shot of the microfiche - Part number 46100-26100 or 46100-U5200

Thumbnail for the post.

View Advert Brake fluid distribution valve Hi all, I'm looking for a new or rebuilt brake fluid distribution valve. This is the one thing I didn't replace during my restoration and it's time to do it. Unfortunately my current one is leaking and needs to be replaced before I drive it this summer. I did a pretty exhaustive search on our club site as well as other sites. Unfortunately, I don't see anyone mention a source to buy these rebuilt (or NOS). I want to keep the stock appearance and not really looking at attempting an upgrade. Looking for the entire valve, including switch. Can you please shoot me a message, or reply to this topic, if you know of a source? I prefer to have it ready to install because I just don't have the shop space to do my own work anymore. Advertiser Mike Date 05/22/2019 Price Category Parts Wanted Year 1971 Model 240z