steve91tt

It had me holding my gut laughing for quite a while. I think it served a great purpose!

The cam was still on #1

There doesn't seem to be any damage. The chain and guides look fine. There isn't much crap in the pan and the cylinder bores look great. I want to know what the po was up to. Head gasket?

When I opened up my timing chain cover I found a chewed up block of wood. I think it's pine.:paranoid: I'm guessing this is the remnants of a DIY timing chain wedge. Apparently a 240Z does not make a good chain saw.

That sucks!

I started on an engine bay / engine refresh project last night. The engine came out without drama. Now for the fun, tear it apart, stuff!

Well said!

I'm taking my first stab at welding when I pull the motor on my 240Z next month. I'll have an experienced welder with me but I hope it turns out as well as yours did. Nice job.

Great work! I wish I had your welding skills.

I think I have the same hinge dip that you describe with my 1973 with the original hatch. I spent a few hours getting the rubber to fit tightly in that location. For me cabin fumes were 95% related to the hatch panel. I put plastic behind it and It didn't look like it was leaking but it was. I found my leaks with temporary bits of tape and plastic. I simply taped up areas of the car until the fumes went away. Great way of narrowing this down.

Beautiful car and photos!

I installed a "you left your lights on" buzzer today. $10 worth of parts and about 20 minutes effort to wire it between the parking light relay and the door pin. Time and money well spent!

I installed an MSD box this afternoon and looks like this fixed the higher RPM stumbing issue. The car pulls harder than it ever has throughout the power-band. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=339403#post339403 I suspect that some other part of the ignition is marginal and the MSD setup compensates for it. For now I am happy with the results although I did not really find the problem.

I installed the MSD this afternoon. About a 2 hour install. I hid it behind the washer bottle, under the drivers side inspection lid so it's very stealthy. You would have to be purposely looking to notice that it was there and I can easily put it back to stock if I needed to. The high RPM stumble seems to be gone (although I have no tach!). The car pulls much harder than it ever has to as high an RPM that I dare to try without a tach. No hint of any hesitation anywhere in the powerband. Very nice. I ordered the MSD and tach adapter together so that I could get the manufactures discount. The tach adapter comes in on Tuesday.

I'm considering installing an MSD 6A ignition box this afternoon. I found a good deal on one locally but the problem is that I have not been able to find a tach adapter. I can order a tach adapter but it won't be in until next weekend. Is there anything wrong with running a 1973 240Z equipped with a MSD box but without a tach adapter or a few days? I know I won't have a functioning tach but will I hurt the tach in the process?

I agree and looks like the problem did not go away. The hunt continues!

Ouch!

Turns out my distributor was 180° out of phase. I pulled the oil pump, rotated the drive pin and after fighting with the firing order (one of my books had 5 and 6 reversed!) the engine seems to run fine. I'm not sure if this was the cause of the miss or not as it seems to be intermittent. Time will tell. Thanks for replying.

While troubleshooting a stumble at 5000 RPM I found what I think is an uneven wear pattern on the inside contacts of my distributor cap. Does this look normal?

That's going to be one beautiful Z! Keep sharing photos.

I think the epoxy should stand up fairly well to under hood temperatures and it should stick fine to the aluminum if you prep the surface correctly and don't put it on too thick. If it's too thick then the difference in the expansion of the aluminum compared to the epoxy will cause stress at the interface during temperature cycles. In other words if it's too thick it could delaminate but this is the case with any hard polymer coating on a heat cycled metal. The epoxy will likely yellow so you will have to topcoat with something that is colorfast in a high temperature environment. You might try engine enamel but make sure that you sand the epoxy first to give the enamel a low gloss surface to stick to. Good luck! I look forward to seeing photos.

The key is the wiring. You can easily hide the alarm itself and alarm warning light can be hidden behind the seatbelt light so that is out of site. The biggest challenge is hiding the relay(s). I suspect that if you take your time and only install a basic alarm system, it would be hard for judges to find. My car is not a show car but all that is visible is a single, underhood relay. It was my first alarm install so it took most of a Saturday figuring things out but with a couple of more hours effort I think it would have been tucked 100% out of site.

Are you happy with the paint color match? I'm pulling my engine next month to do a similar 901 engine bay respray.

I installed a Viper 1002 today. I picked up a refurbished unit for $57 from Amazon. The refurbished unit did not come with any directions but with Dave s writeup and a little Googe everything installed without a glitch and works great. Thanks for the writeup Dave!

I decided to pull my rocker cover this afternoon to see what's what before I pull the engine for a refresh later this year. Everything looked pretty good to my untrained eye. I'm trying to figure out if the motor has ever been apart before or if it has been modified by the PO. 1. Does anyone know if the sealant around this plug looks like it would from the factory or is this evidence of a rebuild? 2. The cam bearing caps have an "A" on them. Is this done at the factory? 3. The cam has red paint on it. Factory?