Mikez73

When I had my z31's I kept a link page like this. I made it because my browser bookmarks are filed pretty haphazardly. Does anybody have one like this for 70-83 Z cars? I was wondering earlier if my '73 came with a rear sway bar from the factory and if so what size was it. It would be great to have a page full of links where you would have a good chance at finding answers to questions like that. If there isn't anything like this and anybody is interested I could make an s30/130 links page like my z31 links page. You could suggest categories and pages to list under those categories.

That's it although it doesn't look like a stock ballast resistor. If you need one I have one that came with a coil I bought.

Ok I kept the t-c rod kits and reused the rubber rear bushings. They looked good BTW. Bought some 24mm bushings for the front bar and some endlinks. Installed the 20mm rear sway bar bushings. Did this car come with a factory rear sway bar? I'm pretty sure the 20mm bar isn't stock anyway. And Howard the garage cat.

Good call. I found some bad stories looking for info on tension rods. A broken t rod is bad news but at the wrong time it could be a disaster. I looked at the parts today in good light and what I thought last night were hard half-bushings were the balls. I was expecting white material. These are black. They look okay except for one having the "guide" extension broken off. I think I'll put them back on. There probably isn't much point in using poly bushings on the back side? It's surprising that BD and MSA don't sell replacement parts for the t/c rod kit. I read a couple of posts where people thought the balls were delrin. Maybe the kits now use delrin but I don't think these are delrin. I've got some delrin but I don't know if it's thick enough to shape a replacement ball.

Saturday: removed front sway bar...prepped and painted. Today went to install it with new bushings and...the bar is 24mm and I have 20mm bushings :stupid: If anybody need some 20mm Prothane bushings cheap let me know I think the rear bar is 22mm but I'm going to measure for sure. Seems like big bars for a 240z. I think my shiro had 24 and 26mm bars. I need to order end links too. The bushings are squashed and the hardware is gnarly. Removed the compression rods and wirebrushed the surface rust from the mounts and rods. Used rust treatment, I'll prime and paint tomorrow night. Found these: I'm assuming that and the one just like it from the other side are "TC rod kits"? And there should be a ball in each? The ball is gone. I think I'll just install poly bushings and put those kits in a box. Johnny'O would prolly have had this done in 15 minutes

I don't know that this will help but for what it's worth...a while back I bought a new rebuilt 280zx D6K8 distributor. I could never get the thing to work. Bought another one. Got spark with that one and the car tried to start but never quite caught. I started from the beginning...set TDC. Still no good. I noticed the crank timing mark was way off. I turned the crank pulley timing mark to 0 degrees and checked. The rotor was pointed towards the rear of the engine. When the dizzy was rebuilt the tech installed the top shaft backwards 180 degrees off. You may want to set your crank timing mark to 0 degrees and check. That may not help but since you have fuel and spark all you should need is compression at the right time. Or spark at the right time :stupid: BTW, since you have a perfect 3psi I'm wondering what fuel pump you have.

Rubber? I swear these are cork material. I'll see if I can improvise something. I can probably look at the housing and get an idea of what shape it needs to be but if anybody has a pic that would be helpful. Just the cushion. Everything else is good. Also, does anyone know the length of the mechanical fuel pump bolts? I can get the thread pitch but I'm not sure how thick the spacer is so I can only guess at the length I need. I have several sizes of stainless socket head bolts so I'm hoping I've got something I can use.

Cool. Is the cushion part made of cork? Mine are so crumbly I can't tell what the original shape was.

I worked at an auto auction a couple of summers and found some really creative security "enhancements." For example the starter motor wouldn't engage unless you flipped the left turn signal on etc. Then again there were some real dogs that went through the auction so it might have just been faulty wiring The pager and 357 sound like the best bets.

That is a cool looking little car. First time I've seen one. Reminds me of something. A 60's Dodge Charger maybe?

Ok I decided to try a mechanical fuel pump. I had to order one online to get what I wanted. I got a spacer and a couple of extra gaskets too in case the new pump doesn't come with them. I think I'll need to find some longer bolts.

It has to get worse before it gets better At least it's back on now. It looks pretty good after I got the filler shaped and sprayed some sealing primer on it. I'll get pics of that later. BTW does anybody know a part number or a reasonable facsimile for the cushion material in the whatchacallit in the upper left? Mine are like crumbly cork. Oh and doesn't this look cool. I saw a lot of pics of cars when I was looking for an s30 and what I thought was rust on a lot of them I know now was probably adhesive residue. And that stuff is damned hard to remove...

Where did I go wrong?

There The worst rust I found on my car was under the cowl.

I bought some shifter bushings from nosms. No problem. I guess I got lucky. There is a guy here in Houston that sells a lot of Z parts. I absolutely will not buy from him. He sells Nissan parts that are available from Nissan at a fraction of what he charges. And he will rape you on shipping.

Ok I did some more reading on that supplement and peeled the tape off the harness and you were pretty much right on. Maybe Nissan jumped the gun on my 2/73 or the original owner had a dealer install the "upgrades". The problem is that this circuit isn't connected to my fuel pump but it does prevent the starter from cranking if the b/y wire is removed from the solenoid. In the first pic you can see where the b/y (b/faded-white?) wire from the solenoid goes to a green multi-connector and the b/y goes to the relay you pointed out. You can also see the blue tap that the PO used to get 12v to the fuel pump. It's on a b/w wire from the white connector. In the second pic you see a green wire from relay B and a green wire from the 4 pin plug that feeds relay A go to two 2 pin plugs with a b/w jumper wire. Those wires are very long. You can see part of them coiled up and zip-tied to relay B in the first pic.

Just keep looking. Something similar happened to me. I saw a Z on CL but before I could make a deal the owner put it on ebay and got more than he was asking. I was pretty disappointed but...I ended up with a better car for less money. You never know

"IT'S ANOTHER" There, I'm in... :pirate: I sympathize with you but I envy you. I haven't been able to drive mine in a long time

I'm just screwing around with some cosmetic stuff. I'm blacking out some shiny parts. I need some blackout tape for the window trim. Thinking about painting the door handles. Here's what I've got so far:

That looks cool Frank but...are your carbs leaking?

"Completely Unmolested"...Aha...now I have a much better understanding of the advice I got

My manifold doesn't even have fittings for water lines. From my z31 turbo days...everybody's goal was to eliminate hot water percolating near the intake to whatever degree possible. Water lines to the TB and plenum were eliminated. Guys with completely custom intakes eliminated coolant from the intake completely. They had the fastest cars. Of course this is EFI turbocharged cars so completely different animal. I would still think keeping the air and fuel as cool as possible would have benefits performance wise even on a carbed car. I wonder if anyone here uses water/alcohol injection?

If I had an extra 40 bux burning a hole in my pocket and needed cables I'd think about those. I like that flag connector idea but it needs to be L shaped. Did you paint your starter? The engine bay looks good.

No, I'm with you. Your instructions were good...I just can't find a g/l wire. I looked at the FSM schematic and I traced out it's path but I can't find it at the switch or the fuse block. I'll look again today. madkaw...I've wired up dual fans. I even used some of my weather pack stash left over from my shiro. A fuse block and a relay block would tidy the wiring up though. I'm not a believer in the "e-fans free up HP" theory so I may go back to the mechanical fan at some point.

I can't find a green/blue. And I'm not even surprised by this