tanny

Since the e brake adjusts the rear brakes automatically, maybe your adjuster is not working correctly. Which way does the car pull when you apply the emergency brake? Victor.

Beandip, I totally sympathize. I've been rebuilding my 73 since last fall and there really is no end to things to work on with this car, especially if you let yourself get too anal. I think you have to sit down at some point and force yourself to ignore all the things you COULD do to improve the car, and get on with putting it back together and using and enjoying it. There really is no limit to the amount of money and time you can spend on these things if you want to ignore all the other fun stuff you could be doing. Take off the wheel to inspect the inside of the rim for cracks and because you have the wheel off you might as well replace wheel bearings, seals, ball joints, tie rod ends, bushings, put in 4 piston brakes, heavy duty sway bar, adjustible strut cartidges, higher performance springs, new rims, shims, new tires, blah, blah, blah, ad infinitum. Maybe an engine rebuild and a new interior. You think that if you don't do all this, you'll regret it later. I'm retired and I still don't have enough time or money. Put it back together and enjoy driving it. Victor.

Man that picture makes me feel like squat. My silver 73 still has it's totally, deeply oxidized paint(it's actually very dull gray at this point). Need to hurry up on the paint job. Your Z looks nice and shiny. (Something to be said for cosmetics. Even though I have the mechanicals and interior on my Z in pretty much great shape at this point, I still have to look at that nasty old paint). Victor.

Zedrally and/or 2manyzs: I am rebuilding my flat tops at the moment and was wondering if you guys had any tricks or advice on making these run well. I am desmogging these carbs and was wondering about the vacuum operated accelerator pump. I don't really have any info on how this pump works. Does the vacuum come strictly from the venturi effect in the carb or is there some vacuum line that I need to leave attached to the carb that is the vacuum source for the accelerator pump? I'm removing all water lines and servos etc. and want to be sure not to remove anything that is necessary to the basic operation of the carb. Hopefully you can understand my ramblings, and this info may also help alordzot. Thanks, Victor.

I was ordering Two KYB front cartridges from tire rack(they were the cheapest for KYB that I found) and decided just to get four of them from there. They're $10 apiece. Victor.

Yes, the screw in type is much easier and you can test the compression without a helper. Victor. Be sure to warm up the engine before you test and take out all the plugs.

I just received a set of old stock springs for the 240 and the right spring is definitely longer than the left. I also noticed that my new springs both have a blue paint mark on them and the old right front spring has a blue paint mark and the old left front spring(the shorter one) has a reddish brown paint mark. I think what I got on Ebay was two right front springs. Does anyone know if it would cause any problems to use the two right front springs on the front? Would the car sit wrong and have alignment problems or would the difference really be insignificant? I could use the new right front and the old left front, but obviously I'd like to use both new ones if I can. Thanks, Victor.

Yes, the groove looked clean and the leak is definitely coming from the seal. I'm wondering if maybe the groove on the fuel sensor might be warped, I didn't really inspect it that closely. Or maybe the hold down tangs that the retainer turns into are not tight enough. As soon as I get below 1/2 tank I'll rip it out and take a better look. Thanks, Victor.

Carl, Thanks for the reply. I ordered four cartridge boots with the bump stops attached for the KYB cartridges. Hopefully those will work. Victor.

I replaced the fuel tank sending unit o-ring and it still seeps gasoline. Any suggestions on how to seal better? Is there some type of sealer that I could apply to the o-ring that might help with the sealing but not bond the sending unit in place? Wishful thinking probably. Thanks, Victor.

I have a similar question. There is an upper strut bearing on the front struts and a spring spacer on the rear struts. Should these automatically be replaced when you put in new cartridges, or are they usually durable enough to reuse? Also, in the pictures these parts look similar. Do they perform the same function? Is the only function of the bump stops to prevent hard bottoming out of the cartridge? I also found a bunch of crumbled plastic like chunks(hardened, brittle rubber?) of material at the bottom of the springs. What is that? Thanks, Victor. Don't mean to steal this thread, just thought this was closely related.

I took a chance and bought a couple of supposedly new OEM front springs for the 240(they were advertised as for the 240 only) on Ebay, but when I measured them they were the right number of turns(10) and spring thickness, but the free length was 15.5 inches on both. The factory specs say they should be 14.1 inches on left, 15.1 inches on right. I'm a little suspicious they may be 260z springs, because 260z factory specs say 15.5 inches for both fronts. But the number of turns on the 260 springs should be 10.75 and the spring wire should be thicker. Seem to be some hybrid springs. Won't be the first time I got zapped on Ebay. Would these springs still be usable for the front or not? Unfortunately they don't have any part number tags, but the seller was going to try to find out from the guy he purchased them from. We'll see. Thanks, Victor.

Thanks you guys. I just didn't want to break anything by forcing it, but it looks like I will need to apply more force and penetrating oil. Victor.

I asked this on a previous thread but no response: When I remove the retainer and try to remove the speedometer pinion assembly from the tranny, it is stuck. I don't know if there is something I am not doing correctly, or could the assembly be corroded in place and I just need to apply more force. Does it pull straight out or do I twist and pull? Anyone with this experience? Thanks, Victor.

240z, That's fine if you already know where the break is, otherwise you might have to paint the whole grid if you do it randomly, and trying to paint a decent looking straight, thin line(even with the tape or the cardboard template method) with the metallic paint was tough for my mediocre skills. Actually it looked kind of crappy also because the paint was clearly a different color than the original grid. Being fairly anal here. If you really want to be a pea brain, go out and buy one of those little 12 volt space heaters(supposed to warm up the car: not a remote chance here in Colorado, as you would know) in the hope that it will defrost your window(I wouldn't have ever been that stupid). Well anyway, good luck. After all this babble, I would think that whether the defroster grid works well or not would have a large influence on the hatch value. I know I would not want a hatch that had no heat. You can probably get an idea of used prices from ebay, as they are sold there fairly often.

Same thing just happened to me. Wife towed me back home 7 miles on dirt roads with a 15 foot tow rope. THAT was exciting! Turned out my tank has plenty of varnish from sitting for 20 years and the varnish clogged my electric pump filter. I imagine it will happen a few more times at least, so I carry my tools and spare filter. Good luck. Victor.

Click on graphic to view larger image. Fig 18 - Testing Rear Window Grid with a DMM Run the engine at idle and set the rear window grid switch to "ON". Connect the black lead from your DMM to one of the vertical "bus bars" and the red lead to the other bus bar. With the meter set to measure DC volts, the display should indicate 10 to 14 volts; a lower reading indicates a loose ground wire. With the black lead of the DMM grounded, touch each grid wire at its midpoint with the red lead. A reading of approximately 6 volts identifies a grid with no opens. A reading of 0 volts indicates the current path is broken between the midpoint and the battery side of the grid. A reading of 12 volts indicates that the circuit is open between the midpoint of the grid line and ground. You can attach a piece of aluminum foil to the black lead and run the foil over the grid line with your finger instead of scratching it with the probe. As you run from bus to middle of grid line the voltage drops as above. This did work on my z and escort. However, when I repaired the grid lines with the metallic paint, those grid lines worked, but not as well as the undamaged lines. Good luck.

I can't remember exactly, but I had the instructions for testing the strips and you actually test the voltage(not resistance) across each individual strip, with the voltage decresing as you move across the strip. Hopefully someone here has the exact instructions. If not, I'll try to find them. Victor.

I'll try to remember to submit the results of my speedometer pinion switch. Since I had no idea what the rear end ratio was, I had to figure from that calculator using rpms, mph, etc. Hope I was right or I wasted 20 bucks. Another question: I tried taking the old speedo gear out of the transmission when I was rebuilding the engine, but it wouldn't budge after I took the retainer off. Any similar experiences or suggestions on removal would be appreciated. Thanks, Victor.

There was no special piece on the inside of the body with my bumper. Just the washer.

On my 73 all there was was a large metal washer on the inside of the body. I would use a lock washer just for insurance. It can't hurt. I just took my bumpers off a few weeks ago. Victor. ps Where did you get the rubber caps for the mounting plates? Mine were pretty well rotted off.

Alan, The Japanese part no.(32703-78103(S30) was the correct no., and I was able to look it up on the Courtesy Nissan site and find it immediately. I then called them to order, and it was no problem. Thanks alot for the research. Victor. Michael, Thanks for the offer, but Iwas able to order it as above.

For some reason I never saw your reply. I always check off email notification but this time I may not have. I was also disappointed that nobody had answered. I'd better just check my questions manually and not depend on the email notification. Thanks alot for the responses. I will check with Courtesy Nissan again and see if this will solve the problem. Thanks again, Victor.

Thanks for responding everyone. I have already found a set of used ones. Victor.

I grew up very similarly to Z kid. Just add in pipe bombs, homemade rockets, and rattlesnake hunting. The amazing thing about the responsibility issue is that it is us, the baby boomers, that have caused it. We have created this litigous society because we not only want someone punished for our stupid mistakes(not ourselves), we also want the easy money that the lawyers promise us we'll make if we just give them their huge commission. But don't blame it on the lawyers, they wouldn't exist if we didn't use them. Come to think of it, my coke that I bought at the golden arches was too cold and it gave me a headache, which made me irritated, which made me take a swing at the employee, who knocked my teeth out. I'm going to sue the Golden Arches and the dentist for doing a poor job and the insurance company for referring the dentist and the guy who gave me boxing lessons when I was a kid. Victor.