Zed Head

That document should be downloaded then uploaded to the Resources area before it disappears. I saved a copy. Not sure which category it might belong in. Maybe the Vintage program should be a separate category. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/ or https://www.classiczcars.com/articles/

I hope this doesn't feel like "doxing" but I found the place you bought the car from. Not that you're hiding it, it's pretty obvious. The ad copy says that it came with Restoration literature. There's a picture of what looks like photocopied pages. Is there anything in there about the engine details? Or is it just vague statements about remanufactured engines? Somehwere out there is some old AER Nissan reman engine paperwork that tells exactly what is done. They were used on more than just the Restoration program cars. I'm here for the puzzle.

Here's a different AER page. It's from 2002 and "Not secure" so can't tell if it's just an internet artifact or current. http://dealer.aermanufacturing.com/manufac/remeng.html They do have a Contact page though. Might send them an email and see if they have some documents. http://dealer.aermanufacturing.com/contact/index.html

Looks like AER is getting absorbed in to bigger corporation. Contracts with Ford and Stellantis. No contact means on their web page. Documents and old-timers probably disappearing. https://www.aersales.com/company-history/ The History page has some odd references but Nissan did get a mention. I assume that it's for all Nissan remans. So, maybe any Nissan reman documentation would be relevant. Not just the Restoration program.

Here are two descriptions showing the possibilities. https://gaynors.com/auto-repair/engine-rebuilding/ "Valve seats are replaced with hardened seats..." https://www.budgetenginerebuilders.com/ "Cylinder heads reconditioned with new bronze guide liners, valve springs, valve stem seals, resurface of valves, seats and head gasket surface area..."

There are different levels though. Sometimes valve seats are checked for wear and just recut, or if they look okay they might just be lapped. Sometimes they are removed and replaced. That's the question at hand. If they were all removed and replaced as part of the rebuild, and the program was done after hardened seats were introduced, then they probably have hardened seats. An old AER document probably has the information.

I think that the fundamental question is about how much and what kind of work was put in to the engines. Were they completely rebuilt, or were they just evaluated for function like a rebuilt alternator? Is there documentation out there about any engine work? If the valve seats weren't replaced then the new owner is in the same boat as if it was an original 240Z. It would be interesting to see the "work orders" for a Nissan Vintage Restoration Program car. I've only seen anecdotes and old publications about the program, but not the official communications from Nissan.

Looks like a ran-when-parked car. Not sure if they would be able to sell it as a complete titleable car. Might be worth an inquiry for somebody. As I recall, they used to sell complete cars for about $1100 dollars. Probably up around $1500 now. The basic scrap value. https://www.row52.com//Vehicle/Index/RNDZRjYMUcAnW9fgxc7OhGt2S

Eats, shoots, and leaves? Eats shoots and leaves. Runs, but rough. Runs butt rough. Just kidding. Are there any glue blob marks on the AFM adjustment screws? Match them up if you can find them. Nissan placed a blob of silicone on the wheel after it was set at the factory. What do you mean by "rough"? At idle, during cruising, during acceleration? It's fairly common for the 280Z's to run lean. There's a modification that can be done, described by Blue on his atlanticz pages. He also has an AFM "reset" procedure for AFM's that have been messed with. https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm

as @Zed Head said, pull the spayed ign. Off the terminal and measure the voltage. Black to Gand and red on the spade turn the key to start. I think that he's just answering Yarb's question directly. Seems like you're getting voltage/current to the starter solenoid. Leave the wire off of the spade terminal on the starter and use a jumper wire or a tool like a screwdriver to connect the main battery connection to the spade on the solenoid. You can also run a longer wire directly from the battery positive for convenience. The starter should actuate. If it doesn't then the solenoid contact has probably crapped out. There will be some small sparks and the starter will work correctly otherwise. Make sure the car is in neutral and nobody has their fingers or other things by the fan belt. If you hear a solid click from the solenoid but the starter motor does not spin that's a sign that the starter motor has failed. Yout starter looks pretty crusty. If you try this jumper wire method and everything works then you have a problem with the wire from the ignition switch.

Wow. Was it running like that or was during installation? How's the crankshaft surface? I think that new is avaialble. Z Car Depot IncSearch: 11 results found for "damper"New, used, and OEM repair and replacement parts for Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX, and 510.

I was talking about a different problem. You'll know it if it happens. On the loose pins, if it was mine I might put a slight twist on every male pin in the ECU. Increasing effective width. I'd have to check the contact points to be sure it would work though. On to the next problem. Might as well get ready for the failing ignition module. It's a high probability.

For the record, I just read that zcar.com thread and see that I might have actually borrowed the transistor replacement idea from ZXPastor. Not sure. I got the replacement transistors at a Fry's Electronics store before they shut down. Cracked solder joints aren't uncommon on the old Datsun electricals. The headlight and running light connections, on the top of the steering column, crack and break also. You might add some relays before those fail. Full lighting circuit current runs through them. They get hot. Will be following to see how things work out. You'll have three ECUs to swap in and out for testing and comparison. Good times.

Don't overlook that when you have the connector disconnected from the board that the solder joints are probably less-stressed. I didn't see the common cracked solder joint problem mentioned in the thread. For some reason the internet is not picking up the old threads when I search. I only came across one. I've seen the others though.

It might be fun to run with the ECU cover off. When you kick the case all of the components feel it. With the cover off you can pick the one you want to test. Hit it with a hammer, wiggle it, whatever. It is odd though that two ECU's would have identical failure characteristics. Might be worth the tme to do a pin drag test on the active pins in the connector that CO shows in his diagram. Maybe you have a loose one.

What ignition system are you using? The ECU uses the coil voltage pulse to trigger injection. Maybe the problem is actually in the ignition module. The coincidence with the tapping on the ECU might be imaginary. No offense, the human brain can rationalize itself in to knots. I had thought of this earlier - if the problem is repeatable and you can make it happen while you're in gear and moving, the tachometer should still show RPM if it's the ECU crapping out. If it's spark related the tach will drop like a rock.

Ball joint failure is a real thing. It usually causes major damage and loss of control. So the calculation is about how close a person wants to get to that catastrophe. Which also endangers other people on the road. But in this case, Nissan has given an inspection procedure. If it meets spec. why replace? What's odd is that they say that the ball joint cannot be disassembled, when, obviously, it can be.

Sometimes I take a best guess, no matter what the depth of my knowledge on a subject, and just try something. Then hope my brain will take the results and come up with something better. In retrospect, I doubt that the transistor(s) was/were the cause of the problem. I imagine that almost any open circuit or short inside the ECU could cause it to malfunction. Your situation is unusual in that it seems so repeatable that it's almost controllable and is the same for two different ECU's. Maybe you're just losing a connection at one of the pins. Probably one of the multi-vibrator functions! 🥴

Looks like the NA 280ZX engine might be 79 or 80. Can't see the cylinder head temperature sensor. But that's USA only, seller might be in Canada or Europe or Australia. N42 block, N47 head, probably. They all look complete. Even the fan belts and motor mounts are still attached. Shipping could be expensive.

If I was trying to sell them I'd supply mileage when removed, how well they ran, and the price. I assume that maybe you're just looking for offers? Good luck.

Aside from replacing a part that meets Nissan specs, another factor to consider might be that used Nissan is probably better than new aftermarket.

How much? Did you see them run or are you passing on information?

Sample size cannot get any smaller. I doubt that that's why they come out since the the space between the rocker arm and the valve/pad assembly would have to open up enough to allow the lash pad to pop out. No logical reason for the divot to stop that from happening. Besides the fact that many people have had that happen when they restart old factory stock engines that have been sitting for a while. Most people think it's caused by sticking valves. Maybe your guy sets his guide clearances too tight. But, he's the builder. Good luck.

Also should note that it's called several different things around the internet. Valve guide, Guide - Rocker Valve, lash pad. Might help for searching. The part number works well though.