Zed Head

They're a little more crowded in the engine bay. The bolls are the same though.

It would help if you told what year and type of car you're working on. You can use a transmission mount bolt. The starter bolts to the transmission, so that's a decent ground path. Starter body > starter bolt > transmission case > negative cable. There's also a second mounting bolt, underneath.

Chasing your own tail is what this forum is all about. It was mentioned that one control arm "bracket" was more difficult to get installed. I'm not really sure what "bracket" means though. Not sure why you would remove a bracket either. But I do know that with the car on the ground I can loosen all of my bushings caps and the control arms won't move. Loosening the caps might show if something is under stress. The system is designed to move smoothly through its range of motion. A picture with a description of what you saw would be a big help.

The urethane bushings are't really susceptible to when you tighten the brackets since the inner sleeve rotates, unlike the rubber factory bushings which are bonded to the sleeve. Pictures of the welded area would help a lot. I might guess that the car was in an accident of some kind. Could be that the strut tube is bent and binding. The control arm (transverse link in Nissan-speak) just rotates to where the strut and spring place it. Most of the height is controlled by the vertical member. One thing that can lift a side is the anti-roll bar. Do you have one on your car? Another possibility is that somebody replaced a strut assembly with a 280Z strut. They're taller. But you would have noticed when you replaced the insert/shock/damper/strut. Could also be that they replaced the strut insulator, the big rubber piece on the top with the three studs sticking out, with a 280Z insulator. The 280Z insulator is taller also. Since you checked everything, I'm going to make that my #1. It would be easy to miss, especially if you did one side at a time when you changed struts. Apparently you bought a a car that has been sitting for 17 years? The back story is always interesting for the viewers, if you share.

Edit - I was looking at the wrong part. Here's the link. Not good that they're running out. We should all start hoarding. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4614R Edit 2 - also realized that they are charging $149.95 for a sand blast and paint on some pretty small parts. Seems excessive. Edit 3 - An AFM, with a core sent in, costs $169.95. For reference.

Use a wrench. Or a socket, Not clear what your problem is, that is one of the easiest large bolts to remove on the whole engine. Right hand accessible, big open space to work in, push down to loosen. Explain your situation.

Did the problem just appear out of nowhere, on a perfectly fine car? Or after you did some work on it? Is the problem that one side is high, or that one side is low? Did you use factory stock replacements parts or aftermarket, like urethane? Many possibilities.

My suggestions were about making an attempt before removing the manifolds. Might get lucky. For every five "took forever to get the broken stud out" stories, it seems like there is one "the stud came out with a reverse rotation drill bit without even using the EZ-out". Take a shot then remove the manifolds to get the broken EZ-out and destroyed stud stub out. Besides that, if one stud went, there are a few others close behind. Check the front one.

Forum members have worked many people down the EFI problem-solving path. Search through some threads here or post a description of what you're seeing. You can save some money. Hopefully you're using the Factory Service Manul and not one of the simpler help books, like Chilton or Haynes. The Factory book is much more detailed. There's another general EFI Guidebook also, very useful.

The first thing many people who read this will wonder is do you really need an AFM? If it's not missing entirely you may not need a new one. The AFM gets blamed for many problems. MSA sells a good product. I have one on my car. But they need a core. So if you don't have a core you'll have to find one. Core charge is $400. Notice also that what you need is more of a model number, like A31-060-001, not the Nissan part number. I have a 78 AFM in the garage but I'd have to go look to find the number. Can't remember for sure. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3040 Edit - just noticed the good advice at the bottom of the page I linked. Read everything.

Do you think the gasket is still in good shape? Did you just discover it broken after hearing a noise or did you try to tighten the nut to fix a noise? If you were fixing a noise then the gasket's already shot and a new stud won't help. Seems like drilling the stud end and trying an EZ-out is the only realistic option since you can only see the broken end of the stud. Build a fixture to keep the drill located and perpendicular and you might have a shot. ​A slim possibility - if there's enough space in the hole a stud removal tool might be able to fit. Basically a socket with internal teeth. Drive it on and hope. Overall, the odds are against you. The studs can be hard to remove even with lots of room to work.

Just disconnect the small solenoid wire at the starter and turn the key to Start. The pump should get power. It's actually the method described somewhere in one of the FSM's or the EFI Guidebook.

Adding a picture to think about. If the outlet port tube is tweaked upward, or the car is tilted, the siphon problem, and just keeping the inside hole covered, gets worse. These cars are known to suck the line dry on left hand turns when the tank gets down around 1/4.

Tried to add that damper to the basket in Rockauto and it says NLA. No luck. All of the old EFI cars used an inline damper though. VW, Toyota, BMW. 99% sure you can run without a damper while you're looking. Cabin noise and, possibly, idle fluctuation, seem to be the major reasons to have one. http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2Fs12239-012-0014-7 http://papers.sae.org/2000-01-1086/ http://papers.sae.org/971071/

It sounds like you're just losing siphon. You might add a length of hose to the outlet port with end of the hose below the fuel level inside the tank and try again. 5 gallons will spread to a low depth in the bottom of the tank. Or you could just connect the pump, put the end of the exit hose in a gas can and run the pump using the Start trick (disconnect the solenoid). Maybe you just need to suck some snot through the lines.

I read a few things. Always good to have a new reason to learn about an obscure part. It's not really clear what the damper is actually for. Some say it's actually there to damp the pump pulses from the original Bosch pump. So if you have an aftermarket pump, maybe it's not necessary. Some say that aftermarket FPR's have built-in damping ability. No proof, just statements from nowhere. Some say you'll have a poor idle if you don't have a damper. Many say that the engineers wouldn't have put it there if it wasn't needed. Seems like the best reason to damp might be to make parts last longer. The hydraulic hammering from injectors opening and closing and stiff fuel lines might make parts wear faster. Either the pump or the injectors. Maybe it's actually there to protect the Bosch pump. Just adding a few things to think about. Good luck.

That's probably as close as you'll get. It's actually a Nissan design, for the 280ZX, 810 and 200SX. Click on the FPD26 number in the description here - https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=154&partnum=FPD26&a=www.google.com%2BSearch%2Bfor%2BSTANDARD%2BMOTOR%2BPRODUCTS%2BFPD26&blanktemplate=true Cheaper too.

The newer designs attach right to the fuel rail,with an o-ring seal. But you might try something like this - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-fpd1/overview/ You need 5/16" barbs though, which is small. Check the OEM applications to see if you can find hose size. Or go to OReilly and see if they have one you can measure. You would probably be fine mounting it in the engine bay also, closer to the injectors. Here are some more options - http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/fuel-system-pulsation-dampers I know someone who actually tuned their damper using the adjustment bolt. He had someone turn the adjuster while he watched a pressure gauge. When the needle stopped bouncing he was done. But the later models probably have better damping materials or design so don't need tuning.

These two things are hard to figure, especially the first one. It implies that everything was sealed up except for the outlet port, and that you pressurized the tank and the pressure was released when you stopped. One the second - how did you blow air in to the tank? Through the return port, or the filler cap, or a vent line? Not clear. I'd try taking off the filler cap and blowing air in to the outlet port. If fuel is covering the other end you'll hear bubbles inside and air will come out of the filler hole. Don't blow too much or you'll the area with fuel fumes.

That's a nice collection. Where'd it come from? I only see Chrysler and GM as USA market, all the others are foreign. No Ford. Maybe the odd ones are installed upside down.

This thread is about maintaining fuel pressure, not fuel dampers. You've inserted yourself in to someone else's thread. And you're not even on-topic. Starting a new thread of your own might get better advice. Try Oscar. http://www.datsunstore.com/fuel-pressure-dampener-7583-p-95.html Any damper from an older fuel-injected car would probably work. Browse the local wrecking yards.

115 mm = 4 1/2 inches. Not very big. Most of the estimates you'll find are based on what people have seen break a few diffs, or what they've seen them handle without breaking. I doubt that anyone here has run a 115 mm diff.

Why?

That's what I thought you were thinking of. I have a set of 2+2 280Zx CV's in the garage and the companion flanges, from a diff I bought as a spare. But I have a 280Z so they're not much use to me. The 300ZX Trubo shafts are longer than the 280ZX turbo shafts, I believe. I don't think the 280ZX shafts have the length problem. Guess you'll find out.

Cold operation is a transient phase, a region to get through as quickly as possible. That's why the thermostat stays closed and there are temperature operated choke flappers, fast idle mechanisms, AAR's, and timing advance schemes on carb'ed and EFI systems keep the engine running while it's cold. I wouldn't do any "tuning" to change a cold engine observation. Just me. You'd probably change the hot end by working on the cold end.