Zed Head

You should sic him on the guy with the yellow shed car. Offer him cash and a lead on another car. Maybe he can work his verbal magic and break it free.

If you don't block the PCV under the intake manifold you'll have suction through the catch can back to the intake manifold, a vacuum leak. If you seal the catch can, it will be a dead zone with no real function. Not picking, just exercising my technical brain. The Emissions chapter shows the various flow paths from the crankcase of the PCV system. Actually fun to study. You could just bend a hose along the edge of the intake manifold and retain the factory functions, but with a cleaner look. Most people use catch-cans on race engines that produce lots of crankcase pressure, to catch oil mist before venting.

Do you have urethane front and back or the mixed rubber and urethane? Mine would loosen when I had full urethane, until the end broke off of one of the rods. Now I have rubber in the back, urethane in the front, double nuts, with the back nut a lock nut, and thread locker.

Looks like fun. FYI, the Fairlady moniker is typically reserved for the left-hand drive cars from Japan, I believe. Yours is just a 280Z. Not a big deal but this is the site for the purists, along with the rest of us. Classic. Buy some contact cleaner, like DeOxit, and some nut-buster like PB Blaster, and start spraying so it can start working.

Genius, Nobel prize level thinking. I wonder if the insurance rates are lower because of that. Although, I can eat a donut and shift at the same time. I'm sure some kids have worked out a way to text.

Smooth and sleek. You could probably fill any divots with solder (lead) if you're planning to coat it. More durable than body filler, I'd guess. It may be in the 26 pages somewhere, but are you planning for carbs or just disabling the PCV system? Just curious about why you want a catch-can instead.

What are the upgrades?

"I hearing"? So you're having an auction, with the starting bid at $13,500. Good luck.

Loosen the cap while it's sitting and see if pressure buildup is part of the problem. There have been discussions about the tank holding pressure before. Somewhat inconclusive. My 76 has zero pressure buildup. When I remove the cap, nothing happens. Could be that my check valve is toast, or they changed the valve in later years. The diagrams show a spring-actuated check valve, but there's no information about the pressure it's designed to release. It's between the vent tank and the charcoal can. Since you have a decent view of the leak area you might also jack up the passenger side of the car, creating a new low spot. If the leak is in the hose, you'll see a trail down the hose from the hole. If it's at the metal-hose interface you'll only see fuel at the seam. Use a mirror to get a better view. That's a lot of gas.

How much?

Drove by the other day and it's still there. Buried under old shed wood. There were a bunch of vehicles n the drive, a white van and many 5 gallon paint cans. Looks like a working guy who sees his dream sitting there every day when he gets home. Can't blame him if he doesn't sell. If he had a garage and some internet access he'd probably be here. Maybe we should leave him a note with "classiczcars.com" on it.

One thing to be careful of - you could decide to get new parts and "upgrade" and find that you need an adjustable FPR , and end up right back in the same spot with an FPR that doesn't hold pressure. Many of the shiny aftermarket FPR's don't hold pressure. Also, on testing injector flow, I had unbalanced injectors for a while and I'm pretty sure it contributed to a buzzy, rough running feel at high RPM. Made me decide to swap a 5 speed for my 4 speed. But now, with good injectors and a good tuneup, I often find myself in 4th gear on the freeway when I should be in 5th. Stuff to think about.

I knew that we'd end up in the same time frame. I even waited. Chas showed also his method for testing injector flow, but didn't detail it. You can short the injector circuits at the ECU connector to get full flow for a short period of time. You can see in his picture that his were unbalanced. You might try that before anything. You'll probably end up replacing all of your injectors. That's how things usually go. There's a procedure in the Engine Fuel chapter for replacing injector hose. IT's just pressed over a barb, no hose clamp. If you find that your injectors are fine, you'll probably find that the hose isn't . It will be cracked if you look at the internal portion, end-on. Little streamers of gas come out eventually.

Sounds like 2 wires aren't connected. The one from B to the battery positive terminal, and the S wire at the alternator. But they might both run through the same fusible link. Find the fusible link that's in the wire from the B terminal to the battery post. Actually it would be the white wire that connects to the starter lug, that's show Nissan got it there. If you accidentally touched the end of the white wire at the alternator to ground with the battery connected you'd blow that link. The short diagnostic method would be to measure resistance from the battery + post to the alternator B terminal. You'll probably find it's open circuit, then go from there.

Here's a link to what the injector clips look like. You can see it in your picture. They used a different style for some reason, even more difficult to remove, in the hardest spot to get to. Your right angle pick will work, or a small screwdriver. Pry the tip out, lift one side to keep it there, then pry the other side out and remove the connector. Or you can pry it out then stick a striaght pick underneath to hold it. Or get mad and just tear it off, the old plastic will shatter like glass. Replace with GM, Audi, BMW or Volvo spring-clip EV1 connectors. Mid-90's era cars used them, some still do. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3410 Here's a bulky style. The GM and BMW models are very streamlined. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/11-3059

Is it still overheating?

Report the new pump and the 5.5 psi measurement here.

Is it still backfiring?

jalexquijano's 240Z problems 1. Engine shakes during acceleration at low RPM. Clutch is engaged, so it's not a clutch engagement problem. New differential mount had no affect. 2. Plugs foul. Smell of excess gas. Fuel pressure measured at rear carb was ~5.5 psi. (before rear carb or after rear carb? Deadheaded?). 3. Engine backfires - 4. Engine overheats - I would keep a running list of these things and post them in all of your threads. On your current request for a pressure regulator - you didn't say that you have a regulator now. If you don't have a regulator and you're seeing 5.5 psi after the carbs, then you'll need to do some plumbing work also to bypass the excess pressure as Stanley suggested. And, you didn't respond to his suggestion of an Aeromotive regulator, or a Mallory 4070LP The Mallory is set to 3-4 psi and can be adjusted over a narrow range. He made a suggestion and you just ignored it. That's why people aren't responding any more to your questions. If someone suggests something you have to at least acknowledge that you saw it. Otherwise, what's the point of responding to jalexquijano's questions. He'll just ignore the response. Good luck. http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/600/650/650-4070LP.pdf

" cylinder pressure readings, cam timing pictures, pictures of the cam lobes, all of that, " Everything that you know. The back and forth shaking could be the way the engine runs, or it could be from engaging the clutch. Which is it? I know you've been over all of this before, but it's your car so you need to keep the facts organized. You should be able to summarize all of the problems that you've had, and the suggestions that people have made.

You said "rubber" three times. Replacing old rubber with new rubber? You definitely don't want to grease the rubber bushings, the rubber will soak it up and might weaken. Might be what happened to the anti-seize. A little probably won't hurt them, it will leach back out as they go through some weathering.

You need to drive up to Texas and have a good mechanic really check your engine out. Even with a fairly poor carb tune, you shouldn't have all of these issues. Especially the back and forth shaking. Sounds like you have a dead cylinder. If you could collect and post all of the information about your engine, including the cylinder pressure readings, cam timing pictures, pictures of the cam lobes, all of that, you might get some good advice. I wouldn't be surprised if you had a flat cam lobe, since you just installed a new cam. They usually go bad soon after installation, if they're going to go bad. Get everything you know about the engine and cam that's in the car now, and take two pictures of the cam shaft, 180 degrees apart. Start a new thread.

Sounds like you're talking about aftermarket polyurethane, not factory rubber. I don't think that the urethane bushings will "lock down", they're round and inherently slippery, unlike the factory rubber bushings. Some people actually drill the bushing clamps and install Zerk fittings so that they can grease the bushings.

I would do Euro's test first to be sure, but if you need to replace it don't try to save the hose. Just cut the hose, remove the FPR, then cut the remaining pieces of hose lengthwise to remove them from the rail. Many small cuts, deeper and deeper until it breaks free is the way. Don't gouge the metal. Then when you reinstall, slide the hose on first (hose cut to proper length) and well down the rail. Insert the FPR then slide the hose back over to the FPR. Don't even fiddle with bending hose or fuel rail or trying to pry or squeeze anything in to a tight spot. Use WD-40 or your favorite spray lube. I farted around with trying to save the hose when removing filters and fuel rails and FPR's but the cost/benefit ratio is way shifted toward just cut it and put on new hose.

You can see in the FSM that the brown link should be of lower capacity than the green. How it got to 50 amps and red is still somewhat of a mystery. I think that someone took a guess may years ago and it has lasted.