Zed Head

I've attached my hood to the rafters of my garage before unbolting it. An option. You do need room to roll the car out from under though. Plan ahead.

It's a combination of a weak motor and low voltage at idle RPM, usually. Try an experiment - turn up your idle speed, or use your foot on the throttle, until the voltmeter shows that the alternator is putting out more than battery voltage. See if the wiper speed is still slow. When I had a weak battery and low idle speed, mu wipers would often stop completely at a stop light. A fully charged battery, better alternator, and 100 extra idle RPM solved the problem.

Seems like a new hole could be drilled without flipping the mount. Another, somewhat convoluted option might be to fasten the snubber to a plate via a threaded hole in the plate, then use the two outside holes to fasten the plate to the TV mount. Clears up the center top of the TV mount. Just realized that TV didn't supply the outer holes for the GM mount. I'd prefer two bolts if using the hanging GM mount. Anyway, lots of drilling, cutting, trimming options.

Diseazd, I think that you must have drilled a new hole. That's why the stop hangs off the edge of the mount. Since it's a snubber, it doesn't matter much where it hits the diff. Easy good idea.

That picture shows the GM transmission mount, not a snubber. The GM mount actually has three holes, you can use the two outer ones instead of the center. If you are using a snubber though, you might have to trim the stud down with a hack saw. Maximum effect would be to trim the stud down, and use a thin washer, maybe a thin nut also, and some thread locker. I used a snubber for a short while and pretty sure I trimmed the stud. Not because it was a problem, it just bugged me.

Did you get an older model or are you assuming that it needs a low energy coil? I'm not sure which thread it was discussed in, maybe this one, but the latest versions allow high energy coils. Not less than 1 ohm, but that's what the 78 and later Z's and ZX's use, about 1 ohm. In the higher energy range, certainly more than the old 240Z systems. With dwell control, which is the key to the modern systems. http://www.123ignition.nl/downloads/manuals/123SWITCH6.pdf

Pellets will give the hawks lead poisoning. They'll die. You should use BB's.

Me individually, or the topic? Or your car? I can stop. We're all just out here watching what's going on with other people's projects. Red Bird is winning awards and it's a low-budget, survivor 280Z. People spend tons on restorations or on race cars, I'm just wondering...

Actually the skin might be a two component urethane also. So it might not melt or dissolve but it can still absorb solvent and swell, and crack. The key here though is that the paint may not dissolve anyway if it's a two-component paint, so a solvent might be pointless. Bu the shop should know all about the type of paint and how to remove it. Or if it is removable at all.

Just wondering what it will be when it's done. It's purpose. Maybe the stroker engine does belong in there. I tend to look at things and think "that was money/effort well-spent" or the opposite. Just seems like a lot of money to get back to a basic 1973 240Z. Don't mean to be a buzz-kill, just trying to comprehend. You did offer up a variety of scenarios for review, but they all seemed costly to me. And for $1000 shipping fee, you could save $9000. That's a Rebello engine.

Are those the only two pictures you have? A side shot and an engine bay shot aren't much. Can't even tell interior color with the tinted windows. How many miles on the engine? The car? Is the engine original, stock, and never rebuilt? Interesting, but mysterious.

No offense, but couldn't you buy two cars that are already done for $28,000? Just curious about what the final product is meant to be. Is it just a nice driver, a show car, a track car? The way this reads, you get a painted empty body delivered back to you. Is that right? Just wondering, why? Your money of course, really just trying to absorb what the project is about.

Today's urethane paints are usually two component which means that they won't dissolve after they cure. Acetone, MEK, or other strong solvents might do more damage than good and they probably won't dissolve the overspray. I wouldn't use any solvents at all, that old dash will absorb solvent, swell, and crumble. Could be a disaster. If the dash has had Armor All or similar vinyl care products used on it, the overspray won't adhere well. A light scrubbing with more Armor All might remove it. If you decide to try a solvent, test it out on a hidden corner first.

If you post real quick before the dropdown box fills in, you can lock up the box. Computer fun.

@EuroDat Where's he @?

I think the biggest problem is the bolt pattern. zcardepot seems to have one that will work. The difference in effort between small and big is probably barely noticeable.

...make some stir-fry.

This is actually an opportunity to improve what you have. Or you can just try to get it back to what it was before it started chattering. But there are definitely ways to make things worse even with new parts. Pedal force required can increase with a low-tolerance low cost pressure plate, for example. Those cheap eBay parts are just people with offshore manufacturing connections, bringing parts over, and/or distributors for all of the other brands. Typically they just reverse engineer what's out there, have it made overseas, and give it a their name. They're just a distributor; databases, computers, and shipping is what they do. Better to get an established brand, I think. Some of these are old but one is from 2012, and the yelps are very recent. http://gripforce.com/ http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/aftermarket-vendor-review/647885-gripforce-f1-racing-clutches.html http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1106051 http://www.yelp.com/biz/gripforce-brea

Many parts stores will gladly bring in extra parts to have on hand if they might make a sale. Does't really hurt them, their warehouse trucks won't notice a few extra pounds. Doesn't hurt to ask. They'd probably let you buy both and return the one you don't use. OR, your mechanic might be able to get them both on hand. Mechanics have connections. Don't assume that you need the internet. Seriously, if your mechanic has been in business for a while, he should have the answers to all of your questions, including the resurfacing. He may not want to do the running around but he should know. Have you asked? Aside from that, it would be a sad comment on the state of industry in America if a guy in MICHIGAN, the former heartland of the automotive world, can't get a flywheel resurfaced. The crankshaft seal is one piece, press-fit.

You'd have to assume that the PO kept the original 2+2 flywheel. Odds are good that it's still the bigger 240mm 2+2 clutch. But, chatter is often a sign that the flywheel friction surface is uneven. So, you might need a flywheel resurface. These days, a resurface might cost more than a replacement flywheel. Strange but true, depending on your location, labor costs can be high. You could call around about the cost of resurfacing then decide whether to get a replacement flywheel. If you end up getting a replacement then you have more options. Although the factory parts are of high quality. Can't you find decent parts in the neighborhood? Why go to eBay if you don't have to? Then you can swap easily them if they're not right. The 240mm flywheels and clutch kits are still fairly common. The 225mm flywheels are hard to find.

There is one small piece that can be replaced in there that will add some compliance. Called a spacer, it sits between the spring seat and the insulator. Still available I think, I bought some a couple of years ago. They compress and look like one piece but they can be pried out. It's just a rubber donut. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/axle/rear-suspension/13

I was just showing a possibility. eBay is another. He has a part number now, hit the Google..

Kind of odd that the buyback price was so high. Seems like they might be trying to play the emotional angle and trying to squeeze a few dollars out of the deal. It will probably go to a wrecking yard for $300, which is how I thought they set their buyback prices. Or is there a company out there that buys wrecked classics and parts them out or rebuilds them? There's $4500 worth of part-out there?

Old factory stock. http://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-coupling-steer~48073-78500.html http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/steering/steering-column/28

There is at least one, maybe two, labels on the car that many smog testers use. The one on my door jamb says "No Catalyst" in big bold letters. If it says "Catalyst" then he'll look for a converter. I had to point out once that there was a "No" in front of Catalyst after the guy looked at it then stuck his mirror under the car. I don't know what the labels say about EGR, my car doesn't have it.