Zed Head

The sloping design might be to drive the tail of the transmission downward under braking or impact. Maybe. Hate to be my usual contrary self but I think the second picture might be the way. If I read the illustration correctly.

Thanks. I've wondered where those shaved heads end up. That's a hair under an N42 or N47. 44.6. But with the heart shaped combustion chamber, instead of round.

Clean, clean, clean. Use contact cleaner or CAIG Deoxit. The wires tend to be okay but the connections get corroded. There are replacements for the things like the injector connectors. The connections under the seat are probably the brake warning lamp check relay. At least one is. BE-36 and -43 in the factory manual.

Welcome. Doesn't look too bad. You're in the "Help Me!!" forum but didn't really ask for any, or specify a problem. Bring 'em on...

What numbers did he get on the CC'ing? Curious.

I mean well. Frankly, it still seems like you're missing some things. If you have an R200 flange just use thr procedure in the 240Z FSM. Sorry.

I'll stop. U-joints are easy, I assumed if you didn't know how to do a u-joint you might not know about the pattern. Good luck.

R180 and R200 have the same bolt pattern except 1975 and 300ZX.

Definitely looks smaller than my L28 plug, in the same position, so the head elbow's not going to fit. I just went out and looked at mine and it takes up much more of the boss than yours. Interesting. I'd bet good money that it's the same size as one of the coolant passage fittings in the thermostat housing. Or maybe a carburetor/manifold fitting. Were it mine, I'd remove a few coolant fittings and/or senders or sensors, and try them.

Fusible links are like "slow blow" fuses. Fuses are specified mainly to the gauge of the wire that they're protecting. In the development world there's probably lots of testing to failure before the final specification. It's an interesting topic. You can go with a lower fuse rating if you add heat removal. It's really all about the heat. I've solved fuse blowing problems in the old house I live in by opening the fuse panel door in the summertime. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/wire-gauges-d_419.html http://aemcomponents.com/applications/faq/

I meant the direction the blades spin didn't matter as long as the air was moving in the correct direction. That's why you reverse the power and ground wires, to reverse the rotation direction of the fan. Making it spin the right direction instead of wrong. Man, this site is slow....

You can isolate corners by sticking a piece of rubber under the fitting at the end of a line, as a plug. Something like a BB might work also. You can also isolate at the MC to see if the problem is in the front or back. The material inside the lines might not be as flexible as the exterior. Clamping the lines will damage a thermoplastic, like Teflon. You definitely don't want to clamp a stainless steel line.

I've had a few Yuenglings n Pottstown. The fish in the river are these weird orange and gray hybrid Koi-Carp. My Irish buddy though they were fantastic trophy sport fish.

Any "old engine" shop that saw those numbers would think bent or stuck valve first. Not engine rebuild. The shop didn't try to sell him anything though. They didn't want to work on it. Overall, you have to wonder if they really put much effort in to the pressure checks. A simple inspection, and a couple of measurements of your own and you'll be way better off, knowledge-wise, than you are now. You might be able to borrow a pressure tester at a parts store. Get the screw-in type.

Who measured the cylinder pressures that you referred to in Post #1?

So you're saying that somebody had the L and the S wires crossed? You didn't really ask a question at the end. The Charge and Brake dash lights should both be on when the key is at Run, but not Acc. Then go off when the engine starts,

You could reverse the power and ground wires. It's a DC motor and will run fine backward, I'd assume (might even get more life from the brushes). The blades are designed to create a pressure differential from the inside to the outside, I don't think direction matters as to how it happens..

On my L28 that hole is the same size as the one that supplies the heater core, in the back, passenger-side, of the head. They can be swapped. Might help if somebody has a measurement for that part, the elbow. It looks smaller on your L24 though, but if you have the time you could remove the elbow and try it in the hole. Then you'd have a male part that you could more easily measure. I have an L28 plug that I could remove but I don't have a thread gauge so would have to guesstimate.

The bottom ends on these cars are super durable. Worst case, it might need to have the head worked on, which can be done with the engine in the car. Moisture from the exhaust is normal. It's a byproduct of combustion. You'll need a Philips head screwdriver for the hose clamps, and a 10mm socket with an extension for the valve cover bolts. If you've rebuilt a mower engine, you can easily get the cover off and determine the source of the problem. Remove the hose, loosen the screws (leave them in the holes), and lift the cover straight up. It's designed for easy, often, removal. The gasket will probably tear when you remove the cover, so try to find a new one before you start.

Start the engine using starting fluid when the pump is connected to 12 volts. See if it keeps running. The pump only has power when the key is Start or the engine is running. So, unless you have excellent hearing, you don't know that the pump was running when you tried to start it. Some 280ZX's have a 5 second prime when the key is turned On, but it often doesn't work.

Your first post is out there. Probably didn't get a response because you're already in the right place - the manual. The wring diagram shows the circuit, with any fusible links or fuses, and the EFEC chapter shows a test procedure. Plus you had the pump connected to power and running. Did the engine start correctly and stay running then? If it didn't then the problem might not be the fuel pump power. How far do you drive it every 3-4 months and how long have you been doing that? Enough to refill the fuel tank within a year? Maybe the fuel has just gone bad or collected condensation in the tank.

Other areas where you can get play are the shims behind the pads. If they're bent they'll need to be compressed before you get solid braking action. The bends will push the pistons back in to the calipers when pressure's off the problem won't fix itself. If you get new shoes beware that some shoes seem to be designed for oversize drums. Mine only contacted on the edges until they wore in because the diameter was too large for the drums. Have fun, good luck.

Mark's suggestion of using vise-grips to clamp the flange was a good one. Just for a short test. See if the popping goes away.

How about the reaction disc? It's purpose is to allow a gradual application of force. Maybe the sharp contrast is what really bothers you, not the one inch. You could go to the other end of the adjustment problem and run the booster rod out so far that the brakes build pressure from heat and fluid expansion and lock up because the return hole is closed. Then back it off from that point.

You need to tell us where you're located.