Zed Head

This is for sale though. Not sure exactly what it is. It's used. http://www.duncanimports.com/used/Datsun/1971-Datsun-510-28e4c14b0a0e08be4378de2bddee7083.htm

At least something good came out of that other thread. If anybody has OCD it's the guy with the giant car collection. Funny though, he has no 240Z's. But he does have some 280Z's. Apparently not for sale though. Probably waiting for them to increase in value. http://www.duncanimports.com/all-inventory/index.htm?search=280Z&dl.custom.form.id=&dl.element=BUTTON+Search&dl.formElapsedTime=5244&dl.formTrackingId=INVENTORY_SEARCH&dl.isModal=&dl.params=&dl.widgetName=Try+another+search

Did anybody save the link to that huge collection of cars? Pazt has deleted all of the links and pictures. Can't blame him. Wouldn't want to inflict this on my friends. There were four pretty nice 280Z's in the collection. But no 240Z's. Edit - found it - http://www.duncanimports.com/ Don't worry Pazt, the 280Z crowd is pretty mellow...

That was an excellent game. Thought there would be a few more words about it. Good to see the good guys win.

Stick a long screwdriver or metal shaft through the other side of the u-joint. The other yoke. The u-joints and yokes are very strong. While you're breaking the bolt free you can watch the individual bearing caps for play to see if the joints are worn.

The antipathy was to people who nitpick. Not the forum itself. Edit - and if that's not a biased "precis" I don't know what biased means. Edit 2 - I did have to look up precis though...

He was planning to come back, and share.

I don't see anything about "above" in his first reply. Just a clarification. Removing some bias.

This is some weird psychology going on here, isn't there? I see a ton of cognitive bias. Believing what you hope to be true, instead of seeing what is. Or maybe it's just plain old confusion. Throwing insults when you're confused is pretty common. Thanks for the "compliment" Diseazd. Also, don't really know what to think about somebody who lets a single person drive them away (note - I'm not the one). Seems like pazt is letting HS30 push him out. Which might be what HS30 wanted. The pond is too small. Alrighty then. This thread is about dead. Let some days go by...

Never mind. And you may find yourself in a beautiful house...

Actually, I was serious. There should be a separation between the hobbyists and modifiers like us, and the collectors, who appreciate the originality and provenance of the "marque". Those who want to enjoy a mellow conversation can do that, and those who want to do battle with words can do their thing. Each to his own.

I haven't had any of the R180's in front of me but I have noticed there appear to be two different kinds of half-shaft that they used with them. The typical flanged halfshaft and a half-shaft with u-joint yoke attached. It's odd but your later R180 has what I thought was the early style, and woodworker B's early 240Z has what I thought was the later style. But, it's clear from the FSM Rear Axle chapter that what you have is correct for your car. Here's a picture. Combine it in your head with one of the the Woodworker B pictures and you should figure out where the bolt head is.

I posted a clip from Mike's welcome in #36. I'm trying to follow Mike's guide. I do like the way the site is intended to be, so by definition trying to control it to Mike's liking is the same as controlling it to my liking. You're trying to hold everyone to the purists' values. You would be much freeer in the new sub-forum. You're welcome.

I've had a thought, which I think is reasonable. Mike could create a new sub-forum, maybe call it The Purist Zone, where the purists can have their discussions and share their knowledge. Then, instead of interjecting when somebody says something impure, the purist can simply provide a link to the new sub-forum. "We've clarified that situation here - link" or something similar. The sub-forum could even be "no holds (words) barred" for the members that really want to make their point, or just simply do word battles. @Mike Mike-san, what do you think? It would contain much of the vitriol and people could enter at their own risk. You might have to disable the feature that shows the first few lines of the posts though, just to keep it off of the front page. Most of these big arguments come from members trying to control the site to their liking. Maybe we just need more choices. Edit - forgot to say that I do enjoy learning about the histories of the cars and their features but just don't like to read all of the extra stuff that often goes along with it. Let's give it a special place.

And if you just must remove it, Nissan says you need a puller. They supplied a drawing in the PD chapter too, showing it in use.

Back on topic - Hagerty uses 1,2,3,4 with #1 being the best. What would a grade 4 or 5 be? https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1971-datsun-240z

It's Mike's site and he said "Datsun/Nissan" Z car. That takes the category all the way to 1978.

Pretty sure that you don't need to remove that. Might cause more problems than necessary, it's a shimmed, precision piece. I would stop, put the bolts back in, and follow the procedure in the PD chapter.

You might pick a single thing and make sure it's right. Lot's of jumping around without actually fixing anything. Fuel pressure that's too high, Don't know if the ECU is opening the injectors (or if it's even connected to the coil's negative terminal), Don't know if the injectors have power (apparently, since you're planning to replace the connectors), Don't know if valve timing is correct, (popping back through the intake is a sign), Don't know if spark timing is correct. Each one of these can be confirmed or fixed, independently of the others. We suggested running your return line in to a can so that you'd know if the rail or return line was plugged and your next few posts are about buying new electrical connectors. I've spent several minutes squirting blasts of starting fluid in to a wood chipper engine, keeping it running while I waited for good fuel to get pulled up to the carb from the cruddy tank. It didn't work but when I was done I knew the engine was fine and I had a dirty fuel tank. Focus!

Could be that the axle and/or bearing removal procedure caused a problem. Bent something maybe. Did you use a slide hammer or a lever it out with a pry bar.? Maybe everything is right but you just have a small bent area. A ding. When looking at Blue's pictures study the blue part and the black "distance" piece. The purpose of the distance piece is to hold the inner race at about the same distance as the outer race. The chart in the FSM shows that they calculated a 0.001 to 0.002" preload offset. That's small. But there's a "huge" overlap of tolerances, so it almost doesn't matter. It's weird, not even attributable to translation error, that the numbers don't just match, or they just say that one can't be more than xxx thousandths bigger/smaller than the other. Basically they just want the inner race and the outer race to be on the same plane, within a few thousandths. I also just noticed that they typo'ed a 6 for a 5.

Did you strip the heads or they just don't move? Is it one of the ZX starters? They have a whole maintenance thing in the Electrical chapter.

Forgot to say, this is some good new information. At least I've never heard it before. The Kenmeri story especially. Kenmeri sounds so exotic and racy, but it's just Ken and Mary. Funny.

I was thinking about the "wallowing out" issue when I just jumped on here and there it is. Pretty sure that John Coffey has described it and maybe J Mortensen. It's a race car problem. But, that dimension is in the FSM also. Hate to repeat it, but the early FSM's are excellent maintenance manuals. Much better than the later years.

Actually, you don't "have to". That seems to be where most of your problems start on this forum. Your definition of "right" is not quite right.

Might have mentioned this before too, but if you get some starting fluid, for a few dollars, and start the engine with the fuel pump off (to be sure you're not flooding it with the high pressure), then you'll at least know that you have spark and timing is close. Pull a plug, make sure they're not wet, leave the fuel pump unpowered, squirt some fluid in to the intake manifold, start it. If you want to enjoy it for a few more seconds just squirt more before the engine dies. You're starting to look at changing distributors but haven't confirmed that the one you have is bad.