Zed Head

I might be wrong about his problem though. In that picture I expected to see the locking screw. Maybe the 240's have it on the other side, and adjustment marks on the side I see. Should be where the red arrow points.

However you look at it, he does have a new different problem that he should fix. If his distributor is not locked own, his timing is going to walk eventually. Beside that, this a proper, separate, thread. Nobody has to get involved if they don't want to. Just saying, it's his own hole, let him dig.

I'm not a carb guy and I think that somebody has already addressed it via the PCV valve comment, but there might be various openings in to that vacuum tube that allow air in after the carbs. Like EFI, you want all air that enters the intake manifolds/cylinder head during normal driving to pass through the carburetors, otherwise non-enriched air will make things lean. One way to look at things that allows you to see potential problems without knowing exactly where all the hoses go. If you can't get all of the hoses reconnected correctly, it might be worthwhile to block the PCV system off, and just run a vent on the valve cover. Until you get the right parts, like the air filter housing. Another thing to think about is that the carbs aren't designed to take the weight of that kludged together CAI system. If it's not hanging unsupported it might be attached to the body. When the engine moves it will be torqued. Could be creating vacuum leaks. Things would probably be a lot simpler if you got rid of it.

I have some fun for us all though. I'm not positive but I think that somebody has installed the plate on the bottom of the distributor backwards or sideways. Not even sure how the distributor is clamped down to avoid rotation when the engine is running. Might explain many past problems. Where is the screw?

He wants to replace the o-ring, which requires removing the adjustment screw. If people weren't working on their cars the site would probably die.

What are you hoping to do with this car? There's not going to be one or two simple things to do to get it running like a top. People can piece-meal you closer but a hose here, some carb oil there, is going to take you a long time. Are you going to keep the funky CAI and exhaust tube intake system or go back to the stock air filter? Just asking. It's good entertainment to do one small fix at a time, either way.

Probably a leaf blower at the ends of the intake tubes...

Is this thing some sort of balance tube? Show us where the air comes in.

I misread your first post. I thought you were replacing your electronic distributor with an old points distributor. Now I see that you're just removing the distributor, cleaning it, and putting it right back in. The same distributor. It should be very simple as long as you mark the adjustment setting before you remove it, so that you can set it to the same timing. Mark the mount and the distributor and match them up on reinstall. And yes, they do only install one way.

Download the FSM and you'll find pictures like this one.

I was being ironic. Looks like somebody hacked some stuff together, for some reason. Your valve cover hose would normally run to the air filter box, which is missing. Did they put some sort of "cold air intake" at the end of the intake tubes? Take more broad view pictures. We'll zoom in.

Does it run?

Too much information! Try to boil it down even more.

Woops, didn't read all of the posts. Might as well break it more though if it's already broke.

Rebuild the one you have. Fastwoman wrote up what she did with hers. They're pretty simple devices, parts-wise.

Not sure but it looks like it might have one of those "crap my wheel just fell off" rolled up rear quarters. Something seems to be missing. Maybe hiding it with the motorcycle handle bar.

Interesting posts on Hybridz.org regarding fusible links (that's me in my other pen name). dmorales used to post over here I think. Edit - actually he still does, just on different topics. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123252-280z-restomod-progress/?page=7&tab=comments#comment-1207295

Might be because the weather is cooling around here but all of a sudden there's a bunch of cars for sale. https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/d/81-datsun-280zx/6696448147.html https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/d/83-datsun-280zx/6695126826.html https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/d/1980-datsun-280zx-coupe-top/6694385453.html https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/d/1979-datsun-280zx/6683655333.html https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/1977-datsun-280z/6681195403.html https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/d/1982-datsun-280zxt/6672645630.html

I'm pretty sure the switch assembly is two parts, with one part being a clamping mechanism. Two screws hold it together. I have a spare in the garage, from a 78. I think that you could unplug the switch and ground the head lamp wires directly, to see if they get brighter. If they don't get brighter then cleaning the switch won't help. Found this picture on eBay. I'm rich!

Wow, injector prices have really gone up. BWD even changed the color of theirs, they're not green anymore. Give me time to ponder. I wonder if you shouldn't get back to Fuel Injection Services in the meantime. Your test shows the reconditioning was not effective, they are unbalanced. They didn't replace the nozzle, that part is called the pintle cap. It doesn't affect the spray pattern unless it's the wrong one. The only replaceable parts on these fuel injectors are the filter screen in the inlet and the plastic pintle cap. They are permanently swaged together during assembly. Can't be disassembled. Reconditioning really just means cleaning. They should have checked the flow balance on their own equipment. Usually those places give some documentation showing what they got.

Great info either way. Thanks for posting. If I recall right the brake lines have the same problem, I seem to remember having to use a wrench when I swapped calipers because the nut was too small on my Earl's brake lines. Weird that Earl's can't do metric or just decided that theirs were "close enough". http://www.technafitstore.com/Brake-Line-Kits-s/1825.htm

I got an error message. https://www.technafitstore.com/searchresults.asp?Submit=Go&Search=ncl-110 I found this one though. http://www.technafitstore.com/NISSAN-Clutch-Line-Kit-p/nc-100.htm

I saw your PM. Let me go take a look at what I have. The 78 injectors are still on a rail, sealed, so might still have some wet fuel inside. I'm sure I could fit them in a flat rate USPS envelope.

Sounds like you haven't even got it started yet. You might try wrapping the neck of the tank with something like Mylar sheet in a cone shape, or stick a bunch of zip ties up the rubber tube as you try to get it started on the metal tube from the tank. Make a ramp of sorts for the rubber, along with some type of lubricant. Once the edges of the rubber are are over the edge of the metal pull the Mylar or the zip ties out then see what happens. I'll bet some long zip ties would help you get it started and would pull out easily. You might also be able to temporarily stretch the mouth of the rubber tube using some kind of cone shape jammed in it for a while.