Zed Head

They don't show any in the Body chapter dimensions, see below. If caster is the same then it would have to show in the top strut mount area. Those TC rod bushings are pretty squishy and tend to degrade over time. 1/4" one way on one side and 1/4" the other on the other side and you get 1/2". I think that when you drive the car setback and caster move all over the place. The rear end is suspended in rubber also.

I sent the guy a message on eBay and he sent back a picture of the VIN from the firewall. Says that he thinks something rubbed on the ID plate and wore the paint away. He doesn't know what happened with the door. I suggested that he join CZCC and discuss but I think he's just a guy who came across a Z and is flipping it. You can kind of hear it in his video. Anyway, it looks legit, I think. The interior looks in great shape for a sun baked part of the country.

Sounds cammy. The guy rolled the camera right over the 260Z but didn't say anything. Maybe it's a stroked L24. https://secureir.ebaystatic.com/cr/v/c1/usvvp-20191119/index.html?video=https%3A%2F%2Fvideo.ebaycdn.net%2Fvideos%2Fv1%2F2d35f92d17b0a4d48d412bb1ffffea3c&thumbnail=https%3A%2F%2Fi.ebayimg.com%2F00%2Fs%2FMTIwMFg2NzU%3D%2Fz%2FUAAAAOSwzHZhEbfM%2F%24_1.JPG%3Fset_id%3D8800005007&title=1971 Datsun 240Z Coupe Orange RWD Manual series 1

I missed that. I can't tell if it's scammy or not. Might just be an old beat up 240Z. No obvious signs of fraud. Looks like somebody screwed up and used a powerful solvent on the ID plate though.

The zcarsource description is wrong on the clutch kit, turbo and 2+2 are the same parts. Can't exclude one and include the other. Edit - actually I see that what they did is to just add irrelevant information and leave out other relevant info. It could be turbo, 2+2, or turbo 2+2. All 240mm. But you might have the right parts. The pictures match. Looks like the 240mm clutch setup. The parts that you said are on the car look like 240mm also. So, odds are you'll be fine. 92mm is the critical measurement. https://zcarsource.com/transmission-service-kit-240z-260z-280z-72-78-new/ https://zcarsource.com/clutch-kit-260z-280z-280zx-300zx-74-83-non-turbo-2-2-81-86-turbo-new/ https://zcarsource.com/flywheel-manual-transmission-260z-280z-280zx-74-83-2-2-and-turbo-new/

That is normal. Nissan calls the transmission mount the rear engine mount. The engine weight is not centered over the two front mounts. Holding up the back of the engine is one of the more difficult things to do when removing the transmission. People use a cable on the hood latch (bad idea) or a block of wood between the valve cover and the firewall (still bad), but a jack under a block of wood on the back of the oil pan is probably best. Use the car's scissor jack and you'll be able to adjust the angle when you install the transmission. Probably why most people install the engine and transmission as an assembly, but forgot to mention that. And, even worse, if you didn't slide the transmission under the car before you installed the engine, you'll have a hard time lifting the car up with the engine in, balanced on a scissor jack. There are other work-arounds but the tilting unbalanced engine is normal.

How can you tell? Actually looks like a pretty nice rust-free car. Utah.

There are some pretty deep conversations about hub caps on the forum pages. 240260280 has done quite a bit of research on them, you might search his name. There are reproductions out there. You can find them on eBay but sometimes they're passed off as original. Scammers.

https://www.classiczcars.com/search/?q=harmony01&quick=1

There's a drawing in the FSM. It's in the Body Electrical chapter.

Was not logged in this morning and when I got on the CZCC page awful music started playing. It wasn't obvious that it was CZCC, there was no ad that looked it would be playing music, although there was an ad across the bottom of the page. And it took a short while before the music started. The music stopped when I closed the tab. I don't think that playing awful music when people come across the club site is going to entice people to join up. Just trying to help with new member enrollment.

It's harmony01, down there in Beverly Hills.

This is the question that sanding will answer. Sand it, look at it, make a decision.

I think you're talking about the splined hub. That's just a design feature of the disc. No parts to swap there. You do want to clean the splines on your transmission shaft though and test fit the disc to make sure it slides smoothly on the shaft. It doesn't move far but it does need to be free. Use a wire brush. Check the nose/snout of the transmission front cover also for grooves and wear. The throwout bearing sleeve rides on it and needs a smooth path too. If anybody let a bearing seize up in the past the spinning sleeve can do damage. Some time's the snout/nose breaks off completely.

I don't think that grinding will remove heat checking, it's usually deep. But it might produce a flatter surface. What Monroe was saying, I think, is if looks good AFTER scuffing/sanding/smoothing then it's good to go. I've done it and it worked fine. You can put a piece of sandpaper on a flat hard block and sand the surface. You'll probably be able to tell if the surface produced is flat and consistent when you're done. Fun to do even if you decide to have it ground anyway.

Just read a story about a young guy who got killed when he was ejected from his car while doing doughnuts. It rolled, he got thrown, the truck landed on him. It only takes one mistake. Forgot to say - he didn't have his seat belt fastened. The primary safety feature for car crash safety.

These are made for vacuum, pull-through, applications. Furnace oil. Kind of kidding but if you needed something to get you by until you could fix the tank, they'll hold a lot of crud and don't hinder flow. Put a ball valve in front and it's easy maintenance. https://www.amazon.com/General-Filter-1A-25B-Standard-8-Inch/

Wrong year.

Got my threads mixed up. Posting 71 info in a 70 thread that has been converted to 73. Never mind.

Here's a recent post about the Z and ZX damper pulleys. Never thought about it until now but if the pulley is bigger it will raise the alternator speed, helping the low voltage at idle problem that a lot of Z's have. Maybe everyone should switch to a ZX pulley.

I think that the dampers are a different size and you'd need a timing marker to match but a ZX damper and pulleys might be easier to find and might be workable. And, another vague memory, I think that some of the AC pulleys were removable. So your thought of bolting one on should work if you can find one and the holes are there.

If you try the things suggested and decide that you need that part then breaking/filing off the extra ear should be fine. Still interesting that you have a one-eared switch. Probably works just like the two-eared.

Have you tried working it with a screwdriver while it's open? Sometimes it's the mechanical part not the electrical switch. I've never seen a one-eared switch. Wonder if there are other differences you need to consider.

To jump a circuit just means to connect two things, in electrical terms. A jumper wire is the wire used to connect two points in a circuit. So when w3 says just jumper the blue taped connector he means connect it to some other point. Probably a power source. I don't know, exactly, what to jump it to either, but, apparently, the wire that heads back to the pump area is in that blue taped bundle. All these words and just a fraction closer. Might as well find that naugahyde wrapped blue taped bundle. You'll be even closer.

I almost added something about the Owners Manual but didn't. Didn't want to get too wordy and thought the FSM might have it. That's where the full diagrams are for some reason. Page 37. Edit - actually I didn't post the link to the diagram because he's looking for the actual harness connections. Best to just stick your head up under the dash and poke and pull and follow. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/17-owner-manuals/