Zed Head

Go immediately to Pin 13 at the ECU connector and confirm that the resistance is correct for the temperature. Check that the AFM vane moves freely and isn't stuck. Basically, check the stuff that controls fuel.

I put all six of my injectors on a rail with a pump then filled 6 Coke bottles with fuel. Battery power to the pump and the injectors, with a separate switch for both. Scary because the fuel is partially vaporized as it squirts out, especially if you try later model injectors. Have to be aware of the wind direction, sparks, and run-away paths. Only good for wide open but will show clogs. The set that came with my car were way out of balance. But the engine still ran pretty well. The idle air adjustment screw is a good idea. Just make sure to keep track of the turns so you don't get lost wondering where your start point was. But it will definitely have an effect. The EFI systems were tuned for mid-1970's fuel so today's oxygenated blends probably won't idle the same, for sure. I didn't feel bad about changing my settings at all. It's hard to get the screwdriver head, straight blade, in the slot, but it is back there. Use a mirror. Backing out lets more air past the vane, so leaner, screwing in makes it richer. It's an air passage. My intake manifold is the non-EGR N42 type. #1 is always lean, I've swapped several sets of injectors on to it, after flow-testing them to confirm that they're balanced.

One big weakness of multiport iinjection EFI is that there's an assumption that all of the cylinders get the same quantity of air. My #1 cylinder has always run lean, suggesting that it gets more air than the others. 5 and 6 tend to run rich. Kind of seems backward since #1 is behind the air path curve and 5 and 6 are at the end. It could be fixed with individual pulse control. Easier to just run rich on a few.

You didn't at Kat. @Kat Edit - is it Kat or Kats? I could only find a Kat. edit 2 - alphabetical... Too many kat before @kats

Are they the stick-on shims? Glued? This topic comes up often. I couldn't get anything but the Nissan free-floating shims to stop my squeal.

This link might be helpful as a start, you can dig up the catalog with the dimensions. I've seen where people have drilled their own hanger holes, can't remember why. I think it was a similar situation to yours. Long as they're hanging in the right spot and the contact points between pad and caliper meet, you can probably make something work. https://www.bendix.com.au/sites/default/files/news-uploads/measuring_a_brake_pad_technical_bulletin.pdf

He was a new guy, I think it was his first post, today. He wrote with authority about how the EFI system worked. I probably offended him when I gave my view of how some of EFI parts really worked. His premise was that the TVS was faulty because when the engine got close to operating temperature it would lose the ability to accelerate. Wouldn't accelerate correctly when he pressed the throttle, apparently.. Then everything would work great after the engine got fully warmed up. He was convinced that it was the TVS causing the problem. Just wondered how a person could disappear a thread.

Did anybody notice the thread from the guy that had the TPS question? Did he reply with some curses or something because I corrected him on TVS versus TPS , and get deleted,or did he delete his own thread? Or what... Just curious. Weird that it's just gone. Didn't know you could delete a whole thread, if it's yours. Maybe you can. Edit - looks like theirs a "Moderation Action of Hide. Maybe he's hiding.

We need the ratios, in order to make an informed decision. Kill, kill, kill. Interesting topic. Not sure that all wasps kill honeybees. Yellowjackets tend to live underground. Best to figure out what kind of wasps you're dealing with first.

Those two heads are essentially the same. The exhaust ports are different though, so you need the right exhaust manifold. There's another style of head for the L28, either a P79 or P90. It came with flat-top pistons. The N42 and N47 came with dished pistons.

I have that "problem". A few dull thuds then smooth running. Been doing it for ~20,000 miles at least with no change. The filter should speed up the pressurization process if the anti-drainback valve is working, but I think with thinner oil you'll always get a few knocks. I noticed when I ran Rotella that my oil pressure tended higher, despite the similar weight to other oils I had used. Those viscosity numbers are from a lab, higher pressure readings in the engine indicate higher viscosity at running temperature.

They eat bugs too. I saw a small one attack a bug on my front porch the other day. Great entertainment. http://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-41042948

Sounds like you have a short on the grounding side of the injectors. The injectors are on two parallel circuits so one short could drop voltage on several pins at the ECU connector, I believe. Could be a pinched wire in the injector harness or at an injector. Check the wires from the ECU connector to each injector closely. After you confirm that you have 12 volts available, as Dave suggests. Measure each injector circuit and see if they all show the drop or just some of them. If the threads are stripped on that starter lug try adding some washers under the nut to keep it on good threads.

Looks like it has half of the propeller shaft used for the 5 speed, the FS5C71B. Interesting. Those parts the guy has, whatever they are, might be good for a more correct resto. Had to do some research, and my guess might be wrong.

Keep an eye out for complete cars. Many old Z's are out there, not running, but still with good parts. ZX's too. Any Z or ZX up to 1983 would have an engine, transmission, and rear differential that will swap in to your 240Z. I bought a 78 280Z just for the transmission, but the engine is in my car now, and runs great. It sat for 10 years. $300 and $100 for towing. But that was a while ago.

If the guy didn't have a direct answer about the core plug I'd walk. If it popped because the coolant froze there could be a cracked block or head. Don't assume the best, assume the worst. Assuming the best is the best way to lose money when you're buying used engine parts. Edit - everything about this thread says that you're about to give a guy a lot of money for a big problem. You're exactly the person he's been looking for, a guy who needs and engine and doesn't know anything at all about them. He'll probably work hard to keep you hooked.

The question you should ask yourself is do you want to rebuild an engine, or just install an engine that's ready to run. For $400, in the states anyway, that should buy and engine ready to run. If the engine needs new rings, or an overbore, and new pistons, you'll end up spending a lot more money and the car will be down for much longer. You'll have a car that can't be driven and two engines taken apart, and a list of things that you need to buy. Just for fun, ask that guy why the core plug )many people call them freeze plugs) has been removed, and why he didn't reinstall it. Ask him if the head has been removed.

I'll try to be a bit more clear - I think that L28 engine is a pile of junk, that's probably only worth about $50. You'd be much better off to look around and find a complete used L28 engine. Or rebuild the L24. A bore scope isn't going to show you anything. That collection of parts needs a lot more than new gaskets.

Water pump, distributor, core plug in head. It's been taken apart and you have no idea how well it was re-assembled. Looks like a pile of parts.

I wouldn't buy it. It's missing many parts. It's been taken apart and slapped back together. There's a lot of risk there, the engine needs to be torn down and checked out, unless you really know and trust the guy selling it, and trust his skills also. Looks like a nightmare, even without the horrible green paint..

Looks like the L28 might need a lot of work before it's ready to install. The core plug in the back of the head has been removed, and I'd guess the head has been off for some reason, since it's not green. Kind of looks like somebody put the head back on the block just to save space, or make a sale.

Good luck. Is the L24 engine out of the car now or are you still planning? How complete is the L28 engine?

The parts will all work together. It's a common swap. The 240Z exhaust manifold might not be the best for the L28 head, use the L28 exhaust manifold.

This ones' pretty powerful - http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/62039-mopar-440-should-i/ But the aftermarket makes a GM 502 that would fit.

If I had your question, the first thing I would do is to disconnect the inlet line to the carb and measure how much fuel comes out with the pump running. If it's not close to 35 gph then there's a restriction somewhere and a higher rate pump probably won't help. Just get a jar or a cup from the kitchen, collect over a known time, then do the conversion to gph.