Zed Head

That is a weird paste. Seven links in one. The ZX vacuum cans are different from the 280Z units. Looks like you should keep your eyes open for closeouts though.

I took one apart and found that the diaphragm had become brittle and cracked. You might be able to pour some liquid urethane in to the vacuum port as a desperation measure. If it bridges the gap without leaking through it might seal it up. I wonder if one of these other Datsun parts will fit. Still spendy. Might as well get a 1-2-3 distributor. https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/vacuum-advance-distributor/duralast-vacuum-advance-distributor/293187_0_0_1382_5133 https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/vacuum-advance-distributor/duralast-vacuum-advance-distributor/293181_0_0_1382_3498

I should have seen that. He starts it at 2:00. Didn't realize that thin piece of metal was strong enough. Good to know. He even put a key on the framework of the engine stand. Should have built a seat with a throttle pedal too.

He doesn't show it running. It's from 10 months ago. Hmmmm...

I can shoot some old injectors out to you if you want to make a matched set. I have some BWD auto store brand, some Bosch, and a full set of rusty looking but balanced 1978 Denso (I think, whatever the OEM brand was).

I just went out and pressed on the pintle tip of a functionable injector using a small allen wrench. I could feel it opening and closing, tick-tick-tick. Really didn't take much force at all. I didn't feel like it was even close to being damaged. It felt about like what it is, a small spring loaded valve. If you can't get it open using just slight hand force, it's probably toast.

Some of the caps are made of rubbery material. You can twist them off, but still reuse them. I have some old injectors I can go poke at. Pretty sure the spring is not that strong.

What does it do?

I had a 1976 combined pump and EFI relay that would overheat and have a coil go open circuit. The coils were a little bit burnt. You can peel the little tabs back and remove the cover. After you finish the tests. Good practice on meter operation and test procedure.

Don't know about what you're doing, but the TC rod definitely assembles easier with weight on the strut. If the wheel is hanging it's almost impossible to get the bolts in.

Vapor vent

Fuel

That's four sketchy electrical connections. The distributor wires, the condenser, the fusible link, and this. The distributor wires can actually put a big voltage spike. The alternator can get spiked, apparently, if the battery gets disconnected. Bad things happen with bad electrical connections. Might be time for a general search and destroy mission.

Before the problem or after? A volt/ohm meter would tell you a lot. Measure voltage at the points. Confirm that they have a ground path. Close them, open them.

Figure out where the line is connected. There is a supply line, a return line, and a vent line. The filter looks like it is on a smaller line than the one next to it. It might be on the vent line. p.s. you have too many threads going on too many different forums for me. Too chaotic and unfocused. Good luck.

I wonder if the "stock" distributor was stock to a 240Z. The good news is that it used to run. It's almost midnight in Copenhagen. 11:43 pm.

It's usually caused by heat. Higher RPM flows more current through certain parts of the module. Maybe you just haven't been revving it up over the last week. Now that you have some ideas maybe one of them will fit the symptoms better. That's a good thread you picked out. FastWoman gives good advice.

Yes, that is it. Without a tachometer you have a dilemma. You can either guess at solutions or rig up a way to see if you're losing spark. You could wire in a GM HEI module for a $25 test method. Or wire in an LED on the coil wire. Hang it out of the hood, if it stops flashing you've lost spark. You might see if you can make it happen at rest. Just rev the engine up to 4000 RPM in the driveway and see if it dies. If you can find a way to reproduce it with the hood open there are some tricks you can try.

The order in which you did all of these things might be a clue. Your first sentence implies that the 1-2-3 system produced some spark, but the engine would not start and run. Is that correct? It's not clear after that if you immediately reinstalled the points distributor or if you replaced all of those parts then installed the points distributor. Kind of looks like you might have just got some wires wrong when you reinstalled the points distributor. Points systems are very easy to check since you can open and close the points by hand. With a meter you can check that the circuit is being made and being broken, and that there is a circuit to ground. Much less mystery than electronic systems.

Your description isn't quite right. You said you were cruising along and the engine died then you applied gas. The details will give a better answer. Your symptoms look a lot like mine when my ignition module died. I could reproduce the problem by revving over 3000 PRM. Watch the tachometer needle. The module location is shown in the Engine Electrician chapter. https://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/ p.s. I finally figured out what the + next to Quote is for. Symbology is aggravating. Guess...

I think so. It has many tips for increasing power but maintaining durability. How to unshroud valves, match ports, get the rotating parts balanced for higher revs, choose lash pads and confirm wipe patterns. The kind of things you'll need to do to get 200-220 HP, I think. Probably help you pick the right machinist also for any work done. The authors of those two books shared a lot of information so there's some overlap. The two books are a good set.

Does everything still work correctly? There is no need to put extra effort in to insulating those wires. If you still want to do it, you could cut the ring off, add the shrink tube, then put a new ring on.

But I think that he's just guessing on some of it, like we all do. He said he didn't want to mess with the balance but then he still did some grinding. But he didn't see what might actually be a balancing divot right above his grinding area.

He covers a lot of important stuff though.

Get a proper damper puller. This guy risks tearing his damper apart.