Zed Head

Just curious but are those the right lug nuts for those wheels? Mag wheel lug nuts extend deep in to the wheel. Mine barely stick out past the edge of the wheel center but they have plenty of thread engagement. https://www.gorilla-auto.com/gorilla-tech-tips

If he plans to swap a V8 in that wouldn't matter so much. Generally, I say pick a car that has the least of what you hate doing and the most of what you like. Why buy a rusty Series I car with a low VIN (high value to many) if you hate body work and want to modify it? I bought my non-running 76 car, engine quality unknown, because it was straight, no body work required, with minor rust. I've had several diffs and transmissions in it, different seats, suspension, brakes, and it has a 1978 engine. Great fun doing all of that work and I never smelled Bondo once, or got sanding dust on me.

What are your plans, and what are your skills? Find out more about how long it's been sitting and what is broken. California has non-op fees also. You should just put your city in your avatar, searching area codes is a pain.

Negative. Not bad.

The point of dat240z71's story is in post #27 and those that follow. Pretty funny. Dent. Thanks dat. That dented "Series 1" car might actually be worth $5500 or more. What's the VIN? I'm guessing that 2fourtyzee was still offended from being turned down, hence the tude. AV8's CL post looks like a good deal.

And there's this. It actually runs. Could be an adventure. https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/portland-1976-datsun-280z-coupe-low/6829015433.html

They are out there. You know that your title says - $5000, but you wrote - $2000. Is it 5 or 2? This guy just posted.

You're avoiding the point now. If you know a thing or two, show it, don't talk about it. You're the one who claims to know, not me. lol

How about a picture of one of yours and a ballpark price? Just for reference. You might be one of the guys that has inflated ideas. lol. Let's get the whole picture.

Does it read zero when it's disconnected? That's always a good first check of a gauge.

With the engine running, doesn't matter about the battery. Your other voltage test showed that your alternator is providing high voltage.

We'd like to see if the number rises above 38.5 psi. Plus it's always good to rerun your tests, to verify results. Your earlier test with low battery voltage showed about 35.5 psi. We just want to see consistent verifiable results. It's sounding like you need a new FPR. The test will confirm it. (Assuming that the gauge is good).

They will tell you if the FPR is the cause of your engine running rich. Hopefully you'll get 36-37 psi with the hose disconnected, and about 30 psi with the hose connected. Then you can move on to other possibilities.

Sometimes I yell at my television set...

Not if the FPR is intact. I would start the engine and get a fuel pressure reading. The disconnect the hose and you should see a rise in fuel pressure, because you have removed engine vacuum from the FPR. That's really all you need to do. Those two numbers will tell a lot.

Some explanation - the FPR reacts to either vacuum or air pressure on that hose. Vacuum will cause the fuel pressure to decrease, pressure will cause it to increase. So if you find the end of the hose that connects to the FPR and blow on it the pressure will increase slightly, If you suck on it the fuel pressure will decrease slightly.

If the vacuum line to the FPR is connected to the carbon canister that might be part of your problem. It should be connected directly to the intake manifold. So, yes disconnect the other end. But make sure that it is actually the hose that connects to the FPR. Then if you want to have some fun, blow and suck on the end of the hsoe and watch the gauge. You should see a response. But get that baseline no vacuum number first.

Disconnect the hose to the FPR with the engine running and read the pressure on the gauge. That's the test.

The FPR, disconnect the vacuum hose to the FPR with the engine running.

Do that same exact test but disconnect the hose from the FPR to the intake manifold. That's the test!!!. So close.

So close, so close. I can even see the pressure gauge in the back of one of the pictures. We're really more interested in the fuel pressure at those voltages. We don't really care about the voltage itself. Looks like that latest video might have it.. let's watch.

And, this has come up before, piston choices are really limited these days. Rockauto has one STD size piston available. One piston. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1978,280z,2.8l+l6,1209260,engine,piston,5620 Datsun Spirit sells custom pistons. https://datsunspirit.com/shop/

The ignition system can be used on anything. It's the EFI system that will give problems. You might be fine with your power increases, or you might find that it runs a little rich at the low end, or it pings at the high end. Or it won't pass emissions. The adjustable FPR is a crude way to add fuel at the higher RPM so that the cam has what it needs to make power. But then you'll have to make adjustments to other parts at low RPM or you'll have a gassy smelling car. That's the basic dilemma. The EFI system has no O2 sensors so does not self-correct anything at all. It's designed to produce a certain amount of power at each RPM range. But it actually runs pretty rich at WOT, 27% extra fuel, so there's a little room there without doing too much.

Post #8 here is good. CO is in the thread but he was on a mission based on the presumption that modern rims wouldn't fit the 280Z hubs. Doesn't seem to have been confirmed. There's a good list to start from.

That's a good question. Plus, you need an old wheel. But, I'm pretty sure that other people have found late model spares from import cars that swap over directly and fit the spare tire well. There are common 4 1/2" bolt patterns out there. Tried to find some of the threads but haven't yet.