Zed Head

I think you guys are right. I also realized another simple one after staring at those pictures. 240Z's only have one strut holding up the hatch lid, 280Z's have two. Well, that was fun. Somebody put a lot of work in to turning a 240Z in to, essentially, a 280Z. This is a 78 with the raised deck. And a 75 just to top it off. The 240Z style caps on the 280Z tall strut towers. With two hatch lid struts. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1975-datsun-280z-26/

Found a 240Z shot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3JgxSUpfICw

Maybe it is a 240Z. Still not good pictures. The angles are off. Need that shot from the back.

I studied the rear shock towers too but couldn't form a definitive thought. You'd have to see two bare sets side by side I think. I pasted the other shot down below. Maybe someone has a similar view of either a 240Z or 280Z? @grannyknot ? I found one, at least, but he likes to shoot from distance. Pasted below, down to the shell resto 240Z. Can't tell it looks like the tower has a bow in it while the blue one doesn't. Don't know!. But wait (after I wrote a bunch of junk below) isn't the distance from the top of the wheel well to the top of the tower longer in the blue car? Is that it!? The definitive?!?!? I pasted two pics at the end... Thank you grannyknot (of course, it could be an illusion, from my fevered mind). Darn it, just realized I'm looking at the back of one and the front of another. More searching... You can get in to some really complex "why/how" loops. Yesterday (I'm obsessed) I was thinking about the brackets for the magnet valves. Did the 240Z's have those same brackets? If not, how did they mount the magnet valves? Where is the engine bay plate, with the car number and engine number? Why did somebody remove it? Both are gone, 240Z or 280Z. Who knows, maybe it is a 240Z with a lot of effort in to installing 280Z parts. 280Z doors, 280Z tach (with wire from the negative post and resistor to run it), engine, EFI system (with computer, assumed, plus fuel pump plus larger fuel return line because the 240Z return line is too small for an EFI pump volume). Why move the two fusible link blocks over? They were really helpful until I showed the firewall VIN location.

That Beverly Hills Car Club that has the blue 1972 (1976) beater was on Gas Monkey Garage in the past, I think. I haven't heard back since I told them where to look to make sure the VIN was correct. They have a title so maybe they're going to pretend they don't know. https://www.beverlyhillscarclub.com/1972-datsun-240z-c-11820.htm

$30,000 is not enough for a super-modded 73. Reserve not met.

Did you tell him about the not-a-72 at Beverly Hills Car Club? I wouldn't buy any low numbers car without seeing the firewall stamp.

He doesn't know the big money is on BAT? Craigslist for #738? I feel ironic here... Gonna need to see that firewall stamp. And why are the rivet heads hidden?

Both pumping and bidding, or investing and collecting? Seems in the vein of "I paid a lot therefore everyone must pay a lot". Like the guys who jump on to the sales ads to make sure that nobody gets a good deal when somebody lists a car for a low price. Just something distasteful about it. But that's why I don't collect (invest) in old stuff.

And this guy, lsteppe4re, is interesting. He's pumping up the bid while bidding himself. Has to be an investor/collector. Got to keep those prices up. Or he just has money to blow.

The guy that left them is on BAT if someone wants to start a conversation.

So, build your car for the masses, or build the car for yourself? Let's get philosophical... The seller just bought the car in 2018. Wonder why they're selling already. If it's an investment then the round top change probably makes sense. It's a commercial item, you need to give the consumer what they want.

Maybe they work as they were supposed to. No reason to change if they do.

$24,000 for the nice orange 72. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-156/

Ouch. Don't let that get out of control. Good luck.

It's the wind. Seems simple enough. https://www.yahoo.com/news/infected-5-minutes-20-feet-192346911.html

So close. Try to miss your dog when you vomit. Or, actually, he'd probably enjoy the meal. Dogs will eat anything.

$12,000 for an average 260Z. Not bad. It's the red paint.

It wasn't a tooth! Sure it wasn't. Gohmert is a mask convert now, of course, but tooth little tooth late. https://www.yahoo.com/entertainment/rep-louie-gohmerts-speech-goes-014909870.html

I had the sinking pedal in my car when I first got it. I remember sitting in the driver's seat pressing the pedal trying to understand where the fluid could be going that the seals were supposed to be pushing in to the lines. The hydraulic seals and the cylinder were designed to hold, with no leakage. "How can this be?" I realized that it couldn't be, the seals must be bad. https://itstillruns.com/test-brake-master-cylinder-5779577.html

Edit - found one, and sent it. Odds are that they'll realize the numbers don't match and I won't hear back. Who knows. Does anybody have a picture of the VIN stamped in to the firewall that I could pass along to Beverly Hills Auto, to show where to look? I have searched the web but can't find a good one. It's surprising, especially after this discussion how none of the BAT cars have that VIN shown, even though it's the most difficult of the ID's to change. I've sent illustrations of where it should be but a real picture would help. They don't know these cars. Beverly Hills is helpful, they asked if the engine block number was it, and sent a picture. Which shows an L28 engine block, of course. p.s. thanks @zeeboost and @lonetreesteve for letting me run with your starts. I like a good project. The Beverly Hill group actually has a lot of neat cars, I think that they're just a consignment shop that is still learning.

Put "bad master cylinder" in the search box and interesting threads will come up. Aftermarket parts... Most auto parts stores have indefinite returns, and the MC is actually east to swap. Just a pain to rebleed again. If you want to get a feel for the mechanicals you could disconnect the return spring on your pedal. Then you can see/feel where the pedal starts working. Try pressing the pedal really hard while the engine is off. The booster kind of takes away the feel. If the MC is bad you'll feel the pedal slowly sink. You'll have an image of brake fluid slipping past seals as it sinks to the floor.

1978 2+2, blue. Looks clean. No reserve! Automatic, R180. Family cruiser. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1978-datsun-280z-22-7/

Can't really see quality control being so poor that Nissan would rivet through the numbers. When did the door handles and arm rest show up on the driver's side? And of what style. The blue thing has 76 door handles. I'll send those guys a message showing where to find the real VIN. Let's see how far the rebadger went. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-141/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-151/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-Datsun-240Z/224263144994?hash=item3437200622:g:HPAAAOSw3ZFfyTd8

I'm obsessed. It's missing the car id plate. Of course, you'd remove that if you were rebadging as a 72.