Zed Head

Motorsport's price isn't bad. Don't forget about shipping costs though. Rockauto has a selection. And, your local auto store can probably get them. The advantage there is that if they don't fit or are out of balance, you can return them. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1972,240z,2.4l+l6,1209169,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor,1896 Or, you might think about having them turned. I had some truck rotors turned at the local NAPA shop and they did a great job. They can turn them while they're still on the hubs, so that you don't have to replace the bearings. Plus, they should keep their balance, and runout won't be affected. The grooves might look bad but you have to measure to know. Many options. Slotted rotors these days are mostly for looks. Because race car. New vehicles don't generally come with slots, or holes, in the rotors. Plus, they're prone to cracking.

Jacob Silj just joined! Welcome JACOB! It looks LIKE you've worked on these cars BEFORE!

Yes, that is the classic sign of a holed brake booster. When you press the brake pedal you open up a vacuum leak. People have been known to rebuild them. Disassembly is actually shown in the FSM. But most just replace them, with a reman. They're hard to find, and quality is generally poor. I don't think that you can get rebuild parts easily either. Edit - a simple test would be to disconnect and block the vacuum hose to the booster, then press the pedal and see if the problem is there. Whether RPM drop or rise depends on the size of the hole. 246, you're showing fixes for RPM hanging high while driving. Pretty sure the OP is just sitting still, pressing the brake pedal.

It's just water. Check out where ODOT used salt on the roads and avoid that route. Oregon doesn't generally use salt they only used it in a couple of experimental areas. Not sure what WADOT does. I think if you stay east of the mountains you'll be fine. The big storm isn't supposed to be here until Saturday. I've driven my 280 in heavy rain and it's no problem. It rained back in the 70's also, you know. Forgot to add a little map for those who want to see the PNW. I still remember trying to convince my friends in West Virginia that we had desert out here. Forget about the volcano.

That seems to be the current scenario. There are few 225 mm flyhweels out there. People will have stories of the place they bought one at 3 or 4 years ago, but when you go back they're NLA. I think that the reason there are 240 mm flyhweels out there is because they were also used on various truck and SUVs. We'll all have to convert eventually.

I assumed that you'd read the other clutch thread. It's just an option. Look at post #4 -

Does ken know that he sounds like AI?

Slovers was a well known shop for L engine head work, as I understand it. Sounds like a good find. Better make sure it's not high compression ratio, or at least know what the CR is. Might be a race engine, needing high octane fuel.

There are still automotive machine shops around that will resurface a flywheel, for about $50. You probably don't need a new one. You live in Ohio. There are probably five within driving distance of you.

Probably easier, and less fuel to mess with. Plus you'll be under their anyway. Probably do it all in one shot. Don't forget to remove the gas cap so the vacuum relief valve isn't involved.

https://www.klmperformance.com/inline-fuel-line-strainer-prefilter.html Dave, there's not really enough info to draw conclusions about that filter. They say "high flow" but don't give any numbers. So, nobody can say, with true authority, that it's right or wrong. Plenty of opinions out there though. The simple test would be to measure flow before and after installation. Looks like it has potential. The FASS fuel line filter/strainer element benefits: Are offered as a universal in-line fuel filter element. This high flow inline pre-filter element is an inline fuel strainer for pre-pump installation. Are available in either 3/8" or 1/2" I.D. sizes for in-line fuel line installation. Both of these in line pre-filters from Fleetguard have a 24-micron stainless mesh inner cage. Can hold a 13-gram capacity which prevents large particles from entering the fuel pump. The Fleetguard replacement inline fuel filters are designed for inlet side filtration only! Fleetguard In-line Fuel Strainers are a high flow element that will not restrict fuel supply to your fuel pump.

Seems spendy. 240 mm flywheels are still available.

Why not run something industrial? The farming industry dumps non-performing products pretty quickly. The aftermarket auto industry focuses on flash and buzz. Probably spend more on the fittings than the actual filter though. 1" NPT. http://www.circlecsupply.com/goldenrod-495-fuel-filter-with-1-npt-fitting.html

Is it a lightened 225 mm flywheel, or 240? The 240 is the turbo flywheel, and the turbos were rated at 180 HP, I believe. You'll want the 240, with the right pressure plate and clutch disc. Not so sure that factory spec replacements are where you want to end up, with 250 HP, although starting there might be okay. Don't forget that it's torque and traction that overload clutches, and other drivetrain parts. And how you use it.

No offense intended to you or your family members but I'd run that thing over to CO and let him have a look. Sounds like you have an odd mismatch of dimensions or something is bent. He did offer, and he does drive a train you know...

I saw this and I thought "why?". Then I remembered.

Went out and found a picture of a 1986 300ZX intank pump with the screen encapsulating the pickup area. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1986,300zx,3.0l+v6,1209563,fuel+&+air,fuel+pump,6256 It's what people should try to be replicating, or be trying to replicate (grammar lockup in my brain,) if they poke a hole in their in tank sock. Don't know the specs but there's a lot of surface area.

Just wanted to know where the "fact" that the socks are 80-120 microns came from. The source of the information. A verified number that people can use to specify the type of media that they want to place in front of their pump. And conflating filters with strainers is where people get screwed up. It's the basis for the original collapsing G3 story. CM, are people you offer tuning advice to "customers"? Sounds like you have a business but I think that you're just offering free support to people over the internet. Is there a business behind it? Just verifying. It's my nature.

But is it a filter or a screen? Most tanks have the sock/strainer. But they're not really fine enough to be called filters. That's why Nissan calls them a strainer, and the filter a filter. I think. Microns are small. I tried to find the EF mention but couldn't.

You can get them at Harbor Freight for about $5. Not the greatest but you really need one to make good progress on these cars. After testing the sensor, the TPS comes next.

Do you have a multimeter? To measure resistance? You'll be way ahead if you measure resistance at the ECU connector.

I have one, down here in the Portland area, that I could sell you if you can't find one. I started collecting them for some reason and have three 5 speeds, and a 4 speed now, plus the 5 speed in my car. Shipping to the east coast is gong to get you though. You might rephrase your question to local rebuilders, unless you want to ship. Good luck. And, whatever you do, avoid California Datsun.

Probably have to buy a used one and have it rebuilt, as the thread ends. Datsun Spirit is still around. https://datsunspirit.com/

Is the premise now that the inner race is not seating fully on the axle (not spindle, there's no spindle on the back end)? Still having problems with the "new" replacement distance piece? Not sure what's happening, or not happening, here.

I've never see a factory installed prefilter on any car? Has anyone? How do you know the size of the pores of the in-tank strainer?