Zed Head

The Megajolt Lite requires a crank trigger. There is a ton of possibilities out there. Probably get better advice if you describe the "issue". Make the solution fit the problem.

If Frank Monise was 20 when he started the business in 1949, he'd be 89 now. I'm thinking that his grandson Greg is probably the thief and Frank doesn't know. Frank Jr might know though. And they're all down there around Rancho Cucamonga. Seems like a thieves den for Datsun parts. People just don't realize that everything we do is on the internet. And they put it out there, with their stories of "legendary and famous". Doubt that the fame was for gouging customers and selling fake parts. Stanceworks has promoted thieves before, there was a guy, Senza Pari, who ripped off many people. Wasn't there a guy from the Vintage Racing League onhere a while ago. Now they're sullied. Frank probably started out as an honorable guy. Nepotism does something to people. I'm a little over the top here, but all of this stealing and lying that's on the news every day is getting to me. http://www.thevrl.com/profile/GregMonise http://www.stanceworks.com/2016/05/frank-monise-motors-mating-power-precision-and-perfection/ https://www.mgexp.com/member/eprodb http://www.frankmonisemotors.com/

I had a tach problem with mine. It just sat and quivered at about 500 RPM after the GM HEI swap. I "reasoned" that the signal was too noisy and added a condenser/capacitor to the negative side of the coil. It worked. I'm not trained in electronics beyond a 101 course about 30 years and things I've picked up since then but sometimes my guesses lead to results, maybe for the wrong reasons. I confirmed that the condenser was needed when the wire to the capacitor broke later and the tach stopped working. I used a condenser/capacitor from the back of an alternator. Worth a shot and can't hurt anything. Forgot to say, congratulations on getting it to run. Now you're hooked. And you can check for voltage at the 2.2K resistor connection to see if the blue wire is connected. It's easier than removing the tach to get to the plug. The 2.2K resistor is a small lump in the wiring by the connection block area, down by the fuse box. It's black and uses two bullet connectors. Check for voltage with the key on. Also, it might be that whoever took the ECU out also removed that wire. Good luck.

Interesting that the new 240Zlover777 has 100% positive feedback. The eBay rating system seems weak.

Not so sure people aren't going a little too far here. The guy is not selling them as OEM. Edit - the price alone is offensive though. It's got URGELIS all over it.

Search "240z shim squeal" "280Z shim squeal" on your favorite search engine. See what you see... Edit - or just take a chance. Then you'll have the true knowledge of before and after. Won't hurt you. My experience was that it's not the pads.

It wouldn't be a "choke" then, it would be a fast idle mechanism. So what 246 said makes sense and is the classic way of starting an old car that has a carb with an accelerator pump. Which, apparently, the Webers do. Pump the pedal a few times to get some raw gas in to the manifold, let it sit for 10-20 seconds to get some vapor, then try to start it. If it starts you might have to keep working the throttle pedal to richen up the mixture, since, apparently, there is no true "choke". Once it catches and keeps running, the fast idle cable will hold the throttle open for you. Most old 50s ,60s, and 70s cars work that way. But they have a true choke which richens the mixture by choking the upstream side of the venturi creating lower pressure to pull more fuel from the bowls. They also have bimetal strip controlled fast idle systems on the throttle mechanism. The old cars have some pretty cool mechanical methods to do what the electronics do today.

BaT is an interesting site. The buyer bid on a BMW earlier, and it looks like he is someway of a collector. Has an NSX, apparently. https://bringatrailer.com/member/mschoemann/ The seller sells a lot of Z's, and other cars. https://bringatrailer.com/member/The240zGuild/

Love the "people are starting to appreciate" comments. Seems like that gets written every time a Z sells. What does "resealing" an engine mean? Engine has been resealed.

Of course. There's always an exception.

Funny, I just realized that I copied the link for a 300ZX. I had searched for a 1995 Pathfinder and only saw the year, not the car. Just redid it and searched for a 1997 Pathfinder. All that comes up is 300ZX's. So, the 1997 Pathfinder FSM is not available, from anywhere anymore. So, they really did cut people off. Cold.

I went a little overboard. But the manuals have been out there for many many years. And they don't really make much money from them. They're probably hurting themselves more than the consumer. Nicoclub is like a fan club for Nissan owners. Not a good PR move. So, my comment about "driving people to the dealership" is probably wrong. What they really want is for people to buy new cars because their old ones break down and are too expensive to fix. Big picture wise, it's a petty move that pisses people off. They do sell the manuals on CD. But apparently, even though you've paid for it, you still have to watch ads. How crazy is that? It's like cable TV. https://www.courtesyparts.com/factory-service-manuals/factory-service-manual-and-parts-microfiche-cd-rom-1994-300zx/cdz3294?parent=1221

I almost commented about shims the first time around. Get the shims, for behind the pads, if you don't already have them. MSA says that they only have one side but you can break the tabs off and make them work. The tabs are for convenience during installation. Some people don't have the problem with no shims but they are a guaranteed solution and don't hurt anything f they're still flat. If you live by MSA you can always get them later, easily, and take the pads off one more time.

Here's a bummer. Nissan NA is trying to drive owners of old Nissans to the dealerships, by cutting off access to service documents. Greedy, ignorant, fools (Nissan NA, not us). Edit - I posted the wrong link. I was trying to find a service manual for someone and came across Nicoclub's announcement. Here's the correct link. http://nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

I just wanted to confirm that "choke on" is higher or lower RPM. I have a 280Z so don't know what the choke does on these cars. Just confirming, with numbers. I love numbers. I like the potentiometer idea. I proposed it in a past thread, but it might have been for one of the MSD/tach problems. Great minds!!!! Really, this problem crops up now and then, and it should be either too much or too little current. There's a solution for either. If I recall right, the stock system does not add up to 3 ohms of resistance, so there's no obvious answer. We need numbers! Edit - by the way, the quick way to bypass the tach would be to just tap in to the supply line and the return line, in th harness. One inch of wire, in the harness, you don't need to even get up close to the tach. You could put a potentiometer there to control resistance of the bypass. If the pot in the bypass doesn't work, move it to the tach supply line.

You said that you had an external meter but never said what RPM was with the choke on. The Z's charging systems are known for bing weak at idle. So, actually, even though it's not supposed to be the case, there might be lower current at lower RPM. It should show up as voltage on your meter, since the two are related by Ohm's Law. So, if we knew what the idle RPM are with the choke on, something might become clear. I don't think that what people commonly call the "choke" is actually a choke, so can't really guesstimate idle RPM.

Actually, after I posted that I remembered where the hoses go. The small one with no hose is the control hose. It goes to ported vacuum on the bottom of the throttle body. The one next to it goes to a big port on the intake manifold. The far one goes back to the tank. You might be saying the same thing, I'm just confirming. The way it works is that when the throttle is opened the small hose opens the valve so that the big hose can suck air through the canister in to the intake manifold, clearing out the gas vapors that have come from the tank. It's a small amount of air but it's set up so that it's not a vacuum leak at idle. It's just a small vacuum leak when the throttle is open. I think that it's the only planned vacuum leak on the intake system. The only air that does not pass through the AFM.

Did you break those 2x4's with your bare hands? And please tell us that thing is not what it looks like. Although, safety first...

That is weird. The guys that understand how the "choke" works might know more. Can't see how a carb setting would affect electrical.

Firstly - tell your Dad to get that scratchy metal off of your paint. On the charcoal canister there is a label that tells where the hoses go. I copied and annotated a picture, below. And one of those picture looks like it is T-ed in to the PCV system. But the thing that it's connected to is a bigger clue. Added a picture of that also. Take a picture of that and we'll know more.

What does it do? Or not do? One problem with the 240Z system is that all of the coil current runs through the tach. So, when you get more current flow it can cause problems. I've proposed this before, but I don't think that anyone has tried it. You could split the circuit through the tach by adding a bypass wire. This would cut current through the tach but let full current through the coil and module. That assumes that the problem is too much current. If it's too little current then you'd have to get a lower ohm coil. I'm not sure which is the cause, since the Pertronix instructions try to get you close to the current you had before. If your other coil was still good, you could put it and the ballast back on. If you don't have the Pertronix II, there is no coil "power" increase. It's just a points-elimination procedure.

There was a discussion about this a year or two ago. Are you sure that you need to remove it? I had a similar problem with a Pathfinder and found that Nissan sold a stick-on replacement. It glued directly to the old glass. Allowed me to keep the heaters inside. In the thread somebody mentioned a place that would cut mirror glass to shape. Get some good contact cement and you'll be back in action with just a little extra thickness of the glass.

Just remembered also that I placed something under the fork, inside the case, before hitting it with the drift. I think that was the hardest part, getting it supported.

I remember trying to figure out that puzzle when I took a 5 speed apart. I wasn't rebuilding, just tearing a broken one down. I think that I used a long drift through that opening in the case. There might have been some channel-locks involved also to squeeze the pin out. It's wedge-shaped on the end, like the lock bolt for the spindle pin. Apparently, it's supposed to be easy to get out.

Yes, we can all see the posts. Hold your cursor over a member's name and the option to send a private message will appear. By the way, tapping a hot wire to an injector will not cause them to open. They are opened by grounding the power that is already there. So, if you take the plug off then you need to supply a hot and a ground. A 9 volt battery is commonly used, or you can ground them at the ECU connector, individually. Just sayin...