Zed Head

Rebuild the one you have. Fastwoman wrote up what she did with hers. They're pretty simple devices, parts-wise.

Not sure but it looks like it might have one of those "crap my wheel just fell off" rolled up rear quarters. Something seems to be missing. Maybe hiding it with the motorcycle handle bar.

Interesting posts on Hybridz.org regarding fusible links (that's me in my other pen name). dmorales used to post over here I think. Edit - actually he still does, just on different topics. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123252-280z-restomod-progress/?page=7&tab=comments#comment-1207295

Might be because the weather is cooling around here but all of a sudden there's a bunch of cars for sale. https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/d/81-datsun-280zx/6696448147.html https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/d/83-datsun-280zx/6695126826.html https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/ctd/d/1980-datsun-280zx-coupe-top/6694385453.html https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/d/1979-datsun-280zx/6683655333.html https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/1977-datsun-280z/6681195403.html https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/cto/d/1982-datsun-280zxt/6672645630.html

I'm pretty sure the switch assembly is two parts, with one part being a clamping mechanism. Two screws hold it together. I have a spare in the garage, from a 78. I think that you could unplug the switch and ground the head lamp wires directly, to see if they get brighter. If they don't get brighter then cleaning the switch won't help. Found this picture on eBay. I'm rich!

Wow, injector prices have really gone up. BWD even changed the color of theirs, they're not green anymore. Give me time to ponder. I wonder if you shouldn't get back to Fuel Injection Services in the meantime. Your test shows the reconditioning was not effective, they are unbalanced. They didn't replace the nozzle, that part is called the pintle cap. It doesn't affect the spray pattern unless it's the wrong one. The only replaceable parts on these fuel injectors are the filter screen in the inlet and the plastic pintle cap. They are permanently swaged together during assembly. Can't be disassembled. Reconditioning really just means cleaning. They should have checked the flow balance on their own equipment. Usually those places give some documentation showing what they got.

Great info either way. Thanks for posting. If I recall right the brake lines have the same problem, I seem to remember having to use a wrench when I swapped calipers because the nut was too small on my Earl's brake lines. Weird that Earl's can't do metric or just decided that theirs were "close enough". http://www.technafitstore.com/Brake-Line-Kits-s/1825.htm

I got an error message. https://www.technafitstore.com/searchresults.asp?Submit=Go&Search=ncl-110 I found this one though. http://www.technafitstore.com/NISSAN-Clutch-Line-Kit-p/nc-100.htm

I saw your PM. Let me go take a look at what I have. The 78 injectors are still on a rail, sealed, so might still have some wet fuel inside. I'm sure I could fit them in a flat rate USPS envelope.

Sounds like you haven't even got it started yet. You might try wrapping the neck of the tank with something like Mylar sheet in a cone shape, or stick a bunch of zip ties up the rubber tube as you try to get it started on the metal tube from the tank. Make a ramp of sorts for the rubber, along with some type of lubricant. Once the edges of the rubber are are over the edge of the metal pull the Mylar or the zip ties out then see what happens. I'll bet some long zip ties would help you get it started and would pull out easily. You might also be able to temporarily stretch the mouth of the rubber tube using some kind of cone shape jammed in it for a while.

Make sure the triggering mechanisms are in the same place before and after the swap. In this case you'd have to know how the electronic trigger works compared to the points trigger. It's a bit more than plug and play, more like like plug, fiddle around, examine and adjust, then play.

One more thing - the Nissan injectors just spray a thin stream, no cloud of vapor. So, your injectors might not be stock Nissan anyway. Have you checked resistance on them? Maybe somebody installed 16 ohm injectors. I looked back at your first page and I see voltage but not resistance. p.s. I have a set of OReilly Auto BWD injectors that I bought and ran for about a year. I also have the set of 78 Nissan injectors, old and rusty. I actually like them better. I could ship them out to you for not much. They're just sitting in my garage. I ran them on the engine and tested them, but switched to a different system when I was fighting hot-start issues.

The work is well done. Bummer though that nothing dramatic is showing up. Could be that the injector functions aren't right, that they aren't opening rapidly, maybe sticking at low frequency/RPM. That would be the benefit of a dynamic test. I showed my results from a set of injectors that actually worked well on the engine and they were much more unbalanced than those. So even though the volumes aren't balanced for yours the engine still shouldn't have the problems it does if it's just a clogging problem. Seems like a new set of injectors would be in order since those aren't flowing evenly. But, considering all, it might not fix the problem. But, it might. Or it might not. Who knows. For the record, the fuel pressure on the gauge is still too high, which partially explains why most of the injectors flowed over 94 cc. I have another set of injectors from a 1978 280Z that are old and rusty and sat on a non-running engine for 10 years. They flowed perfectly even at full flow, for all 6. Sorry you're not finding that smoking gun. If I had been there when you did that test drive in the video I would have cranked the potentiometer to high resistance to make sure that it wasn't a lean problem. Sometimes you just have to try stuff. Anyway, I don't think I'd put those injectors back on for a permanent fix. They're not right. Maybe for more testing though.

You still want to clean up the terminals to make sure that they have good contact. Nissan put them in a bad spot.

Should have posted a picture of what you're calling "jumped together" on your car, not someone else's fusible link covers. The fusible links look like jumper wires. Yours might be fine. Stole this from an eBay ad...

If you like it, buy it. Every car that any forum member owns here probably has 50 other members who wouldn't have bought it. Some members have never even driven their cars. Something for everybody here. Take a pocketful of cash over there and take it for a test drive.

I ended up using a fan wired in to the defrost circuit. It's a 20 amp circuit. A cheap Oreilly Auto fan got me by the first few years until I got all of my leaks fixed and things finally dried out completely.

The CL ad does have some of the typical buyer beware stuff in it. He wants a Z, just not this one. " I'm just testing the water's so to speak here, seeing if someone out there might be looking for a toy like this. I'm looking for a more Stock 240z to have and drive, is the only reason this is up for sale."

He made nice use of an older heating oil filter. I've not seen that before.

Build some low profile ramps, wide, out of wood and use them to get that 2" you need to get your bigger jack under there. Four fairly thin blocks of wood that you can stack in a corner. Throw them down, drive up on them, jack the car up and put them back in the corner. You don't need them when you drop the jack down. Just a thought. I bought a full size truck recently and it wasn't long before I built a wide platform from wood to stand on for engine work. It's the "down" side of trucks. I changed the oil yesterday with no jacks and no problems 'cause it's high. Then needed the wooden platform I built to stand on so I could refill it. And it's not one of those high risers, it's actually on the low side. Anyway, when you have extra wood laying around ideas come to mind.

Hope you're not like Carlos. Don't get in a rush. Texas has year round driving weather right?

That body has been fairly heavily modified. If he cut the fender wells for big tires the flares might be essentially permanent. The tail light panel looks like it's from a different brand of car, the round lights aren't ZX at all. Looks Toyotay. The parts list just looks like general tune-up stuff. Weird that the gas cap is missing in one of the pictures though. Makes you think it's not a daily driver. You'll spend a lot of time saying "I bought it this way"...

Which one of these are you in... https://www.google.com/search?client=opera&q=Salem+Township&sourceid=opera&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

Without more history it's hard to say. If the car sat for 10 years then worked for a week after you got it running, is different than it's been a daily driver for 10 years that just got a new clutch. You can peel the dust boot off of the slave cylinder by hand. If it's full of fluid you'll know it's bad. Br careful it might have some pressure behind and squirt.

Here's a possibility, related to heat. That third pin on the ignition module is actuated by a thermal switch somewhere, I think. So it might actually be the ignition module. I think that you can test that by short-circuiting the switch or the module. You could explore that by examining the FSM chapter to see how, exactly, it works, in the meantime.