Zed Head

Engine Mechanical chapter. There's a lot in it you can go through it many times and always pick up something new. The bright link is not really needed if you have the notch, and the ignition timing marks on the damper. Get Monroe's "How To Rebuild... book. https://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine-ebook/dp/B006VUICHG

I actually avoided commenting on the blue car just because it seemed like a messy discussion. Thought I had the easy solution with the VIN posted from Beverly Hills. I had found that jdmjunkies chart too but couldn't read it. I don't think I'd buy a car from those guys. They're like the opposite of BAT. As little info presented as possible.

Maybe ZCD got a "deal" on a batch of wheel bearings. Counterfeit wheel bearings is a big problem, apparently. Regardless, they don't fit. Racer X's suggestion to take a measurement is a good one. The proper dimensions are in the Timken link. I looked for an article on counterfeit bearings and found a lot more than I thought I would. Here's a few, below. Besides counterfeits, off-spec. parts can go out the back door for resale. Overall, Tweeds should let ZCD know that the bearings didn't fit the spindle. He would save ZCD bad press and problems in the future and he might (should) get a refund or proper replacement parts. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2wg3EXqlKM https://www.machinedesign.com/mechanical-motion-systems/article/21835371/the-dangers-of-fake-bearings https://www.nskamericas.com/en/company/counterfeiting.html

The FSM shows the "Okay" range as pretty much across the groove. The notch starts at one side and as the chain wears it ends up at the other side. If you're in the middle, you can't make it better. And I think you're still in the "1" hole, see picture. Your engine seems to be in good shape. Almost disappointing, nothing to work on. Something will crop up...

The 78 ignition module had the same functionality as the ZX ignition module. So your swap was not really an upgrade, it was just a swap, assuming that both worked as they were supposed to. heyitsrama's thread kind of speaks for itself I think. I've never used a ZX distributor myself. But the aftermarket ZX modules are known to be of questionable quality. People get bad ones new. You can find posts about them around the internet.

How is a 72 quarter different from a 76 quarter? I don't know. Might be that it was in a rear ender sandwich in the past. Whatever it was, it's just another parts car now.

It does have the 6400 RPM redline tachometer also. A 280Z part. It's a messy car.

The VIN of the BAT listing 76 I showed is lower than the VIN of the blue car in question. So the blue eBay Beverly Hills turd should have been created after the nice BAT 76. Therefore, a 76 or later. Are we all looking at the same numbers and posts (things get squirrelly here at times)? Edit - actually I see that the VINs don't seem to accumulate over the years. Looks like they reset each year? Why? So, the VIN is not actually helpful in determining year. But the rest of the car looks 76 to me. Who moves the fusible link terminals over with an engine swap? And the AC solenoids (magnet valves). Here's a 72 - HLS3051114 https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-152/

Just had a similar problem in a separate thread. Maybe there's a batch of bad ZX modules out there. The 78 ignition module is about identical to the ZX module design. Current limiting, etc. The tach shouldn't see a difference.

If you gave them the P90 head code they would have sent you an L28 EFI gasket. If you told them you needed 240Z headers, maybe not. Maybe you have order details, or maybe they do. Good to know. I don't know, really, which mismatch might cause a leak. Anyway, you should never have intake vacuum leaks. So, you should focus on that first, because if you tune around it, you'll have to start over when you fix the leak later.

Should have posted the link to your high idle thread. Don't remember the details. It sounds like you might have a gasket mismatch problem. The P90 has injector notches. You didn't mention if you used an L24 intake gasket or an L28 gasket. Found it -

I don't know if this means anything and I'm not insinuating (purposefully, although it is there) but it's weird that the ZCD kit is so inexpensive. The OReilly parts would be 2x13 and 2x15 for a full set of National bearings. 26 + 30 = $56. ZCD's full set is just $39 for Timken bearings. Something seems off. Don't know, just saying... p.s. and I didn't include the seals. About $7 for the inexpensive ones. $63 total for an OReilly kit.

This 76 is HLS30298225. I'll bet they don't have a title for it. Dragged from a field, pressure-washed, pictures taken and posted. Send us the money. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-38/

I didn't even read the words and numbers I just looked at the pictures and thought it was a 76 280Z with 240Z bumpers. The engine bay looks just like mine. And it has two fusible link covers, I think 75 only had one. But it does have the more primitive center console. Mine had/has the padded upholstered hinged lid. The Beverly Hills guys don't put much effort in to getting their cars sold. They should know what people want to know but they don't show it.

How did you break a "bearing" (what actually broke?) by torqueing down the spindle nut? You should be able to put everything together by hand, almost to the point of even setting the nut if you have strong fingers. No need for force, except for removing the races from the hub. To grannyknot's point, if you use the outer race that came with the bearing you could just put it back the way you took it apart, on the inboard side, then use the new matched bearing and race on the nut side. But you don't want to use a different outer race with a new bearing. Sometimes parts just don't fit. I had to chisel a new pilot bushing out of my crankshaft after I got it halfway inserted. It was just too big. The replacement fit just fine.

It's a hand press fit but it's still a very close fit. A gouge might be enough to screw things up. Might be that you just have a + size spindle and/or a - tolerance bearing. A little work with a scotch brite pad might be enough to size it down. Good luck. Welcome, as others have said, to old car world.

Any part numbers on the bearings? Should be stamped on the edge of the race. Those bearings are very common. No need to go to a specialty shop like ZCD. OReilly Auto is fine, then you can swap them out easily if they don't fit, even if they're greasy. Too late now, I just mention that to make you feel bad. 💀 That bearing inner race should slide easily down to its seat at the base of that spindle (proper word for it). Clean the grease off and look for a burr or lip on the spindle. The bearing really should be just a hand press fit, no hammering/tapping or force required at all. Nobody checks the fit before they install the bearings and the seal but we all should. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/national-2929/wheel-bearings-hub-assy-seals-25107/bearings-and-seals-25072/wheel-bearing-12839/5426c6f5d17c/national-tapered-bearing-set/a2/2552840/1974/nissan/260z?q=wheel+bearing&pos=3 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/national-2929/wheel-bearings-hub-assy-seals-25107/bearings-and-seals-25072/wheel-bearing-12839/5426c6f5d17c/national-tapered-bearing-set/a6/2552881/1974/nissan/260z?q=wheel+bearing&pos=4

The unloved middle child. Buy it and drive it. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-40/

Lots of blue on this one. LS modified with other power handling accessories. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-146/

Another orange. Tastefully refurbished, I'd say, but not to a completely stock look. Has a leather covered dash. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-156/

Muchas gracias, amigo.

The blue car was on eBay, from Beverly Hills Garage. How did you get the BaT notification if you didn't submit a car? It's early (kind of) here and I'm low on caffeine. No comprende.

You want to see if the diaphragm inside the vacuum advance canister has a hole in it. You can suck on the hose nipple to be sure. Also, it's not a bad idea to remove the cap and make sure the vacuum advance is free to move. They tend to get rusted bearings and lock up.

You're selling a car?

The gauges are adjustable for better race viewing. I see exposed gauges as becoming a thing in the future. The glove box door survived, which is nice.