tlorber

This site describes the differences in the various motors-particularly the heads. You might as well do some research and get the one you want rather than wishing you had later on. My '73 has a 280zx motor in it from when I bought it that was a Nissan remanufacture. It is a very tight motor, but has dished pistons and an N47 head. Not my wish list but good enough for now. http://datsunzgarage.com/

Nice job finding that one! Those are tough to track down. While this was not your problem, I can tell you that you'd benefit greatly from a newer (slightly larger) alternator with an internal regulator. This is a very common upgrade, costs about $65.00 with the Erwin adaptor plug, and works great-more juice in the system.

Well, I've got both a square port header, and a stock manifold from a '73 but I'm out in California. Not sure how much shipping would be. I just replaced my stock manifold (which DOES have the smog injectors etc.) with an MSA 6 into one. Other than having to grind the thick washers to compensate for the intake mani/header thickness difference I'm pretty happy with the fit and performance.

Darrel, the pics you show look like around a 1/4" difference in length between the pivot point and the bottom of the rod selector. I'm currently rebuilding an '82 5 speed (which has the spring loaded plastic bushing in the shifter) and wondering if my '73 4 speed shifter will fit. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Here is a tire size calculator. I believe the original size was 195 70 14 (someone here will correct if I'm wrong). This calculator will show you how to get to the same diameter/circumfrence. This will NOT account for width or offset. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

I've been going with 50% ATF and 50% 3 in 1 oil.

I would agree that easily reversible mods are ok. I would definitely say that rust and T-bone collisions trouble, plague, and torment a car.

Those broken bosses are pretty typical. I had the same condition and ground the entire choke boss down and used a piece of lucite and gorilla glue to make a new one to screw into. If the bosses are just cracked, I've found that ABS glue embedded with fiberglass strands (wrapping around the boss) works pretty well.

If you are running a pointless dizzy, there is no need for the ballast resistor.

"Only 2 things scare me, and one of them is Nuclear War". Austin Powers The other is understeer (I added that part). That's reason enough to put the sway bar in.

Urethane suspension parts (appx $300-$400) Electronic Dizzy (appx $80.00 if you're patient) Internally regulated alternator + conversion plug ($70.00). Make sure the carbs are tuned correctly. The curvature on the electronic dizzy will help the car pull a lot better, and the pointless ignition will give a better spark. The alternator will be more reliable, give more juice to all components, and headlights won't dim. This list can go on forever, but that's where I'd start. There is plenty to read about on this and other sites.

Welcome, Geoff. I can't help you with the Webers, but, where in LA are you located?

Ask him to take a picture of it. I saw a guy's manual Z once with a 160 in it (I believe he said it was from a Subaru) and it was visibly smaller than a 180. This should not be hard to confirm. If it IS a 160, personally I'd have the guy bring it back and give him back his cash. Then go sell it elsewhere.

Interesting. My 240 has a 8/73 date. I believe the VIN is 169371.

How about the squeegees that attach to the stainless trim on the door. Buying a pair of the metal/rubber combo that MIGHT fit for $200.00 is kind of rediculous.

Anyone know if he plans on making any other parts?

Por 15 is not a bad intermediary. If you're surface is clean its pretty resistant to chipping. A quart cost me $50.00. A gallon would probably be between double and triple that.

Since ZX's were so prevalent, it should not be that difficult to find a base. Many foreign auto wrecking yards should have one lying around.

I met a guy up on Mulholland today that shoots photos of cars. He took around 400 JCCS that are on his site. If you go to the September album and scroll to JCCS the Z pics kick in around page 6. Also in the September album you'll see the cars he shot today under "Supercar Sunday Mulholland" .The shots on the hill begin around page 6 as well. There were a lot of nice Porsches, Ferraris etc there-all authentic, no replicas. Oh and there was a Japanese beater as well. http://www.cncpics.com/main.php

Has anyone here done this rebuild themselves? I bought a 5 speed that will need one and was wondering how difficult it is?

Different lenses respond differently. I've used rubbing compound on my Lexus and they cleaned up pretty well. A friend has tried wet sanding and then polishing his BMW lenses and they still look like crap. Whatever you do, its probably a good idea to keep wax on them after polishing. This not only fills in the small pits, creating a clearer surface, but also retards (can I still say that word?) future oxidation.

FS5W71C is for the '80-'83 5 speed. At least that's what I plan on ordering a rebuild kit for. See link below: http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/manual_transmission_overhaul_kits/nissan_f5w71_overhaul_kit.html

On my Z the return lines to the tank are at a point before the fuel even gets to the carbs. The intent of the return line is so that if the needle valves are closed, the fuel bypasses the bowl and goes strait back to the tank. The overflow tubes in stock configuration run into the air cleaner box, so that any liquid fuel will drain in (presumably saturate the air filter) and ultimately be sucked into the motor. Mine are currently open to atmosphere, but I will be reconnecting them to the filter.

Wow, even the battery looks newer!

Bill, I'm reasonably confident that I've never begun a sentence with the following: "Sitting in the pool last night talking with my machinist,"