tlorber

I'm getting close to having the body and paint work done on my car, which is a late '73 240. The original color was 306 silver, though the existing color is quite a bit darker. I'd like to get back closer to the original, but with a little more metal flake in it for the depth. Any one have recommendations of colors you have used? Thanks.

Thanks for those pics. I wish I could have made it this year. Its amazing that all these cars I remember as a kid are not so prevalent anymore. One good thing about Japanese car owners...if these were Italian or German cars, the owners would have been packing up at the first sight of rain. It looks like everyone hung in there and had a great day.

Been there-done that but on a much larger scale. As long as you did not crack the paint these cars are excellent candidates for the painless dent removal. The metal is very thin on these cars.

Good luck with the car. Your description reminded me of a sign I once saw for a missing dog. It said something like "Missing...white/black mix, has only 3 legs, one eye is gone, left ear torn. Answers to 'Lucky'. Please call if you find him."

This is the same car. My cousin shot this at Laguna Seca a couple weeks ago. I know its not a Z, but its as close as I can find. Ron, are you running in Coronado this year?

I currently have my speakers sitting in front of the rear wheel wells. The speaker magnets hold them in place. I plan on building some enclosures that I will wrap in vinyl and aim in at about 45 degrees. They will stick to the fender well with neodymium magnets. These are much closer to the driver and will be easily removable. This location is much more audible than when I had the speakers mounted at the back end of the car.

Great clip. I think we should have a thread dedicated to Z clips, in the car, in front and behind. I plan on getting a video camera soon and I'll contribute.

The only way you would be able to adjust them is 1) have an adjustable TC Rod (that Techno Toy one looks cool and I may get one at some point) and 2) you'd have to adjust/reverse your LCA bushings. The control arms pivot in one plane and are not meant to move fore and aft. I can't remember if the thicker one is up front or in the rear.

Are you sure there are no air leaks between the intake manifolds and the head?

Smokin' deal! I find it interesting that the old woman had sold the car to her gardener, who couldn't drive it since he had no license. I'm just curious how he got around to his jobs. None of these bus drivers ever let me on with my lawn mower. I also thought the ebay questions were funny. One of them asked "Does it catch fire often or is it a one time thing? I only have one fire extinguisher"

There is a guy at Datsunparts.com that is either making or has made new drums for sale. Most of it is roadster stuff but there are some Z items. You might want to check his site for pricing.

You should look into the internally regulated alternator along with Dave's plug (this whole thread is starting to sound like a plug for Dave). This topic is discussed significantly on this site. My cost all in was around $60.00. This bypasses the old mechanical VR and provides a more stable, higher output. It is a simple bolt on, completely reversible, and takes about a half hour once you have the parts.

Mjr45 sorry for the delay in getting back. I would NOT use the foam carpet padding. I agree with you that it would crumble after a while. The other type of padding looks like old string,fabric and other stuff amalgamated together. This stuff is somewhat fire resistant but not fireproof.

I think Glenn Beck would like the car. You should send him a picture.

I've been using carpet padding to replace the jute inside the car. I also backed the hard plastic interior panels with it to reduce noise and heat transfer.

So after 4 months of repair work, I was finally able to the the car out on some canyon roads this morning. Granted, it has the face only a mother could love, but at least it is drivable. Now onto removing fender and door dents before prepping for new paint.

On my '73 I have an electric fuel pump on my car that was on when I got it. I also have an N 47 head and the pump is mounted on the right front fender. It is currently powered off the distributor circuit (vampire tap near the ballast resistor) which I'm not crazy about. I believe there is a circuit near the glove box that is heated up with the ignition switch. I plan on tying into this with a manual kill switch and a relay so that the pump is powered directly off the battery. I've heard that it is better to push the fuel than pull it, and that the pump should be near the gas tank. My car is actually wired for an electric pump, but I have an internally regulated alternator with the zx plug. Rather than risking a conflict I think I'll keep the pump where it is and just reroute the circuitry. Keep in mind that your wiring may differ.

Also check the cable where it connects to the throttle linkage bar (just under the hood latch). Sometimes the ball at the end can dance around and the cable can get tighter. I twisted a wire around mine so that it stays in the detente.

I think it also depends upon how long it has been since the car was last registered. I checked with AAA on a car I wanted to buy. I knew the car had not had tags for at least 9 years. The lady there checked in the DMV system and the car was no longer in. She said to just get the bill of sale and present it when I want to get the car registered. If and when I ever do, I'll probably have to take it to a highway patrol station so that they can inspect its roadworthiness, but I don't anticipate any large fees for it.

I remember the good old days...when blowing a tranny meant that you had car trouble!

If you you buy a used tranny, you should get a rebuild kit online (appx $120.00) and go through the tranny before installing it. That way you know you are done with it.

First make sure your breaks are in good shape. It sounds like you will need a new rear brake cylinder. Make sure the other calipers are functional and bleed the system. (Your clutch will probably need the same). Make sure the suspension bushings are in good condition as well. 38 year year old rubber tends to get dry and crusty-many here have replaced with urethane. While you have suspension apart it would be a good time to check springs and struts. Many people with '73's swap out the carbs for earlier ones. Other than that and new fluids in the car, start driving it.

Other than pinging, what are symptoms of too much total advance?

Horseman, I bought a bunch of parts from a guy- front bumper + supports + rubber insulators, rear bumper (just because) grill, hood + hinges and a couple of other pieces for $450.00. I believe we accounted for the hood at around $150.00 and it is in good shape i.e. no dents at the front end. There was a small ding in the middle of the flat part which was easy to remove with a dinging spoon. Most of the hoods I have come across have had damage in the front. Prices have been between $50.00-$250.00. Before buying a hood you need to see this video. I'm sure this guy makes it look easier than it is, but you might at least consider this procedure.

Beginning of Rally Early June Early July Mid July OK so I've been limping along with the repairs on my car. So far I've replaced the following: -Front Cross Member -Left side Lower Control Arm -Lower radiator support (drilled out from another car and welded in to this one) -Right fender, headlight scoop, headlight bucket -Hood -Grill -Bumper + supports waiting to go on -Windshield needs to be installed. Car should be drivable within the next few weeks, which I'm really looking forward to.