korg_geek

I'm currently selling one of my Datsuns on collector car trader and a few other online/magazine sites and I've run into the following quandery: A man who runs a vintage car dealership offers me the asking price (or MORE than the asking price) for the car, and says that the buyer will be sending me a check directly. Sounds simple enough, right? Only the guy wants to send me a refund bank check that he got from some other transaction, so it'll be about $5,000 MORE than what the car is being sold for, so they want a refund check from my bank account for the balance. This is the part where I told the dealer to go to hell unless he showed up with cash in a briefcase. For those of us selling cars (especially beloved cars) to others, be wary of offers that are too good to be true. I've been reading recently about a number of people who fall for this scam: as it turns out, the cashier's check they send you is an excellent counterfeit, and by the time your bank finds out (6-8 weeks later), you've sent the guy 5 grand of real money, while you've lost it, plus probably your car. Its hard to turn down money, especially when you think you're getting a much better deal than the other guy. Just make sure he's legit - and your check is definitely REAL - before signing anything over.

I'm Brett. I've been a member for a year and still haven't done this thing. I'm a 22 year-old graduate student in international relations, who's lived in Washington for some 18 years now, and will never live anywhere else. I myself have two girlfriends as well: 1.) Almost restored 1973 240Z 2.) 2001 Audi TT Since putting in a Pertronix Ignitor and a Fireball coil, I'm happy to report that my Z is much, much faster

Am I crazy, or are these just Opel GTs? I don't think I'm crazy. Did anyone else realize this?

Hi gang, I just drove the Z 2000 miles in two days under a fairly heavy load (try about 700 pounds of baggage) and it performed excellently, I'm proud to say. Only problem is, I have a slight clanking from my engine when it runs now. I'm assuming its my valve clearances since that's what it sounds like. Does anyone have any good tips as to how to adjust the distances the easiest? Like most things, I know most people have their own little trick; I've never done this before, so I'm looking for some good information. Thanks a lot!

Ferrari all the way. They're obviously entering a second rennaissance with the 575 Maranello and the new 420 modena. Not to mention the crazy Enzo (although I'm not sure Enzo himself would approve). They tried building a 12 cylinder Zcar in the 70s (the daytona) and then went full-bore into producing Magnum PI cars in the 80s (the gts line). For about 20 years I wasn't sure what they were thinking, but they're starting to make some absolute works of art. Sooner or later, they're going to come out with a model as exclusive as an F50 that will be the new 1962 250 GTO. As for Nissan, back in 1973 they'd get my vote. As for now, anyone who votes for Nissan hasn't seen what they did to the Skyline. Anyone SEEN the R35? My only hope is that it tanks so bad that they get rid of those Renault engineers and start from scratch.

Ah, found it. The green/white wire from the run side of the ignition was frayed at the end. Put on new clips and started her up. She hasn't sounded this good in a long, long time. :classic:

Well, the good news is that after reconnecting my ballast resistor I have ignition. The bad part is, the engine only runs when the key is held in the start position. I'm assuming I've miswired something, although I thought it was looking pretty snappy. Is something mis-wired with the ignition switch, so that it doesn't continue firing when its not in the ignition position?

Hmmm, ballast resistor is trickier, since I read that you could just subvert the resistor and not use it. The only idea I got tonight was to hook up the resistor again, so that's what I'm going to try tomorrow morning. I'm pretty sure I installed the ignition correctly... since it involves two screws.... At least I hope I did.

Since I last drove my car, I put in new spark plugs, a Pertronix igniton, Pertronix flame thrower coil and a voltage regulator. THe plug wires are brand-new NGK. Now my car turns over and that's about it. I checked the polarity, tightened all the screws, made sure there were no loose wires, etc. Since the Pertronix coil doesn't have long enough wires, I got some 14 gauge primary wire and some waterproof crimps and added 8 inches of length. I'm not an electrical genius but I think all my connections are sound. So what could be preventing it starting? Anyone have any thoughts?

OK, i figured it out. Now I just need to make the damn cables nine inches longer....

I took the cap and rotor off, along with the points, of my old distributor in my 240, and this is what I'm looking at now. While the little instructions book that came with my Pertronix ignitor talks about simply slipping the wires out of the dizzy, i don't really see how that's possible. Can anyone help me out? There's no socket or hole or anything that the wires can run out of. Where am I supposed to thread these wires out of the distributor to get to the coil? Am I missing something?