Terrapin Z

Kira, Here is some pics of the A/C controller I have. It looks different than one I see on Ebay right now. It could be aftermarket. Perhaps someone here on the forum could chime in on that. It came out of a 71 I found at the junkyard. I thought it was a good piece to snag as I don't find many cars with A/C in them.

Hi Kira, I have parted a 72 and 2 73's and a 74 so I have a few parts around. I think I can help you with a few things. I have some choke knobs, I picked up a A/C control unit at a Junk yard so I am not sure how well it works but is moves freely and make the tick (switch) sound when the knob is turned. I should have a good hatch strut as well. I have some SU's 4 and 3 screw but either would need servicing. I can get some pics to you if interested. Let me know, TZ

It also looks like the plastic friction pads are cracked and broken. I bought my early knob set from you Steve. (I thought they looked off in the bay ad) It will be interesting to see if it sells, and for how much.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/datsun-240Z-series-1-choke-throttle-cable-assembly-new-nos-/301849145784?hash=item46479c71b8:g:zrYAAOSwCypWmcdu&vxp=mtr Only $1850 or best offer. (Not mine, I just ran across it.)

03492 for sale in OR, East of Salem. Looks pretty rusty and has a spun crank bearing. http://salem.craigslist.org/pts/5280971074.html

I looked at this car too, as a car to part out. It looked to me like there was a lot more missing or bad than just the quarter. I passed on it. If you are looking for a project I have a 73 in a more complete state but would still need some work. You could still get this one and use parts off of it. PM if interested. I am in Rochester (WA not NY)

Looks like there is an 84 in TN (gas) $100.00 http://www.CharliesUsedAutoParts.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi

Might be a far stretch but the differential mounting isolator will make a clunking noise if the rubber has separated. The sound might travel through the car metal to make it seam like it is coming from the shock tower. It is hard to tell just by looking at it but if you push up on the front of the differential by the drive shaft it should not lift apart at the rubber isolator. kind of a common thing to separate. Worth checking out if you haven't already. Mine was split. I had a clunk.

There just happens to be another CL seller with the RHD dash, pedal box, and wiper set up selling at the same time. Just coincidence from what I understand. The seller I bought from said he offered the RHD parts guy a dash cap but no sale. Ironically one the extra pieces I ended up with was the RHD dash cap, Which would be needed if one were to purchase the RHD parts form seller number 2. You are correct about the bumpers, they came off a 72 roller I found in a front yard near Napavine a few years back.

I ended up with that bunch of CL parts. The guy had a RHD Fairlady he had sold for 21K and for some reason the buyer didn't want the parts. This seller just wanted is all out of the garage. I ended up with a lot more than was in the pictures. Well worth the $ and drive up to Bellevue. The throttle piece had the cable but not the knob. I just saw a complete choke/throttle on Ebay sold for $350

My parts car has that pan. I think it is a Canadian car as it had no evep. tank. It is a 7/70. #9885 E31 block.

That really sucks, that is a nice car. I understand your reward completely. I know this is too late now, but perhaps for others. A fuel cut off switch at the tank works great. Sure they steal your car but only get 6 blocks and it dies. they can't restart and then bail. You get your car back with some break in damage and a hot wire, but you still have your car. They would have to be top notch thieves if they come and tow truck your car away. Thats serious planning!! I wish you the best of luck in the recovery Scott.

I have one from a 70 if you are looking for a proper fit.

I have just pulled the dash out of my 70 parts car. Should be the same bracket. I hope these help you out.

She is dusty and dirty and has not run for quite a while. But..... She fired up with little effort, and settled into a nice idle. Looking forward to putting on some miles this year. She turns 45 this year. I hope this is a great year for all the Z's out there.

I haven't been on here for a while but have a 70 I intend to post in the classifieds for a part out. I still have the pedal box if you are interested Glassguy.

Those look like possible options to try Namerow and Blue. Seeing how I am not in it for any real $ I might just give the sawdust epoxy a go and see how it turns out. I'm in no big rush to get this done. Originally I was thinking of adding some wood stain to the epoxy. I am not sure how that would react together chemically. The sawdust shouldn't have any effect on the epoxy in that sense. Now I need to find some dark cherry wood or some deep mahogany to cut up and make sawdust out of.

Thanks for the offers Jim and Jim. I have a 72 wheel that is an easier clean up. I was just trying to find out if this S1 was even fixable to the point where it look proper, not necessarily a show piece. I just hadn't seen any posts about fixing any crack in the "wood" part. Seems to me like zKars Jim said big $ and a lot of work to make it look right. Fortunately, I am not in it much so it might just end up on Ebay and the the bidders decide what it is worth. Seriously though, has anyone attempted a repair like this, even just a small outer rim crack? Just curious now.

I did a bunch of searches using different text and could not find any threads regarding repairing cracked "wood" on the steering wheel. I have a series 1 wheel and when I removed the cheesy wheel cover I found these cracks. My thought was to fill them with some stained epoxy. I am just not sure how that would work out especially the the spoke meets the "wood". It looks like the rust goes under the "wood" and I expect would keep rusting and splitting the connection. I saw a lot of posts for cleaning the "wood" and repainting the spokes. Just no repairs for this. Any input would be great. Thanks

Duh I forgot the link http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/2380761313.html

Saw this the other day and asked what the vin was. 19K is a bit steep but hey "no rust" and look at those mudflaps:D

Another one....... http://stlouis.craigslist.org/atq/1813582563.html

I just saw those as well. they are on C/L with some saab signs http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/clt/1875645283.html

When I was looking for different ratios for the rear end I found this site helpful. http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html There is some 5 speed id charts on the bottom of the page. Good luck

The best place to start, Get the brakes Steering and suspension working right first. Then the run-ability, and then cosmetics. IMHO Welcome to the forums, lots of good info here. I sure learned a lot. The "clubs" button on the bar up top has a Seattle club and a couple in Portland.