Terrapin Z

So it looks like I have about ten 8 blade and only four 7 blade fans. Seems to me I have an 8 blade in my 70 with a stock radiator and a metal shroud. Works well. I will PM the pictures and discuss a possible transaction there.

I'll look through my bin, and send some pictures. It wont be until after work today though. Do you need the clutch? or just the blades?

I don't see to many "drive" posts on the forum, it seems to be more technical. I thought I might add a post from a recent ZCCW drive. We rent out Maryhill Loops Rd. and drive up and down all day with no worries of cars coming the other way or the like. A fun weekend for sure. https://www.maryhillmuseum.org/outside/historic-maryhill-loops-road Skate boarder's fly down and cars fly up. Interesting story about the origin it in the post above. Here are a few pic's and one video from the weekend. Out there having a blast in my 6/70 driver. We normally only have one car at time, but I talked the officers into letting me follow the other early (71) S30 up the road for a video shot. Reuel and I going up.mov

Those relay kits usually have another in line fuse (blade type) between the battery and the relays.

I have DI's headlight and rear light harnesses. Both work great. H4's in the front and the rear kit really brightens up the sides and tails. I had heard he stopped making them and now MSA carries similar harness kits.

I just have to hold out on mine til you big time sellers run out of stock, so I can get a sale or two lol🤣

I have a bunch of seven blade fans if you end up needing to source one.

The ad is gone now.

The seller does say to email him through CL but to include your phone number for him to call or text you. For any questions, comments or concerns.

That would figure, scammers are all over. I was not looking to buy, but how does the scam work on CL? Normally I would go there and pay cash on delivery. If it is not right I walk away. Do they ask for a deposit, and then disappear? FB scams seem easy to spot, "pay me and I'll send the part" NOT!!

71 240Z near Bend OR. on CL https://bend.craigslist.org/cto/d/bend-1971-datsun-240z-manual/7754666674.html

2.83" long outside to outside .05" diameter

I still have the one circled in green, The other one was sold further back in this thread. It is dirty but still feels strong, I have a 240Z so I use different springs.

CO I think the OP might be referring to the hi-lo switch clicker, maybe?? Lost the little nubbin part?

This one is listed for $250 obo in the classified section. 77-78 completely rebuilt.

Post 90 page 8

WOOO HOOO!!! Congrats!!!

My money is on the red wire in the dizzy. Grounded.

https://www.bczregistry.com

I don't like the look of the red wire attached to the points the metal part there is grounded, the there is a sandwich of fiber washers and the wire should not touch the middle plate. When the points are open there should be no ground contact through the moving part of the points to the terminal through the red wire to where the black wire goes on the flat terminal. I still also suggest using a plug wire like off Number 6 with an old plug in it directly from the coil wire hole (well seated). then rest the metal part of the plug against the head. The spark should jump the plug gap when working correctly.

I know it seems a simple thing but make sure the coil wire is going all the way into the coil. The rubber cap can slip down when removing and if you don't reseat it it will not make the connection. Pull the cap back and confirm the two metal bits are contacting fully. Then check spark. You can also take one of the plug leads and put it in the coil hole again seated, then put a plug in the other end and rest the plug on the head, crank it and check for spark. If you do have a bad coil wire it will give you another confirmation the wires are is or isn't the problem.

That one you linked to at ZCD is too small for the hatch lock. It is for the early Series One fuel door latch. Apparently ZCD didn't offer one my bad ^^ I tried MSA and they list one but it is out of stock. (discontinued, same at Nissan) I do have this one, as you can see it is the largest clip on the car. A little clean up needed.

Second line in my post. The motor and transmission are rubber mounted.

CPM shows all the same part number for the clip 240-280 Part number 96809-19700 = discontinued I have some used ones, but the ZCD one should work fine too.

Well BC is out of range for me. There is a great group of Z peeps in the BC Z car club. Perhaps search them out. My thoughts were that I don't see a chassis ground off your battery. Negative should go to that bolt in the firewall behind the battery. Cleaned up of course. Also can you confirm the loss of ground when opening the points? a lot of time the wire is not in the isolator connector and is grounded out there. Third is the coil wire metal clip getting all the way down to the metal in the distributor. Sometimes the cap keeps it up too high to make contact. These have been basic common problems I see in this type of set up. The vid you posted is what we all expect to find in an old barn find car. A simple clean up and it works just fine. Points are very basic and have been around for a long time. Electronic ignition from this era was far worse to get working. IMHO. You can gap point with a matchbook and a nail file