St.stephen

Mr. Newbe, Congrats on getting into the hobby! Honestly I would need to see some pictures to accurately give you some guidance on what you need to do however if we were going on the fact that your floors were a total loss you can do the following: www.zparts.com (motorsport auto) has replacement floor kits available as well as a few others. I don't have the other links handy at the moment. The premium kit is a little over 300 bucks and the not premium kit is about 149. Depending on how bad your floors are, and what you want will determine what kit you get. That support under the floor is not the frame rail. I repeat is not the frame rail. It merely is a support underneath the bottom of the floor. If you look it stops about 3/4 of the way down the floor. This support only ties into the frame rail cradle and you can see where it ties into by removing the sound deadening material on the drivers toe board and looking jsut left of the gas and brake pedals. you will two rows of spot welds holding the toe board to the frame rail cradle. If your car need frame rails (in the engine compartment, you will know) Honestly if you are getting into this project time to do it the right way. If the floors are a total then cut out all rotted metal. It's going to be a scary sight. when the cutting stops. I prefer to use an air driven cutter, similar to a large dremel if you will. A cutting torch works well, however rusted metal does not cut clean. It curls and throws sparks. My current car has the driver and passenger sides cut out from the toe boards to the seat mounts. If you can manage it, try not to remove the seat mounts. Not only is it a little difficult to get the mounts in correctly to the new floors, it gives you something more to weld the floors too. I suggest mig welding as it is easiest and produces great results for the guage metal you working with. Once your rotted metal has been removed and all edges smoothed, it;s time to fit the floor it. It's important to remove all the rust as you need solid metal to weld to. The kit will have the floor support already spot welded to the bottom. I cut notches in my floor where the support is so it will fit over what was left of the support coming from the frame rail cradle. I had to reconstruct the toe board on the driver side and then fit the floor. From there it's bend and shape until they fit snugly and then weld them in. My kit took has taken some work to get it in, however all of them have. They say that the floors do not have to be welded solidly, a half inch bead every inch is enough. You make the call. If welding it solidly is overkill than call me overkill. I want no water ever rusting my car again. Upon getting all the welding done now it;s time to seal all the seams with something like 3M body sealer. This is very important and you need to do it inside and underneath. Once that is dry I would treat the new floors inside and underneath with POR-15 www.por15.com and then paint with a topcoat. reapply your sound deadening material and conitue to drive your new rust free floor Z! I'm sure you have many many more questions and I just breezed threw that so feel free to drop me an email if you have any further questions

337 units for this car. I thought they were even rarer than that. I would have one in a second. As much as I love Z's this car really has always caught my fancy and the price tag does not surprise me at all. Am I correct in seeing that the reason toyota did not go forward with full production was because Datsun had the 240 and toyota did not want to go head to head in the GT market at the time? They preferred to go with the passenger market. I do collect many of the early and mid 70's guys magazines for the car ads and I don;t recall Toyota really entering the sports car market until somewhere around 76 with the celica GT. Even mazda stepped up with the RX4 then!

GR8FLZED....I love it!!! The boys brought me so much joy!! I'm so glad I taped those last few years and still continue to do so. Other than my Z car and flying airplanes I manage to see about 120 concerts a year and tape most of what I see. my home page lists most of what I have on analog, CDR, DAT and SHN.

I must be the only one this was easy for. Removing the rubber was relatively easy. Put the control arm in your vice and slightly heat the rubber. Enough so that the inside metal portion of the bushing is easily moved back and forth. What you need to do is the get the inside of the portion to slide out enough to get in a pair of vice grips. I then turned it back and forth clockwise and counterclockwise until I tore the rubber holding the inside and outside "race" together. I then tossed that part aside and took a swill of my ice cold becks. Step two, can be done two ways. heat the outside of the control arm where the bushing is pressed and use a bearing driver that is the same diameter as the outside of the bushing. One of mine tapped right out with a few well placed blows. To get the other three out I had insert the hacksaw through the hole and cut a nice groove in the bushing (after the rubber center is out). YOu do not want to cut all the way through!!!!!!!!!!!!! A nice saw curf if you will. I used a sharp punch and hammer to start with, however the trick is to get the bushing to start bending in to resemble the shape of a ">)" I hope that made some sort of sense. I need a darn scanner!

Check out my homepage. May be some things of intereset to you :classic:

great idea and concept. Who did the programming, developing and testing for the site? I have to ask, I am a sytems analyst for a living

trackteam...where are you located???

St.stephen....with a rose.. in and out of the garden he goes country garden in the wind and the rain whereever he goes the people all complain

Jeff.. I live in Northwestern New Jersey so tack on maybe 600 miles that 60 estimate and we are all set. The company has an address of a PO box in Morristown NJ however the physical store is in Whippany. Equally about a 25-35 minute drive for me. As for commenting on the product, I still have to pick up my supplies from them. I have heard nothing but fantastic things and if what they say is true, following their steps I will be doing my entire undercarriage, and engine compartment with this stuff. When I called the company they stated that the tie-coat primer is to be applied to the cured POR-15 which is very sandable and resistant to lacquer, enamels and two part finish topcoats. They sell their own host of topcoats in a myriad of colors. Check out the site and order your free catalog. One quart of POR-15 covers 96 square feet and one pint will do 12. A little goes a long way

I had to read your post 3 times to be sure I was understanding what I was reading. As much as I am an advocate of saving every Z, I am a huge advocate of doing it right. Do yourself a favor and take some time to fix the car the right way before that things folds up like a recliner. Granted if you want to use cheap, backyard methods to fix your rust that's fine.....Cheap backyard methods to fix STRUCTURAL damage will earn you a view out of a hospital window. Frame rail and floor pan kits are readily available and if you cannot install them yourself there are a plethora of places that would fix the car correctly. The major purpose being safety, not to mention preservation of your ride.

I make out like a champ with this company. I only 15 minutes from the store

alordzot..... If you even consider anything other than obtaining a floor kit and doing it right, name your price and I will take the car off your hands!!!! Honestly, it's time to disassemble the car and get ready to get your hands dirty. If the floors are no longer, than I can guarantee there is other cancer lurking underneath that undercoating up front. Very thoroughly check the frame rails, rad support, toe boards, underneath the battery tray, inner fender wells, and where the compression rod meets the frame rail. These are almost identical rust spots on any Z car. If you find that your car ONLY needs floors, start practicing your cartwheel skills!

mine should be self explanatory :classic:

coastguard....The hunt is on. I live in Norhthern Jersey so i am always looking in the tri-state area and since my live in girlfriend has put the limit right now on only having three Z's I can certainly find you one cause I can't have any more. Beleive me, I am looking every single chance I get at Z cars for sale. I will email all leads I get!

coastguardZ. Honestly let me know your requirements and a price range. I come across a boatload of these cars some great, some fair and some that need help and I would be tickled to help you get a 240.

yeah it wasn't worth the time to go to court. Although acurately presented I probably could have won the case and made him look like a fool, however I just paid the ticket.

I got a demostration of speed ticket about 7 years ago in my first Z. 78 280 2+2. The light changed and stomped on it but tapered off at the speed limit and maintained it. He pulls me over and go through the motions and I'm like " I was doing the speed limit" he says "I don't like how you got there" 47 dollar ticket i saw that special too on MTV. Interesting how the two clowns were allowed to state that the driver was revoked and the 4 door had expired tags, yet they were driving anyway. I did see the Z at the end too!

I agree as I have heard the same sort of feedback. I have all three head models as well as a host of Z parts (i have owned 5 and raped many more from the salvage yards) so I'm looking for the best combinations for building my 260. I have the stock L26, but not the rear and trans so the dream of a numbers matching car for my tastes is shattered right now. Here's what I have so far: 1" lowered Tokico struts and springs 1" sway bar up front 7/8" in rear All urethane bushings New fenders Cross drilled rotors 4 piston calipors 72 Su's L28 from 78 2+2, L28 from 76 coupe or L26 E88, N42, and N47 heads New floors 4 core rad all new brake lines R180 and R200 rears 76 and 77 4 speeds, 78 2+2 5 speed So I am really looking to bolt together the best powerplant and driveline combination I can come up keeping the car relatively stock Z

what is the best head combination to run on a stock L28 with 72 Su's? is the N47 going to give me better emissions due to the exhaust liners or would the E88 be a better combination?

there is a buy it now prioce for 1600

gotta love the carpeted dash and the grand canyon cracks on top. It;s in better shape though body wise than my 78 2+2

Certainly nothing I would ever consider doing to a Z.

Right on, thanks alot guys!

Not to wizz in anyone's cheerios, however I have to throw a hissy!!!!! God I hate living in Jersey for this reason. Everyone seems to come across a Z car in a garage that is always a cream puff on the west coast. Meanwhile, I look at 100 hours worth of welding on every Z car I have owned to make structurally drivable. Congrats on your find though! Early model auto's are rather rare in a collectors sense and I'm sure the damb thing is a solid cream puff. grrrrrrrrrrrr...sorry to vent

Oh. I had replied with a huge troubleshooting list on tracking down the problem with his injection and was curious how it worked out.